Ailment help? Burn/scorch/dark patches at leaf base, photos included.
clownmotel
6 years ago
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Jeff (5b)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoclownmotel
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Help! My Plant Starts Look Scorched!
Comments (18)One thing - that Jiffy mix is just for seed starting not growing. It is also noted by others on the Growing from Seed forum as having drainage problems. So first thing I'd suggest is buying a bag of one of the many good soil-less potting mixes and transplanting the ones that look salvageable into it. Second, you are using peat pots. They are also well known as being problematic for several different reason - mostly because they encourage over-watering by making the soil appear drier than it really is. Then, once plants develop true leaves they have to be fed - no matter what they are growing in (with a few exceptions). The only organic fertilizer that is somewhat effective in this situation is one of the many fish emulsion/kelp mixture liquids. There simply isn't any active soil bacteria in you mix to convert other organic fertilizers to a form usable by plants. Organic gardening in containers, especially small ones is a totally different ballgame then growing organically in containers. There are many discussions here about this. So even those of us who garden organically will often use a diluted to 1/2 strength Miracle Grow of one of the similar brands for our seedlings. Since you are using Hydrofarm high capacity bulbs I assume they are in Hydrofarm fixtures? If not then they sure should be. LOTS of heat from those. Unlike the standard cool white fluorescent fixtures they are NOT kept close to the plants as they can burn them. They have a 4' footprint and are normally kept 12-18" above the plants and no closer to avoid burning. So it is possible that is contributing to your leaf problems. But the most likely cause IMO is poor soil quality, that it is a only a seed starting mix, they have been given no nutrients, and have been very likely over-watered and the roots are rotting causing the leaves to die. Your last pic is classic of those problems. Dave...See MoreWhite patches spreading on Calamondin leaves? Please help.
Comments (13)rhizo, thank you for answering. i somehow lost track of this thread, and just found it now. i do use rubbing alcohol mixes from 1/4 to 1/2 on just about everything, including crotons. both indoors and when they are outside. even sometimes give a quick wipe with pure rubbing alcohol if i see scale traces (honeydew): crotons and ivy and citrus are fine with that. and even indoor avocado. cleaned it up quick. i also use it to wipe leaves on amaryllis for greenhouse thrips (am in the middle of that infestation at the moment ;) , in hopes that it will damage the eggs embedded within leaves? (if they are there) - seems ok. sorry to digress, but the only plant that did not like it - was hydrangea (i was controlling powdery mildew with 1/3 solution?) - the leaves dried up and dropped off over sev weeks, not right away, but still... not very good. seems when i ask about stuff in sep threads i don't get many answers. so here it comes....just one more question if you see it: have you ever tried soil drench using alcohol solution? for thrips larvae specifically, but also may be for gnat larvae? i normally use neem oil for that, but it's not totally effective, just slows down things a bit. i search thru the web like a maniac - if it's out there, i'll find it. unfortunately specific info is very difficult to get. i will experiment with hort oil again on just a few ivy branches: diluting it by half to start. they do plague mine on hot balcony and indoors too. and i apologize again for digressing!...See MoreHelp with indoor orange plant yellowing around leaf edges
Comments (14)Hi evaglades:0) It's just me jumping on the pH issue at this time. I am not syaing I am sure, but that it is a most common cause and along with other cultural issues, but not the fertilizers fault which stresses has those nutrients. It rather seems to me that some will blame the actual shortage of a certain element/ nutrient and suggest using it as applications when it is already provided, instead of understanding and or getting to know the actual root of the problem. It is called bandaiding and overloading. To illustrate: My Lilacs were producing no blooms for years. I was told by many, even nusery professionals that all I needed to do was add Super Phosphate and that would solve my problems. I did and that did not work. I then asked a certain friend of mine who is a horticultural expert/teacher and he asked me if I had checked the pH and I never did. Liliacs are known to love high pH soils, above 7.0 and the pH in my soil was only 5.6. I added lime as suggested and the next flowering season my lilacs blloms more than you could know for the first time and ever since. HUGE blossom all over my trees. But also, because of such a boost in the phosphate once it became available, the lilac leaves turned very light green and stunted while focusing on bud formation. Being a landscaper, I should of known this, but needed a reminder. Now all is ok. Same can be had for Fragrans Osmanthis and Hoya: They love sweet soil, and I was feeding them water and vinegar thinking it was good for them too. No blooms for years. I talked to the same friend and he said to add lime to my soil and I stopped the vinegar treatment, and boy did they take off and with blooms. It is true. In order for our plants to perform to their best potential, many keys have to come into play. I am not going to mention a great soilless mix at this time, but I will say that pH plays a major role before your fertilizer does in many instances and we should all know what our plants require in this respect as a very important factor. I got to the root of the problem with my citrus trees, many of which are described here and did not bandaid it with adding more of a certain nutrient that most likey would of been overkill. I first have to know what the pH of the water I am providing them is. I can show you green plants because of this, but I think many have already seen them, and the lack of issues many have by just adding a nutrient here and there. I no longer have to add any one particluar nutrient as long as the fertilizer is well balanced, required pH is met, and watering practices are under control. Yes, pH does play a crucial, important, and vital role to our citrus, and that is something all should check before any type of one particular nutrient is recommended/added, especially when the fertilizers being used by many here already have more than enough of the major and minor nutrients that these beautiful trees require for optimal health that many are saying their trees are deficient in. Checking pH can save a lot of time and possible undue stress on our plants with over loading with certain nutrients already available in the soil if we make teh conditions right for teh roots to have access to them. Did you kow that when our container plants sit in temps of below 50 on a continual basis, NO nutrients are taking up by our trees, especially Nitrogen and Iron/ Is someone going to suggest one spray their leaves with Iron or feed their plants with more when COLD is the limiting factor? It is very beneficial to know this, and since have a good relationship with a grower who specializes in growing Four Winds Growers trees which come to everyone very healthy and deep green, and it took a lot for me to understand this and the importance of using vinegar, lime, gypsum, acidifying products which is something I easily find enjoyable to share with many here and yet can be very detremental to our plants or make all the difference in the world. these products are not ones to be taken lightly along with our fertilizer use. It took years for me to get it right, to keep my trees from having the issues many here describe, and I feel it unfair to not address what has helped mine, or what I have learned from many knowledgable members here who took the time to help me understand this:-) Hope your trees are doing ok too. Please excuse any spelling errors, since I have no time to go back and proof read them. Have a fantastic Friday;-) Thank you Mike...See MoreWill reflected sun burn my fiddle leaf fig?
Comments (24)I think our ratio of sunny days to cloudy days is opposite yours, but regardless of the weather my apartment is dim almost all day from October to April. My plants were still very weak, and I wanted then to survive repotting this summer, so I put just a little money into supplemental lights. For my little plant collection I used five 100W, 5000k CFL and LED light bulbs with good results: new growth on my previously half dead ficuses and scheffleras and a thicker trunk on my willowy dracaen. I just put the bulbs into small clamp-on light fixtures, attached them to a shelf above the plants or an old torchier pole next to the shelf for really short plants, put a small table underneath to getthe medium sized plants closer to the light, and positioned the fixtures as close to the plants as I could without endangering the leaves. It's nothing like real sunlight, but even one bulb would help your ficus get through the winter with less depleted energy reserves. Use CFLs or LEDs because incandescents radiate to much heat. LEDs are more expensive but are cooler and last longer, but the CFLs worked great so long as I kept them more than a few inches from the leaves, and still last longer than incandescent bulbs....See MoreJeff (5b)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoKara 9b SF Bay Area CA
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoclownmotel
6 years agoclownmotel
6 years agoclownmotel
6 years agoCrenda 10A SW FL
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoclownmotel
6 years agoRob Blomquist
6 years agolaticauda
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoclownmotel
6 years ago
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