99% of the time mulch is a temporary condition. Because it decomposes and washes, it needs to be added to periodically. As it disintegrates, weeds begin to move in. It's better if intentional plants do the job of covering ground. I can't imagine mulch lasting 5 years on this slope. (Maybe a mulch blanket that is pinned to earth ...?) Were this mine, I would not want a row of pine trees at top and a mixture of shrubs/grasses on the remainder. To cover the whole bank with small, flowering trees/large shrubs could be done with a triple staggered row and would only require about 20 plants for that part of the planting. The in-between space could be hydroseeded with grass/wildflowers. Another tree/shrub that comes to mind as a good solution for this bank is Sumac. It's pretty, does not get to towering proportions, has beautiful fall color and forms groves so would easily establish its own "forest." Redbud Staghorn Sumac

The shrubs growing on the slope look that they have been there quite a while and seem to be growing straight up. (Sometimes, if there is a bend like an old-fashioned walking stick handle in the stem near to the ground, that bend can indicate that the land is slumping.) About the tree roots showing: there's not a great deal of topsoil from what I could see so the roots have probably spread out to forage for food and water. A number of tree species have suface roots - some quite gnarled and obvious. Think swamp cypress for a start. Unless the trees are very tall and your local prevailing winds are fierce or unpredictable you aren't likely to get windthrow. On a slope such as yours I'd be looking for grooves cut by runoff from the top as the precursor to shallow gullying - and that didn't seem to be happening. Personally, I wouldn't spend on 'posh plants' for such a slope. I'd ask for 'pioneer-type' shrubs - preferably native to your area. If you have a native plants nursery near you - pick their brains. Grasses, creepers, low-nutrient environment shrubs and sub-shrubs. That soil is obviously not rich - it hasn't been colonised by much at all. If you need clues and there are cuttings at the sides of your roads check there for what will establish and thrive and stay seemly. (No one needs a slope covered in fire risk weeds!) When you visit with the plant place/s ask for SPECIFIC guidance on how to plant up a steep slope. If it has a high clay content - let them know because it will change what they will advise. If there is any better soil available on your lot, and you can spare some - mix it in with the slope soil when planting but don't bother putting in fine compost. All that happens is the plants grow out to the limits of the top grade environment and then either sulk or die. Think about buying your reveg plants in 'root trainer' tubes rather than big cans or baggies. They'll be younger and better equipped to strike out, rootwise. Hear you when you say you're budget-constrained. See if you can legally collect native seedlings of suitable plants, grow them on, then plant out. Sometimes a neighbour can be a good source. Under the bird feeder, in a garden, can be another - but expect a lot of berry-producing plants ;-) And, as the slope is a bit of a challenge - could you devise a ladder to get you upslope for planting? Or a scaffoldiong arrangement. Something with wide enough treads so you don't end up with anguished feet!

We live on a very steep, but rocky hillside and a previous owner put various terraces on it. Since winter is coming, and to prevent that hillside from slipping, plant a lot of creeping rosemary. Rosemary is drought tolerant. Our house is on top of the slope, but you risk a ton of mud from that hill. Our entire 1.5 acres are covered with about 12 automatic drip stations, so everything gets water 3 x per week for about 45 minutes. Junipers, as ugly as they are also are good for erosion. We have many. Thinking about distilling some gin from their berries... NOT! Trees: Olives are drought tolerant as are figs (once established). Pomegranates seem fine with little water too. There is also some kind of burlap sand bag ropes that will help hold back mud and water. The house across the ravine from us has it on their big slope.

d keith, The idea of planting on a hill is both to prevent erosion, which is really important, and to look really nice. Full sun, zone 7, great for erosion, crape myrtle, buy more of them. They are wonderful, they have strong roots, you already have one there, and will provide a little bit of shade, which most plants will appreciate since you have sun all day. They will be on sale now, so buy more crape myrtles, they are anchors. Buy a chase tree, gorgeous blue flowers, no maintaince, drought tolerant, loves sun. Get at least one chaste tree. When you plant it, add some composted cow manure in the whole since you have clay, for the chaste tree. Evergreen magnolia is wonderful for a hill! Look for them at big box stores or nurseries now. Their roots spread out, and they grow great on hills. They are easy to care for, love sun and are evergreen. Get at least one of those, you will love the fragrant flowers in spring. The reason for the trees is important, they are the first line of defense against the pouring rain. It first hits the trees, they provide cover. Then you look for shrubs, a medium cover, like roses, which are wonderful and hardy, and also love the heat and sun. So buy some medium sized roses. You can use a soaker hose to water them. Also ornamental grasses are beautiful, and sort of medium size. Grasses need water though, so if you put out a soaker hose, include them in the path. The junipers are a wonderful suggestion also. there are ground cover junipers, you can plant them here and there, they are evergreen, which is good, they are ground covers, so they will also help the ground stay where it is. St. Johns Wart, sedum, ajunga, daylilies, little spirea shrubs, just a few suggestions as to some plants that you can plant around on the hill and will take fast. Good Luck to you.