How do you manage watering in large containers?
Jesse (SF Bay Area - 10A)
6 years ago
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tsugajunkie z5 SE WI ♱
6 years agoDave
6 years agoRelated Discussions
wicking water in large containers
Comments (9)My original plan was to use 2 wicks from each res. and spiral them upward halfway between the res. and the outside edge. The lower set to the bottom of the upper res., then the upper set to 2" below soil surface. The new plan is to run a 3rd wick from each res. to the outside within 1/2" of the burlap liner hopefully allowing it to aid in the process. Strawberry plants are shallow rooted so I will need to get water both to the top and the sides where they are planted in the holes. The distance between the sides of the buckets and the side of the barrel where the soil will be is only 6 1/2". The wicks will be at 1/2",3",and 5 1/2" from the outside edge. I'm hoping to run them 6" apart horizonally spiraling upward. The lower res. will water the lower half and the upper the top half. Thanks for your input. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. I'm open to suggestions and criticism. How else can I learn this stuff? I hope ya'll can understand this. I wish I could draw it. It is kind of hard for me to put into words. I been trying to word and type this for more than 30min. Bad typing skills didn't help. MJ...See MoreHow do you keep so many containers/jugs watered?
Comments (14)I've had to water a lot due to unusually high temperatures and no rain. April is usually damp around here. I have my pots all lined up with a width of 3 pots so I can maneuver around them. I grouped them in one big pile my first year and it was impossible to get to the middle! I found it's easiest to use a wand set on the soaker setting. I touch each lid with it to make sure the water gets into the holes. Sometimes I'll flood a container (oops) but it doesn't seem to effect the seedlings, the pots have good drainage holes. I've been moving the sprouted containers to the front of the line so I know to go easy with the water in that section. When the tops come off, I use a light misting spray on the babies. I give them a quick check on my lunch break for sproutage and can gauge whether or not they may need to be watered. If it's expected to be warm the following day with no rain, I usually give them a light watering whether they need it or not just as an assurance they don't dry out. I work so have to water in the evening. One thing you can be certain of, you don't 'forget' your containers when you have hundreds out there! It's definitely time consuming but I enjoy tending the pots so it doesn't feel like a chore caring for them. I love when all the tops come off, it's a breeze to do the watering. I'm so anxious to uncover my pots (173 have already sprouted!) but I have concerns that we might get a cold snap or rain storms being it's so early in the season....See MoreHow do you manage the moisture needs of potted sarracenia?
Comments (15)I'd say use kiddie pools in the summer and depending how many and what size pots you have, you can use anything from an inch or 2 in 4" pots, to 4-6" in gallon size pots. Also, for winter weather, they usually sell the plastic water pans that catch excess water for bigger planters so you can get one or a few of those and fill it with just a cm or 2 of water for winter so they can get some moisture. I would also check out the harder, heavy duty plastic planter bases that catch water they sell at lowes and home depot that come in terra cotta, stone or light cream colors and are a few inches high to keep just enough water in the pots in winter. I did contact the woman who works at cobra plants and she told me that their sarracenia stay out in very cold weather all winter and don't flinch as long as their is some available moisture. The thing that kills plants is the drying out when everything freezes, so they may need to be covered or insulated if they are outside in winter, but as long as temps stay above 20F the plants seem to do fine as long as there is some moisture. I hope that helps....See MoreThugs! How Do You Manage Yours?
Comments (21)Nell, are you talking about moving the clerodendrum and then keeping it in check by mowing? If so, it won't work. And if you leave any bits of root in the old spot, it will grow back there, too. I planted one...that's ONE clerodendrum last Summer. It has become a major pain in my butt. Clerodendrum b. sends out runners and forms new plants in the blink of an eye. Mowing it won't tame it. As a last resort I've started using RoundUp on any new clerodendrum sprouts that come up where I don't want them. But one hit with the stuff doesn't work...takes at least two sprays, about a week apart. It won't harm the larger parent plants you may want to keep as accents in a border or bed, but it gets rid of the escapees. My other thug is Monarda (bee balm). It isn't nearly as bad as clerodendrum b., but it's bad enough. Still...I can't bring myself to get rid of it because the foliage smells so delicious and the flowers are gorgeous. The runners are fairly easy to remove but it spreads faster than I'd like. Perilla has also been a thug in my garden, however the seedlings are easily removed as long as you get them when they're only an inch or two tall. Pretty plant, but boy! does is ever self-sow. RENEE...See MoreAlex (5 - Nebraska)
6 years agofawnridge (Ricky)
6 years agommauenn
6 years agoUser
6 years ago
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Jesse (SF Bay Area - 10A)Original Author