It depends on the weather more than anything. They're very cold tolerant, so getting them in early is no problem, but seed rotting is an issue if the soil is too cold and soggy. So I just look at the weather. Normally we plant in late March or April, but this year it's warmed up a fair bit for this time of year, so I'm planting now. We can tend have some freak frosts until sometime in May, but that doesn't bother them. There's heat too. We can usually keep them going until mid to late June, so I still have a good timespan before planting, IF it doesn't heat up too quickly. That's an advantage of putting out early on years where that seems like a possibility.

Some people start them indoors so they sprout quicker, then place them out in the cold ground, which is another interesting way of doing it

Two factors, I think. First, how wet is the soil? It can harm the tilth to work soil that is too wet. Second, what is the soil temperature? Peas will germinate (slowly) in soil that is as cold as 40­° F. There is actually such a thing as a soil thermometer, but a kitchen meat thermometer reads down to 40°, so that's what I use. I don't expect to plant until the first week in April; last frost date here is after May 15. I might advance that if the weather forecast for the second half of March is warm.

The last few years have taught me that regardless of what cause, the weather and climate patterns are changing. Here in Tn., we are right in the middle of the north/south divide. The Jet Stream, as well as high pressure patterns from the Caribbean, determine our weather on any given day. Even in the dead of winter, we will get a few days of freezing cold, then a few days of spring-like weather. Wildly fluctuating extremes are the norm. Last year, and I exaggerate not, one day the ground was frozen solid, the next day - and continuing all spring - it was 80 F.

This is a new trend that has already shown signs of continuing. It was over 80 F here just the other day... in Feb! And everything is already starting to bloom. But, we still have like 4 - 6 weeks of potentially freezing weather. Unless it stays unseasonably warm, the peach blossoms are toast.

So henceforth, spring gardening here is going to be a challenge. To meet the challenge, I've already started to adjust my methods. I turned, and amended, 4 good-sized beds in the fall while the soil was still workable. I then deeply mulched them with leaves, then covered them with the panels that make up my tomato cages to hold the leaves in place.

Three weeks ago, when the temps came up - and without doing anything to the beds except pulling off the leaves, I sowed my first round of peas, and some favas. They took a while, but now they are up, and there will be plenty of 'warm-enough' days to get them established. If we do get a freeze, they will be strong enough to handle it just fine. I've already sowed the rest of the peas, and just yesterday a few had broke surface. I may have to drape a blanket if this second batch doesn't mature enough to handle a freeze past the 10-day weather forecast.

Is there a benefit for me to change my methods and switch to early planting of peas? Yep! With the climate and weather changes we are seeing, you just can't plant at the traditional dates and expect to get good harvests. Cool weather crops like peas just will not produce under 80 F - 90 F daytime (and correspondingly warm nights) spring temps. At a certain point, it's just cheaper and less hassle to buy frozen peas at the store. So, this new method is working just fine. I don't have to wait until the ground dries out enough to work, and the worst that happens is that I have to cover them up for a day or 2. Is it possible that I'll get a year of colder weather where it doesn't get warm-enough to sow? Sure, but the ground is prepared just the same.

You can adjust your methods to fit your regional climate, but for early and successful spring peas... work and amend the ground in the fall and cover the soil with a thick blanket of mulch (I prefer free, organic materials such as fall leaves, straw, long pine needles, or hay.) Keep the mulch loose enough to make a good insulator, and put some sort of permeable mesh over top to hold the mulch in place... the concrete reinforcing wire I use for my tomato cages works perfectly (my cages are not a continuous length. They are panels made up of 3 squares of the CRW, then the panels are 'clipped' together into circle with short pieces of tying wire. It's easy to take them apart for storage, or to use as a mulch-holding mesh.)

In my wet climate and on my heavy soil rotting is a big issue, As are pests which eat the peas. (I'm never sure if its mice, rats or voles.) If I can bothered I cover the row with clear plastic a few weeks before sowing. This both keeps the rain off and warms the soil. Otherwise I just sow later. There isn't a huge difference in harvest time.

rgreen - I do the same as you in the fall for all of my early spring planted beds...namely onions, leeks, potatoes, broccoli, cauliflower, lettuce, radishes. Just in the last 2 days I have raked off the leaf mulch from my potato and onion beds. The lettuce and brassica beds will stay covered and I will just temporary pull back the mulch to transplant seedlings in a month or so. I must say the soil in these beds this year is the best I have ever had....very rich and fluffy!

I've given up on planting spring peas. Last year (a very mild winter and early spring) according to my notes I sowed snow peas on Feb. 19 and had them sprouting by March 4. They survived a dip into the upper teens in mid March with a double layer of AG19. They started blooming May 7th and I began harvesting May 19. A week or so later temps were consistently in the upper 80s and powdery mildew was taking over the vines so I yanked them in favor of some pole beans.

This year I am going to experiment with planting some snow peas in mid to late August for a fall crop. I will have a couple trellised beds free up around early to mid August after the pickle cukes are done or I'm done with the pickle cukes.

I’m in southwest Tennessee at the edge of zones 7b and 8a. I planted a row of peas today and I think I might be a little late. We will see haha. I plant in raised beds and containers though. The soil in my yard is heavy clay and the drainage is awful. I have much better luck in raised beds and containers.

I am in Georgia just south of Atlanta. Last week I planted Wando, Green Arrow, Alaska, Progress 9, Strike Garden Peas and Dwarf Gray Sugar peas. This is at least a 7-14 days earlier than normal but the 10 day forecast looks good. I did pre-sprout them before planting and some of them are up and growing about an inch tall. This week we will have at least 4 days of sunshine so they should really take off. I am worried that it will get too hot too fast for some of these varieties. Strike peas (bush) should produce (47 DTM) before it gets too hot but not sure about some of the other peas.

Best method I've found was explained By James Underwood Crockett in "Victory Garden." In the fall, dig a shallow trench the width of a hoe blade, the following spring when temp. moisture, etc. are OK, drop peas into the trench and cover. He advocated thick sowing across the bottom of the trench, assuring none are touching. His rationale was thick sowing allows the pea vines to support each other, also "Be stingy with your peas and they'll be stingy with you." Worked very well for me.

Well, heavy rain Thursday, then temps in the 30s. Guess I'll find out if they grow.

Noki, if your soil has warmed enough (it doesn't have to be very warm for peas,) and the air temps stay above freezing, your seeds should sprout. There are, of course, other conditions which can effect their progress (as others detailed above - like rot that can develop,) but even germinating seeds can handle fairly chilly conditions. I'm about to go up and look at them, but I think my first planting is up to 3" - 4" now, and the second is between breaking ground and, 1". Last night got down to 28 F, and they looked just fine as I looked over from the walkway. We're expecting a night down to 26 F in a day or 2, and although I think they will not really have a problem, I'm going to lightly spill 6" - 1' of dry leaves over them for insulation just to protect the youngest of the sprouts. I'll pull that off as early as I can the following morning, but most accounts I've read are that once they are established, peas can survive down to 20 F with little damage.

If your soil drains pretty well, then they should sprout. Just keep an eye on the weather, and if you get a cold snap, just use whatever cover is best for your conditions. Plastic (if kept from touching the plants,) is an easy way to protect from freezing rains. Mulches that offer air-pocket insulation is good for dry and cold. Thicker row covers can also help to insulate them, especially through an extended cold snap.

Peas can take a moderate freeze until they blossom. Then 28 degrees will kill the blossoms and pods that have set. Learned that the hard way, by loosing about half my pea crop to March freeze last year. First time for me tho and I have been doing this for a long time.

Rot can be a problem, but I am not organic and use treated seeds where available. Pretty much eliminates the problem. My Willet Wonders planted Thanksgiving are blooming early this year along with the peaches. Fingers crossed we don't get another low 20's freeze in late March.

IME peas sprout better at somewhat warmer temperatures than they will grow, so I've found that presprouting reduces rot and isn't much trouble for my home veggie garden. I usually soak my peas, drain them, cover them with a damp paper towel in the dish, and when I start seeing a few roots just starting to poke out of the seeds, I then plant them. Once they have started the sprouting process, they are less likely to rot in cold soil and something close to 100% of the seeds grow, and it has the advantage of being too early for cutworms for several weeks when I plant. These are ready to plant, but aren't from this year.

Here in central NH, I don't think I've ever planted before the first week in April, and that was iffy and in a particularly warm year. It isn't unusual for us to have snow in April. I usually plant the first row not long after the soil is thawed since like a few other folks mentioned, I prep the bed the previous fall.

I also presprout all my peas.

Do you pea pickers plant anything behind them once they're harvested and done? I have a 25' long trellis where peas are planted on both sides to grow up. Once they're done I plant cucumber plants in their place. Works well, esp for extending pickling season. Amending soil with compost annually helps to keep it fertile.

That's what I'm doing this year VGKG.

For me, deciding what to plant to follow peas depends on when they quit. If they finish early, I'll plant a summer crop. If they continue far enough into summer however, then I'll turn in some compost, mulch it deep, and devote the bed to some nitrogen-loving fall crop or another.

My season is too short for anything other than salad greens after my peas are done since they produce until mid to late July. By late August new fruits aren't starting to develop and growth has slowed markedly on most crops, but I often plant my vining squash where they can ramble into the pea bed as they get long and the pea plants die.

Any favorites for Shelling Peas that are quick so one can plant something else in June? Sweet wrinkled Peas that hopefully will produce enough at one time to fill a bowl. Been looking at Progress #9, Knight, and Green Arrow.

I know that Peas can take the cold, and I would think short lived snows wouldn't bother Peas much. Snow insulates from below freezing temps to a degree. Now soggy wet soil with 30 to 40 temps sounds undesirable.

Now planning for a fall crop in the midwest crop, how much of a problem is mid August heat and bugs?

We're in southern Missouri. I normally plant in February and they do well. I planted about 2 weeks ago and they are not up yet. Possibly due to the fact it has been so wet. I had 4 inch plants snowed on in past years and the snow did not hurt them.

Thx for the replies. I grow "Frosty" peas along that 25' trellis and after 4-5 pickings they're about done by mid-late June. This gives us enough peas to freeze which last thru the winter. The late cukes planted after the peas are a bonus for extra pickling and autumn salads.

The issue we have here with peas is, we have a narrow window between “too cold to grow much” and “too hot”.

I could plant now, but since we aren’t supposed to get out of the 40s for highs and 20s/30s for lows for at least 8 days, they’ll just sit there doing nothing.

Unless I attempt a low tunnel or something.

Depends on your particular season. I used local weather station data to graph my growing season. For peas i can plant late march. But they still do not get fully ripe pods until june or july. I usually plant my indian corn and most crops on April 1st.

But you are correct. very wrinkled seed like wrinkled snap peas or wrinkled sweet corn have a higher tendency to rot in cold wet soil, so try not to plant too early. Some people pre-soak, but i avoid it if i'm planting at a time that could still get a cold snap like march or april. My methods seems to work for me.

Noki33 - My go-to shelling pea is Maestro. Planted a couple 24' rows last Saturday. I can't wait!

Better to grow pea pods and stir fry them.

I prefer snap peas.

Nobody else in my house will eat them.

I am with them. I like snow peas in stir fry and I love shelling peas, but snap peas are for me "neither fish nor fowl"

Snap peas are definitely more satisfying in many ways... much more food for the pot from the same amount of plants, and quality fresh snap peas like you can get straight from your garden are a rare treat.

But I'm gonna give shelling peas a good effort this Spring to taste peas at their best. I admit I've avoided them in the past as being a waste of garden space. Just hope I get a few nice bunches to cook up.

I remember having to shell peas as a kids. Hated doing it. It all depends on the spring weather. If it gets hot too fast no peas.

Taste wise... shelling peas picked and eaten at sunrise, right there on the spot, are my absolute favorite thing from the garden. Whenever I've grown them, they've never even made it into the house! However, Because space is an issue, and my grandad prefers snap peas - which I also like - right now I only grow snaps.

Shelling peas are my favorite. Of course, we eat them almost every day, so I guess I'm biased.

I was told as long as the soil is workable, in mid to late March. They stay dormant in the cold? Maybe seeing temps into the low 30's?

Early Feb peas were planted and stayed dormant until it was warm enough or them to sprout (around Valentines day) Lincoln and Oregon sugar pod. Any way to tell them apart or only when the peas show up?

Lesson learned for next year. Label the rows!

I sowed some shelling peas outside about a month ago and they have been very slow to come up. In past years I sowed them in the greenhouse and then transplanted when they were about 3-4 inches high and that worked really well. Should stick with what works for me.

Next weekend may be good for me...

What peas is everyone growing this year? When do you plan to plant?

So i planted most of my peas today direct seeded. Just planted, did not water.

If weather is good i will finish planting them tomorrow. Looks like i might be able to squeeze in a few more depending.

I still need to plant the Nap Gene (potential open keel trait)* one. And i might be able to plant both Templeton's Delta Dusk and Heather maybe. I might also try to squeeze in those orc gene peas (orange cotyledons) that may have higher beta carotene. And that's basically it. Room for two more for sure, room for 4-5 more max.

I planted these ones today shortest to tallest:
Super Dwarf:
Mighty Midget
Orange-pod
Short-ish:
"Joseph's" Red Snap (last year my earliest variety other than super dwarfs) (perhaps it is time to rename this as it's not really Joseph's. only descended from his original work and highly selected by me for good red color. But i'm lazy so that is still my current unofficial name).

[blank spot]

Medium:
Large Podded
Wrinkled Seeds (selected from unknowns)
Purple Passion hybrid*
"Joseph's" Yellow-Podded (most wrinkled seeds)(perhaps it is time to rename this as it's not really Joseph's. only descended from his original work. But I'm lazy so that is still my current unofficial name).
Jupiter
[Blank Spot]
TALL:
Joni's Taxi
Purples (most wrinkled seeds)
True Mummys
Biskopens Hybrids
Heavily-Branched (a rogue from last year. May have been my most productive pea just from one plant! had 5 tillers! all massively productive.)

K. I finished planting. I planted Nap gene, 'Canoe', 'Delta Dusk', and 'Heather'. That's it for me. ;)

I planted about 85 ft. of them altogether. Tall Telephone (Alderman) shelling peas. I've got to plant some sugar snap sometime as well. Most of the shelling peas are just emerging from a planting on Feb. 26.

Snow falling here but not staying. I'll wait a few more days to plant in the other garden. These need tomato cages asap. Temps are in the mid 60'sF :)

Well, the late February planting may have not gone well, it just has kept getting colder this March, with light snow. The seeds may have survived but many seeds seem to have been dug out by some city wildlife (squirrel? birds? other shy small mammals?) which is a problem I've had before. Can always plant more the last half of March.

Has anybody ever used some sort of barrier to protect early seeds?

I put some hardware cloth (metal mesh) over my peas - not sure if it worked. The best is to sprout them indoors - I regret now that I didn’t do so because I’d have probably 2-3” plants by now. Same with my fava beans.

I use strips of wire netting pressed down flat on the soil. Pre sprouting doesn't work for me because the mice still dig out the peas. They appear to prefer them just after germination when they will eat the pea and toss the sprout away. I find a row of severed pea shoots lying on the soil beside a series of little scrapes in the soil.

I use either hardware cloth or burlap I like the burlap the best but I only seem to have a problem with birds so the burlap does well for me. It also keeps the soil moist. I only leave it on the rows until the plants have sprouted and grown a bit.

The advantage of wire netting is that you can leave it over the rows even after germination. The creatures which eat my peas don't touch them until after they germinate so protection which is removed early us useless. Once the peas are up a bit the wire netting strips are into tunnels which keep the birds off.

Two things matter the temperature and hours of daylight. If you can control one of those you can plant them early but otherwise you pretty much wait until the weather warms up enough that they germinate. I planted an oat & winter pea mix as a living mulch but I think I'll turn it under to use the space for something else. This year so far I think potatoes sweet potatoes (what is a yam?) tomatoes corn zucc butternut garlic not sure what else. No snow or rain in N. Ca but I don't think it gets warm enough here for melons.

In places with wet winters planting in cold soil can lead to seed rotting or being eaten by soil dwelling pests before germination. Even if hours of daylight are sufficient this still happens. In my kind of climate temperature is the key.

If you're longing for the taste of peas before it's time to plant outdoors, plant seeds heavily in a pan of soil under lights indoors. The leafy shoots taste just like peas...delicious in the dead of winter!

Yes, sprouting the seeds slightly indoors is a good idea. I do this all the time and there's little problem with rotting.