The picture you posted to Photobucket is so tiny that the door details can't seen. Perhaps if you post a larger pic, someone will be able to help.

From the units I have seen and heard of the Marvin Ultimate L&S is a very nice unit (Marvin generally does things right when they release them). As far as Fleetwood, mixed opinions and from what I recall only available in all aluminum (no wood).

I'm doing a concealed microwave (when we can actually get a GC...different story for a different day). And for it, we are planning on a barrister style door opening (it is one door and it opens upward and retracts in at the top of the cabinet). I felt that I would prefer one cabinet door to open as opposed to two for the microwave. And then we are doing a concealed small appliance cabinet that will have two doors and open the way you are mentioning for your microwave, although that may change to a barrister style also depending on if I can get enough height to that cabinet. But you are correct that if the doors are full overlay, they will cover everything. It doesn't matter if the cabinet is framed or frameless. What you need to do is have the doors for that cabinet NOT be full overlay but instead you'll do a flush/inset/furniture style door for that cabinet. There is an alternative to the two things I mentioned above that allows you to have the door lift upwards and it holds open up that way - that option allows for a full overlay door since it doesn't need clearance to retract inside the cabinet...drawback to it is that it blocks any cabinet that is above it while you are using the microwave.

What did you do? (Warning: Novel coming:) I am here to tell you that antique pocket door hardware is perfect, but 50s through early 90s hardware is AWFUL. Who ever thought a J channel would hold a door that gets a lot of use was an idiot. But not as big an idiot as anyone who installed it and walked away. It is ALL in the installation. I've put in 15 pocket doors using the Johnson Hardware's extruded tracks, with their 3-wheel system. No matter what the weight, I always use 3 rollers. Not only can I, a self-taught, dangerous DIYer, do it, but it's well balanced and beautiful. You don't need those giant pocket door kits, either. A 2x6 base plate, then 2x4s turned sideways down either side of the 2x6 makes the channel. The hardware goes on the top, add wheels, bumpers, trim and DONE. DONE I SAY! Your hardware fears are only valid if the same installation you're experiencing is used again, or the installation is too quick or faulty. I don't know what I'd do without the 9 extra square feet in my rooms. I've even used antique French doors (perfect for your dining room!?) in 3 of them. In the other doors, I'm using antique, horizontal 6-panel doors (harder to find than the 5-panel and cooler doors, I think) which are solid and beautiful. More interesting than any slab door. The only other tip I would suggest is to make certain they're exterior thickness, which is at least 1.75" thick. Interior doors these days are usually 1 3/8" thick and rather flimsy for a pocket. Today I'm installing the trim on the last of the French doors I'm using. It's an antique (i.e. also reclaimed) and just beautiful. Great sight line from the window in the mudroom, into the kitchen. Gives me more light than my dark kitchen than I'd had before. As you can see, I can't rave enough about my pockets. Don't let some contractor tell you they're too difficult or more expensive. Show them this DIYer's post and I'll help their pro-butts out. Remember, if this (nitwit) chick can do it, a pro should do it with their hammer tied behind their back.