There has to be a reason the problem is happening. Either the hinge will not stay tightly mounted in the box/door, or the hinge is broken/not holding the adjustment.

It should be possible to determine what the problem is. A loose hinge mount(door/box) that is very tiny is magnified by the width of the door. A small deficiency in the hinge adjustment portion is similarly magnified.

If you are inclined, you could remove that hinge and swap it with another on a different door. If the other door sags---replace the hinge.n If the original door still sags, there is/are a loose screw(s).

Repairing screw holes in MDF(what is probably under the laminate) caused by over tightening(very common by inept installers) is not easy. One method(you can DIY) is to remove the screw, jamb a wooden toothpick in the hole(break it flush with the hinge) and replace the screw---hand tightening. Corded/cordless drills are the No. 1 cause of stripped cabinet screws.

There won't be a hinge with greater load capacity.

How tall is the cabinet? Salice calls for 3 hinges if door is over 39" h. Most of the time I see 3 hinges at 39". That is the only way to increase the load capacity.

I didn't check other brands of hinges since changing brands can be complicated but I doubt you will find more adjustment on others. There are spacers but those won't work for your problem since they are designed only to move the door away from the hinges-wrong direction in your case.

If you either don't need 3 hinges or already have 3 then go at this methodically.

Try to determine what hinge you have and the specs.
If it has 3 hinges release the middle one completely.

First-check,with the door closed check the clearance of the back of the door to the cabinet at the hinge side. Salice lists that at 0.07 mm. A tad more is ok any less with create problems. Then open the door while watching the how the door clears the cabinet. First watch the inside of the door, once it is fully opened check the outside edge. IF either hits then adjust the door out. The door binding against the cabinet while opening is a common cause of loss of adjustments.

Next I'd adjust the hinges so that both are as far in as they can go-in your picture to the right. In most cases the reveal between the door edge and the cabinet edge should be 1/16". If it is much more than that it's possible that the hinge cup (big round part about 1-3/8" in the proper place. Check the distance of that against the hinge specs. IF it's drilled wrong you need a new door.

Now if the door does not bind and the reveal on the right is correct.

Set the bottom hinge height adjustment so that the hinge is centered on the mounting plate. Then adjust the top to the point where it moves about as easily up or down wherever that is. Does that also look to be about centered on the plate?

Now begin to move the door up and down so that the bottom reveal is correct according to the cabinet mfg specks- (which vary) Do this gradually moving each hinge a little in the direction you are after.

Now you have adjust "up and down" and " in and out" properly and should have the hinge set as far to the right as it will go. Then and only then can you adjust for rotation. Once that is adjusted it may be necessary to re-adjust the vertical. There should be no reason to adjust "in/out" but double check it just to be sure. IF that has changed and the door rubs, re-adjust.

IF none of this places the door in the correct position it is a manufacturing defect IMO. There is absolutely no reason that you should need to use Loctite. There may be situations where the hinge should be replaced but first you need to know that all the drilling is correct by doing the above excercise.

IMPORTANT- In many case the screws used on hinges and glides are NOT phillips head. They look like it at first glance but may be "Posi drive" screws. These require a different screwdriver than a phillips head. Using a Phillips head on a posit drive with slip damaging the head. There are extra little lines scored into the head as in the attached picture. If that is what you have get a posi drive screwdriver or a bit to insert into an interchangeable screwdriver. (you won't find them at the Lowes or HD hear though. Many installers don't have one or even know what they are, I keep a supply around and hand them out.

Good luck

How many hinges? 3 or more then check for door sag: lift at the hinge side bottom of door. If you can displace the door more than a 1/4" inch you have one or more broken hinges. Unclip and check each one individually. If they do not self close then replace.

If you are not experienced with concealed hinges then I would advised you to find a cabinet installer who is. My quess is 1) inadequate door support, 2) broken hinge(s), 3) one hinge grossly misadjusted/installed. And as MarkJames pointed out: do not get near the screws with any other than a posi-driver.

The cabinet is just shy of 36" tall, 21" wide.

When the door is closed, there is a 3/16" gap between the door and the box, there does not seem to be any binding when opening/ closing.

This is really odd, but when the screws are adjusted so that the door is as far right as possible, the bottom right side (reveal) is almost flush with the box (maybe 1/32") while the top is almost 1/8". The screw is adjusted as far as possible. Both hinge cups seems to be the same distance from the door edge. They seem to be consistent with those on the other doors.

I took a smaller door off and swapped out the hinge with the top hinge which didn't change anything. I checked that the panel on the left side of the box is plumb, that the door is level and square, etc., made sure the gap between the box and the door is the same top and bottom.

I'm unable to move the door up/down as they used loc-tite on the hinge (to box). The bottom of the door reveal on the right is flush with the box and just a hair below the box on the left bottom.

I'm including a video of what happens if I push up on the bottom outer edge of the open door. You can see the hinge move. I thought that since they had used the loc-tite, this hinge was FIRMLY attached to the box, but I can feel the part that's screwed to the box move slightly when I do this. Other door hinges do not do this.

When this door was initially installed the installer used a short wood screw to attach the hinge to the box. I noticed it after they left. We had a few extra hinges here so we swapped it out with the correct screw. The next time the installer was here, I showed him the wood screw that he had used and he said "well, that's what they gave us to use" or something to that effect. I said "No, it isn't, it's not what's used on any of the other hinges."

I think that's what started all this.

I spent hours messing with this today. It's driving me crazy.

Apparently I can't upload a video (.mov) from my computer?

Thanks for all the help guys. And yes, I have a posi bit, I'm worse than a guy in a hardware store.

Lorraine. Again- find someone to take care of this for you. It's a no-brainer for an experienced pro.