@k Sissy, I dry all my shower walls, caulking at the floor junction, and corners at the floor. Info this every time. I have not had to "clean" my shower in 3 years. I have only cleaned the cast iron floor as needed, because I don't wipe that down daily. Love the microfiber towel. Mines very thick and is 20x40". It is so absorbent it could dry 2 showers before I'd have to wring it out. It's hard/slow for me to hold the squeegee just right to make the perfect swipe on walls and glass. The towel is a breeze. I've asked people if they had to wipe down a nice car, would they squeegee it? No, they'd use a towel. No connection to this company. I've read that Korean microfiber is the best. I wash mine in very warm water, 120f. http://www.theragcompany.com/edgeless-avalanche-20-x-40-super-plush-drying-microfiber-towel/

This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

Here is my list - - Additional blocking in the framing stage to accomodate grab bars, towel bars etc. Additional blocking being the slidebar of the shower also makes it sturdier to use as a grab bar. - Kerdi board for waterproofing - Heated wires throughout the floor including the shower area - Tall niches with shelves sized to fit the costco sized bottles - Tile that is not too slippery for the floor. Also used epoxy grout to make future maintenance easier. - frameless shower doors - we did pay a couple hundred dollars extra for the really clear glass - U-groove frameless - One of the bathrooms is curbless to accomodate access issues. Has nice looking grab bars and a folding teak shower seat that is ADA rated to 400lbs. - LED cans (california code) - Elongated Toto skirted toilets with sanigloss to make the cleaning easier - the special lutron switches where the fans stay on an extra 20 mins to clear all the steam. we used them with panasonic fans which are much much quieter than what we had in the past - wall mounted heated towel rods - hooks instead of towel bars.. I just preferred the more streamlined look of hooks - plug outlets inside the vanity to charge things. - wheeled laundry basket with divers to sort laundry has a niche to be tucked in. - separate toilet stall with a door. We did not do comfort height as we are not overly tall people. Elongated toto toilets with an integrated skirt to make cleaning easier and a GFCI outlet to plug in a washlet. - paper towel holder from Moen that doubles as a grab bar in the ADA bathroom. - accomodated for daylight (skylight or a window) in both the bathrooms to help people to wake up in the morning.. I love the daylight. - radio for listening in the morning. We are big public radio fans - wall mounted lighted makeup mirror - mirror defogger to prevent the mirror from getting steamed up.. - vac pan at the floor level that connects to our central vac system to make daily cleanups a breeze. I am picky about hair on the floor - solid core doors to prevent bathroom noises from being heard outside. I often have to get ready before dawn and the shower noise wakes DH up. - recirculating pump for our tankless to avoid warm water delays. Ours is integrated into the tankless. - Hansgrohe ibox to get the thermostatic control to preset the preferred temprature - Ebbe integrated drain that has a hidden hair snare. - Handheld shower with a longer hose to make it easier to clean the walls. - rain shower on a longer arm so that you can stand away from the wall.

live_wire_oak: I agree that remodeling a bathroom is a complex job and I am approaching it with caution. I have learned a lot from my unfortunate experience. Some of my lessons learned: Insist that the architect include an electrical and lighting plan in the specs, even if he/she claims it's unnecessary Ask each contractor to provide, in writing, names and license numbers of all subs they plan to use on the job. (My crooked GC "discovered" part-way through the project that his favorite plumber had allowed his license to expire several years earlier, and added him as an "employee" retroactively.) Ask each contractor to provide names of all workers / employees, including relatives, whom they plan to use on the job and to provide evidence of worker's comp insurance Establish work tasks and exclusions in writing before signing contract; e.g., will plumber or demolition company remove existing toilet; will solar tube include a light / fan; will electrical include hanging light fixture over vanity. (My crooked GC insisted that wiring was included but installing sconces or pendant lights was excluded.) Pay my lawyer to review contracts before I sign them No excessive downpayments Allow at most two specialty contractors to work on the project simultaneously Require receipts of materials from contractors (or purchase directly, if possible) from suppliers, e.g., shower pan, plywood for sub-flooring (likely damaged by water leaks). Provide rules ahead of time: no kitchen privileges to workers; no blaring mariachi music on a boombox in my house Know the local code and don't rely on the City inspectors to catch every transgression Tile Corrector: Even with permits, inspectors miss things, e.g., Local code requires a humidistat on bathroom fans; CIty did not catch this omission by the crooked GC in my house Local code specifies: "Control valves and showerheads shall be located on the sidewall of shower compartments, arranged so that the showerhead does not discharge directly at the entrance to the compartment ..." See attached photo of a new build ($4.6M home) a few miles from me (same city, but closer to beach) -- jet showerhead aimed at shower door.