Stain or Paint my pine shiplap
hkwan
6 years ago
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kootenaycapable
6 years agoRelated Discussions
pine and cedar t&g beadboard ... paint or stain?
Comments (1)The pine will bleed when it is painted unless you use a good primer that will seal. I used Zinsser 123 on the inside of a cabinet and I could still see the grain and knots. I then coved those areas with Zinsser BIN. I have 2 rooms with tongue and groove on the ceilings. The living room is vaulted and has beams also. I did the work on the boards. I sanded them, put on a clear coat of poly, let dry, lightly sand and another clear coat of poly. I choose oil poly because it will natually become darker, and they look very nice! Latex poly will not become darker. I like the depth of the look so much that I decided to put it on my dining room ceiling, instead of replacing the sheetrock. My carpenter delivered 36 16 ft boards for me to finish and then he put them up. It was worth all the extra work!...See Morestain vs paint pine door
Comments (4)Pine blotches when stained/dyed unless correctly pretreated. Matching the new color to an existing color is very difficult. After staining/dying, the door would need to be sanded lightly to knock off raised fibers in the wood. At least three coats of poly/varnish are recommended. Poly is very difficult to spot repair. Varnish(non poly varities) are easier. Primer and paint allows you to easily match an existing paint color if a sample of theb old color is available for matching. Paint is much longer lasting with less maintenance. Much easier to apply. Easier to spot repair....See MoreWhat size shiplap should I use for my kitchen?
Comments (16)Danielleg- I LOVE that you did the ceiling stained! That is going to be a fabulous kitchen. Novice - "They are .75 inch in depth which is the same as my mouldings but he says he can cut them down so they are only .5" in depth. Were your boards pre-primed? We are looking at the finger jointed pre-primed boards by Windsor One." Being a DIYer and having the thought myself, I am a little confused how he can cut it down to .5". I mean I guess he can plane every board down, but it needs to lap to be shiplap, you would either be planing off the overlap or the underlap. If the boards expand or contract in the humidity wont you risk seeing the drywall underneath if the laps are not there? Or is he planing off .12" from both the over and underlaps and leaving a very thin, weak piece. And then the follow up thought, how much is he charging you for that simple .25", because that seems like a lot of work, it may be cheaper to get all new door and window molding. Also, just from personal experience, I stay away from finger jointed. I used to work for a furniture manufacturer and we had huge issues with finger joints cracking and separating after 4 or 5 years. You can sometimes get OK quaility, but if there is a board option I always take it. And in this case the board option at HD and Lowes is so cheap I can not see how finger joints could possibly be cheaper. As far as pre-primed, I have never bought anything pre-primed and I am sure your builder knows better but just in case I will pass my major boo boo on to you so you don't make it. If you prime yourself and are working with knotted wood like pine, always prime the knots with a primer like BIN that is made for knots, especially if you are painting a light color like white. I learned this one the hard way on my nice bright white bathroom's, pine beadboard. I just finished re-priming and painting the entire thing last week. It looks great for about a year then the knots bleed through ;-(...See MoreCan I leave my pine porch ceiling stained and not sealed?
Comments (22)Thank you RES 3D. And everyone. I appreciate all of the feedback....even the things no one wants to hear. The spots are actually from sap. After the first board appeared spotted, I inspected them closer as I was moving along. I plan to bring everything I’ve learned straight to the paint store. Good thing is...I have a handy trim carpenter at my disposal. If it turns out to be a total bust, it’s still worth the tens of thousands we saved not having a builder and putting in a little elbow grease PS- I have a whole new respect for builders...and the construction market in general! We’ve encountered FABULOUS tradesmen along the way. This porch ceiling looks amazing so for now I plan to completely enjoy it before it’s possible demise!...See MoreUser
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