because it takes more time to ensure the half-tile drop pattern every other row is in proper alignment. In initial layout for the control lines, to more grid lines, and/or periodic checking. To do it absolutely right, you would install 2 sets of grid lines one way. One that you set the initial pattern to, and the second to set the half-tile drop pattern to that designates the brick/running-bond pattern overall. Also it can be more time consuming to cut the same number of cuts, but in more dimensions/sizes, which means more frequent measuring and setting of the wet saw cut width guage or snap cutter width guage. the latter is less of an issue when net-fitting to finished baseboards becasue they are all independently measured, but more of an issue if rough fitting to a wall that is going to be covered with base where you could make one setting for a wall and adjust it 1/8" here and there as neeeded depending on the previous cut for the standard install. time is money. more time is more money.

I read in another thread about taping tiles to a piece of cardboard. I think I'll try this over the weekend w/the running bond pattern I'm considering. Another reason I'm unsure is because most running bond seems to be done w/the brick-shaped tiles (subway tiles?) but I selected square tiles. paddytc: I didn't know about the bathroom rule of thumb but it makes sense to me. I feel like the BS and floor will compete visually if the patterns match even though the tiles do not. I want the BS to appear restful, not busy or competitive.

I don't think it is a problem. I think your eye travels into the room more readily than to the threshold. That being said, I know nothing about slate (except that I like it, especially w/ your brick), but 1+ inches seems like a decent size piece of tile. Is the concern because it is on the edge of the stairs? If it really bothers you, could you shift farther right, not centering three tiles, but increasing the visible piece presently at the left of your doorway to show a bit more? Could that eliminate your "finger"? Again, I really don't think it is a problem.

I briefly entertained a safe tile in a quiet slate, something I'd originally thought of for the floor. More traditional for this area. It was a medium gray with some golden tones shown in a flooring install sample at a tile shop. Then I asked to see if there was a sample board to see how it compared. It was ice blue! The tile stores seem to think this is no big deal, lol. No returns. After doing the rounds again, I bought a box of one of my old favorites. It's a terra cotta style that looks pretty much like this one but without the deco tile. My cabinets are a creamy raised panel. The grout would be a subtle gray like the picture. The size still worries me at 14 inches although it really doesn't look all that large on the small store floor installation. Laid out it is looking like an oversized tile. What would be your guess on this tile size? I don't care for this tile in the horizontal running bond in here. I'm struggling between a diamond pattern (the shop shows the tile this way) or a running bond on the diagonal (which seems to look good). I like cozy so don't feel the need is to expand the space by using a diamond. I simply enjoy that pattern. It's more a matter of it's effect on the style and feel of the kitchen for me, as well as the layout of my small rectangular kitchen with it being a 14 inch tile. How do you think the large terra cotta in a diamond pattern compared to a running bond on the diagonal would affect the style of a space? I was surprised to see this English country kitchen showing a terra cotta diamond pattern. I'd decided that seemed to be going French rather than English country. (I've also noticed Italian rooms using terra on the diagonal. This is an Italian tile.) Please share your styling observations!