Sources and recommendations for Rosa rugosa?
cranefire
6 years ago
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Source for rosa banksiae lutescens?
Comments (7)Hi. I found the double yellow variety at a local nursery, Swanson's. On the advice of another gardenwebber, I had sent an email to the trees/shrubs manager, inquiring as to its availability and he personally answered it in the affirmative. How's that for great customer service? I also received a kind offer from one of the resident experts here (she sent it directly to my email, so not sure if I should publicly thank her) so will soon some backups in case I manage to kill it off before getting it to my sister as well as more to give to her daughter (it's a second marriage) and even my own selfish self. I love gardenweb! Happily, Rain...See MoreQuestion about Rosa Rugosa Rubra
Comments (9)Another bit about rugosas in hot climates: Back in the 1980s, I was under the impression that they would not grow in hot climates, and certainly, they were not thriving for me. Then I visited Robert Basye in Texas, and he had huge, tree-like rugosas in his climate that regularly tops 100F. He said the secret was to graft them to 'Fortuniana' rootstock. I was already doing that with other roses, but had not tried putting R. rugosa or its hybrids on Fort. So I went home and tried it. Since then, they are easy roses to grow. Granted, Lakeland Florida is not "hot" by some standards -- we only reach 100F every 4-5 years. But we do have consistent heat -- often not a day with a high of less than 90 from June 1 through Sept. 30, and lots of days in the mid- to upper 90s, with high humidity (I suspect the humidity helps in this case). Yes, they do get stressed somewhat in mid-summer, but no worse than other classes of roses. And they flower pretty much continuously through the period. Ours are in all-day full sun. I've not tried afternoon shade. Now that we have chili thrips, they have become more challenging, since rugosas are so sensitive to sprays of any kind. But we've used soil drenches of imidacloprid, and at least for now, that works. We dread the day when the thrips become resistant, and while I like to rotate materials for that reason, with a rugosa, there's not much else one can use....See More??? about Rugosa's
Comments (7)Whether they prefer acid soil or not, I can tell you, here in the arid, desert south west with highly alkaline soil, highly alkaline water, not much winter to speak of, extreme heat and blazing, laser beam sun, rugosas of many types are chronically chlorotic. Most grow backwards, languishing until they finally just melt. Budded specimen seem to last longer and don't experience the chlorosis issues as terribly. If yours aren't showing chlorosis, I wouldn't worry about whether the soil is right or not. The way rugosa's flowering has been explained to me is that it is not really "repeat flowering." It has one, very long seasonal bloom which is why so many rugosa hybrids are once flowering. If the flowering doesn't extend far enough into the latter end of your season, I would more look to perhaps the feeding, what you're feeding, and climate differences. Milorganite is rated as 5-2-0. Fish emulsion is 5-2-2. Perhaps you're providing them with more nitrogen than they require? Where they are native, they flower their season with nothing other than what Nature provides. If your soil is fairly fertile, they may not require anything else. Just a thought. Kim...See MoreGrow Rugosa cultivar from seeds in the hips
Comments (5)The ol' soaking-the-seed "sink or float test" is a prime case of pervasive pseudo-science which has become so deeply entrenched within the "common knowledge" preconception of the public, that even many PROFESSIONAL horticultural authors (those with academic training) continue to peddle this nonsense within their publications. (To paraphrase a personally-modified version of my favorite adages: "If you repeat a lie often enough without challenging it, it eventually becomes doctrinal truth.") Essentially, this long-standing horticultural myth goes like this: When you soak your seeds overnight in a jar filled with fresh water (a form of 'scarification', to help initiate the process of softening an otherwise hard external seed coat, before sowing the seed), those seeds which sink to the bottom of the jar are presumably "viable", while those which float on the top of the water are considered "duds" (dead or infertile). Let me say this, here, and now: This is utter hogwash, because it blatantly ignores the vast diversity of evolutionary adaptations to seed structures. That is to say - that not all seeds (from various plant families/genera/species) are created equal. Some plants have SPECIFICALLY evolved their embryonic progeny (their seeds) to VERY DELIBERATELY float on water (e.i. - to be carried away by swift current) as a way to expand their territorial distribution; a strategy to improve the prospect of their offspring's ongoing survival. But if such seeds were to sink right to the bottom of a stream, river, or creek, then the prospect of their territorial spread would be significantly hampered. In other adaptational models, some seeds have evolved to be carried aloft by air, through wind dispersal, by employing "parachute"-like protruding tufts of silky, thin fibers ('pappus', for the scientific term, or alternative, 'coma'), and these light, ultra-fine, hair-like fibers will also keep the seed afloat should it happen to drift into a body of water. The genus of Asclepias ("milkweed") is an excellent example of such specialized seed structures. Taraxacum ("dandelions") is another. Heck, even among some plants belonging to the very same genus, such as Rosa ("rose"), one species of roses can yield seeds that tend to float (such as R. rugosa, "Beach Rose"), and another species of roses can yield seeds which tend to sink (such as R. pimpinellifolia, "Burnet Rose.") Hence, demonstrating how dynamically-variable these evolutionary adaptions are from plant to plant. In summary, the pervasive "sink or float seed-soaking viability test" SHOULD have been debunked and laid to rest, a long time ago. Because the Plant Kingdom is highly diversified, and that includes seed structures and their inherently variable environmental interactions. The short of it: Some seeds were meant to sink, others were meant to float, and others still will RANDOMLY do both. And yet, they may ALL still be viable, just the same. This renders the "sink or float test" not only grossly unreliable, but purely fictitious (and also, sadly wasteful, because who knows how many billions of viable seeds have been wrongfully discarded through such a fallacious notion). Still, the BIGGEST embarrassment of all, by far, is that even some prominent members of the horticultural/botanical community continue to dispense this myth to the public, when they should otherwise be reliable sources of competent information. The take-home message: Pre-soak your seeds and sow *all* of them, regardless of which ones "sink" and which ones "float." Nature will know best on how to sort out the duds, not you. (NOTE: Short of using sophisticated low-power radiographic imaging apparatus to look deep into a seed's cross-section/internal structure, and non-destructively so, determining seed viable/fertility to 100% accuracy is virtually impossible.)...See Morecranefire
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6 years agoMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoflowersaremusic z5 Eastern WA
6 years agoDingo2001 - Z5 Chicagoland
6 years agooldrosarian
6 years agocranefire
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agocranefire
6 years agoMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agocranefire
6 years agoMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
6 years ago
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Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA