ok first figure out your layout .then your toilet goes first the furthess away then you put a 3x3x2 Y that 2 inch is your wet vent that goes to you lavatory and then ties up to your dry vent .of that 2 inch you gona put a 2x2x1 1/2 Y for your shower or tub . 3 inch pipe cant exceed 12 feet long after that you need a dry vent . 2 inch pipe cant exceed 8 feet and 1 1/2 is 6 feet hopefully this will help a bit . heres my e-mail if you need help rhealbourgeois@hotmail.com

I like my cooktop a bit closer to my sink and on the same counter run so I don't have to carry wet, drippy things across my floor. So I'm not sure I'd like that. I go back-and-forth between sink and cooktop frequently so the longer trek would bug me. If you go with that plan, I can see the peninsula becoming the major prep area instead of the back counter. If you find that's true for you, you will want to move the DW to the other side of the sink. I do think that long, uninterrupted back counter would make a great baking center. But I also think moving the wall ovens next to fridge (or removing them and replacing cooktop with range) would give you better advantages and still give you a baking center. I like Palimpsest's idea better. Again, YMMV.

Caveat - I am not a plumber - I think the general venting scheme may be acceptable, considering the relatively short distances. However, is that capped 3" pipe where the toilet used to be, or am I missing the toilet drain in the pictures? The angles for many of the pipe connections look like they could be a problem. For example, for a 3" toilet drain pipe you want gradual bends (45 degrees, etc.), especially when its close to other drain connections that would be plugged if it went the wrong way. I think I would want the sink drain to enter into the top half of the 3" pipe, like you would if it was a dry vent. This keeps the connection up high where it is unlikely to be blocked. Wet vents are normally kept open by flowing water, but with that close toilet connection I would be concerned that sewage could backup the wrong way and block the sink drain/vent. Bruce

I think the key word above is "appear" because to me these OTR microwave ovens look like they are not flush by two or three inches. From an earlier post: "If I can use the top vent [to] go up through the cabinet and resolve the ductwork above that cabinet, that vent will care for the stove venting and the magnatron venting, and I would not need a MW with a front-facing louver." In my view, neither this nor any other microwave oven venting scheme I'm even vaguely aware of will "care for the stove venting" because they move far too little air per unit time and the units do not overhang the burners sufficiently. Perhaps if a supplementary blower designed for higher pressure loss is used in the path taken by the this so-called ventilation to augment the flow rate, barely adequate air flow will be possible. But even then, capture area will be too small to have much effect on front burner plume capture. You can design for style and give up on having adequate ventilation, or design for adequate ventilation and give up on OTR microwave ovens. Your statement "For what it's worth, most of the cooking on our stove is boiling water or soup, scrambling eggs, or simmering an occasional kettle of sauce." suggests that you can get away with doing the former. In that case, provide manufacturer specified cooling paths for the magnetron, and ignore limitations of the mediocre or worse ventilation. And don't sear steaks on the cooktop before baking them in the oven.