hi Terri i use baking soda on a damp sink if bad leave overnight before rinsing or about 1 hr if not too bad i have been renovating my bathroom and cleaned old tile adhesive in my sink left a grey stain i could not remove by normal cleaning & thought was permanent on advice from someone on this forum sprinkled baking soda on my damp sink overnight on rinsing with hot water following morning to my relief stain all has gone and like new again give it a try? i do not like idea of oils as i think attracts more grease and dirt and do not like my sink to look shiny as it was not when new and looks far better in a matt finish

a vessel with no overflow not draining fast enough. in this very specific case, i think it is good to point out that "venting" could mean before or after the P trap. In plumbing, venting means after the P trap. If you had two vessel sinks (each with no overflow) connected by a "continuous waste" onto a single P trap, they would both flow well, as air in the pipe below one sink before the P trap would get displaced into the pipe of the other sink. Newbies, search on "continuous waste" to see images. Continuous Waste Center Outlet is easiest to visualize. Continuous Waste End Outlet is the other option. If someone else more qualified wants to add to this description, please do. To add more precise plumbing terms to describe the two kinds of venting. Before the P trap and after. Water and air have to be exchanged (displace each other) for a pipe to drain well. When it drains slow, one can increase the pipe size (which allows air in the pipe to move around the water coming down) by one size, or give the air another place to go to. AAV Studor type valves are for letting air in, not for letting air out. They are used after the P trap not before. Following the logic of air displacement described above, one way to solve the slow drain is to Wye in a standpipe which would then let air move out of the way (get displaced) when water comes down the drain. The standpipe could be hidden from view; it doesn't have to be in the bathroom if you have a more appropriate place for it behind one of the walls. HTH !

This is an old thread but it helped me. We had a leak under the kitchen sink, somewhere. There's a leak it turns out on the hose for the sprayer. 'kind of where it forms a 'U' near the weight. We have a Kohler K560 CP. (one handle for hot and cold) For some stupid reason I shut off the hot and cold valves under the sink. But it was nice that after 3 years they were not frozen at all. So im using a bucket under the leaky line until I get the replacement hose. ANYWAY, when I turned on the valves and the faucet, hot did not work at all, and cold worked normal. And then I lost some pressure on the cold. So I eventually tried what was recommended in this thread. I shut off the hot valve under the sink and I detached the hot line at the valve point and put it in a bucket. The cold valve was open, and I opened the cold full blast at the sink and held my hand tight over the faucet tip. I did that a few seconds. I was glad to see water and sediment had shot out of the hot line into the bucket. I reattached the hot to the valve and opened the valve. Both hot and cold water flow were restored. So I haven't flushed out the cold line because I dont want to break what isnt broken. :)

If it does turn out to be junk in the water line, you might think about having plumber put a very *basic* filter in main water line coming into the house. Swap out the filter every 3 - 6 months for a few $$. This would keep that sort of thing from happening again, ^and^ will lengthen the life of your hot water heater.. Most go bad when very small stones in water line fly into the tank at high enough velocity to make cracks in the glass liner. Once cracked, the tank begins to rust; eventually the tank begins to leak. No cracks, lifetime might be in decades. .