Kind of odd I've bare rooted my Av's only to grow them with zero drainage holes AKA ceramic SWC's. My opinion, pot types for some plants don't matter. Coincidence ?: Often in the AV forum it is suggested to bare root and repot them from time to time as well (Six weeks, six months or six years? Who knows.) Bare rotting an AV to and from the same pot or a different pot is a bit different than repotting an EC as the pot size and type is going to be the same for the life of any of my AV's. Fact: Jungle cacti roots tend to grow more openly and loser and can be thread thin and needed where an Av can spare to loose some of it's finer roots. Jungle cacti roots like some extra space and don't enjoy being as root bound as an AV does. Consider a pot size two inches bigger or two inches deeper than what the size is now. Plastic or T. cotta or clay inner lined glazed ceramic outter the pot can be of any type as long as it has sufficient drainage. As your already familiar with terra cotta or plastic pots for your EC may as well use the same type. Assuming you have a very good draining soil/mix ready to repot your cacti the bare rotting of an AV is the same as bare rotting a EC Remove the entire plant and it's soil from the pot it's in now. JUST LIKE an AV you'll need to remove or pick away at older soil with fingers and a tool ( plastic coated wire, tooth pic or what ever the other guys use to remove old soil from roots as an example) remove as much ( ALL)all of the old soil as you can. Occasional light misting to help completely remove or quick dips in a small drip pan sized tank of water will help loosen older dryer soil for easier older soil removing. Your going to love a potting bench or table, but as you probably don't have one consider a flat surface area ample enough to repot. Easy as pie, or the space it takes to make the pie. A sink or table work area with and on a dry newspaper to absorb any excess water from misting, bowl screen and or tray to keep the area clean of old soil before it finds the trash barrel. Opps seems " looking up" soil for some plants can be confusing can't it ? Even though it might already be growing in a peat based soil. The normal jungle cacti can be better in a small sized orchid bark based soil. Fact: (again) for a jungle cati A good ( well prepared) bark based mix should be able to last any EC (A jungle type cacti) for several years. Even though bark based mix preferences may vary from one person to another would be a choice you have to make.

Miltassias are intergeneric hybrids of a Miltonia (a cool growing plant) with a Brassia (an intermediate growing plant). Well, like any orchid, they prefer to be exposed to natural light and in an environment like that of a greenhouse which holds in humidity Despite that fact, orchids can be grown in the house. Better if the plant was put in a sunny window (south or southeastern facing). OR under artificial light. But you need a full-spectrum light bulb. There are grow light bulbs which you can buy. Humidity is another thing. Misting helps, but you can create a micro-climate by putting the plant over a shallow tray filled with pebbles and water. But never let the plant touch or sit in this water. Usually grow trays have a grate over it. You can make your own grow tray by buying a piece of plastic grid used to cover overhead florescent office lights or a section of galvanized wire cloth. Any kind of grate that will elevate the plant from the tray of water. Yes, the do say that a plant should stay in its pot if it's turned upside down. You don't really have to tamp down that hard on the medium. The plant should be tamped in enough so that the plant doesn't wiggle or fall out. Most bark mixes do drain fairly fast. You have to water more frequently if the mix is mostly just fir bark. So-called phaleanopsis mixes have more stuff like perlite, fine charcoal and some ground peat in it to hold more moisture. You may want to look into that kind of stuff. There is also some mixes like Aussie Gold (expensive) which is fresh water dyatomite rock mixed with ground coir (coconut fiber), fine charcoal or fine black pumice sand etc. So many kinds of planting media. I'd avoid long strand sphagnum for your plant. Holds too much water too long. (unless you grow in a bright greenhouse in a clay pot.) Also, there is a choice of pots. A clay pot dries out very quickly. A plastic pot (with bark mixes) dries out more slowly. I usually put styrofoam plastic packing peanuts in the bottom of my pots when I repot. The peanuts allow drainage. Even when the plant is packed tight with moss or bark. Your plant requires fertilizer too. But if the plant isn't in an better environment like a dark room with a desk lamp for light, fertilizer won't help. Most if not all orchids require good quality light. When the plant shows signs of growing, then feed the plant with a balanced fertilizer (water soluble) stuff good for any houseplant. You don't need "orchid" food. As long as the fertilizer has the right amount of nitrogen, phosphorus and other trace elements. Hope this helps.

Many bromeliads grow just fine in "regular dirt" as long as it in not compacted and kept sopping wet. Many bromeliads are epiphytic. SOme (like Puya, Dyckia, Orthophytum, Neophytum, some others) are terrestrial and have roots that can readily absorb water and nutrients, but most are epiphytic and the function of the roots is more to anchor them either on a mount or in the dirt. In this case the plant absorbs water and nutrients through the leaves and through specialized cells inside the "vase" or "cup" or if it has a silvered appearance from the silvered areas which are also specialized cells for that purpose. If your other bromeliads "don't look so hot" they may not be getting needed moisture and humidity in the correct manner, or they may be getting the incorrect lighting for their species, or they may just be parent plants that have bloomed and are in natural decline. It would help to know what types you have.

Oh my goodness! Hello everyone! So sorry I was delayed:-(. It's been a rough week and thank goodness for you all here and my plants, or I would of slitted my throat. Life stinks at times, but then there is always good things to think of once you get through all the fog and see clrearly again:-0) Kemistry: That is the one scent that I could never explain! There is nothing quite like it and that is why I bought two. I actually use to get them at Logee's and would loose them constantly to disease. But I managed to talk my this nursery into selling unusual stuff and he has managed to pull it off. He is expanding to better things that can only be baought there and his way of thanking me was to give me them:-) If you should ever want one, let me know and I can either get you one or start cuttings. They are sooo easy to root! Rosey, like giving up cigarrettes for some people, those methods won't work for me..lol The only thing that will stop me from wanting to aquire any more is to feel overwhelmed with bugs, and thank goodness I think I know how to avoid them babies! Disease, another issue. I know not to get too much so that there is no room for them to breathe, let alone get light.lol I will always have a soft spot for weak and abused plants. Toni, YES, your fault. Remember when we talked and you said you sinned again? Well, I ran to Lowes that night and wondered if I might find something out of the ordinary, and I did. In fact, I blame Annie too..lol It was her that found some just like mine and encouraged me to get a good deal like she had. I even showed the store her post on getting the same plants for 2:50 and it worked.lol The blad stick I break into very small pieces. It's tree fern and the Hydroton is used for air space. It's great stuff. I can water my orchids all I want without fear of rot. Heck, I'll bet if you started a thread on your own about the new bunch of plants or sins that you have done, everyone will balme you too..lololol Hoping everyone is safe and happy tonight! Mike