Maybe stop using the leaf cleaner. The two bottom leaves could be 'seed' leaves - the first two to have opened from seed growing, and it's normal for them to eventually fall off.

quote from the link below: boron deficiency? Watch for the following nutritional deficiency symptoms: Magnesium (Mg) deficiency, a problem with some cultivars, appears as golden-yellow margins on lower leaves. Prevention of Mg deficiency via supplemental Mg is much more effective than trying to reverse an Mg deficiency. Iron (Fe) and Manganese (Mn) deficiencies exhibited as reduced growth rates and chlorotic leaves can occur during winter months when the soil temperature is below 65ðF (18C). Sulfur (S) deficiency, exhibited as overall chlorosis of foliage, is sometimes seen when using highly refined, low sulfur fertilizers. Boron (B) deficiency may be a cause of longitudinal ribbing of the leaves, often seen on new growth. Here is a link that might be useful: peace lily recommended culture

Tapla & others i understand both sides of the debate for my PL. I repotted the PL in 5:1:1 (used 5 Reptibark, 1 Sp peat, & 1+Med perlite (prob 1.25) & trimmed off the brown & left many leaves on. It looked droopy the next day & figured it would have some transplant shock. I had to go out of town for work, but had my watering help in order. She texted me a pic of the wood stick so I could tell her when it was ready to water. She watered it once when I was gone for 9 days. My help however, didn't tell me that the whole plant collapsed! (Arguing I couldn't do anything for the plant out of town). moving on, Mother Nature decided the next step. Last night when I got home, I cut all the leaves back. The mix is dry on top but moist a bit down-- maybe a bit too moist, but not wet, not soggy for sure. This mix is better than it was in before, but this PL never wilted between waterings before. When I felt down, I pulled up one of the small loose & single shoot & the roots were brown & didn't Li like it was the same PL I left 9 days ago! Should I dig it up to evaluate the other roots? I can't believe the roots would have started to rot so fast, but im not sure what to do. I used distilled water. And I planned on starting to fertilize with 9-3-6 when I came home. Your last comment indicated to make sure the "Roots only " plant wasn't too moist & just damp. Would putting the PL near my grow light be beneficial? I do think the PL needed more light than it received before- it had enough to survive, but not thrive. My husband has a light meter... What FC/lux would be best at this point? When I repotted my big PL (pics shown), I replanted the other 2 I had. The medium PL took a hit to the older leaves (which I've now removed) but small newer ones ok & plant still green. The smallest PL is still green & doing ok I think. I know things don't happen fast with plants, but I want to make sure I'm giving the best environment it needs. Your help is always appreciated as I learn! Thanks! ~Betina

Jayme needs a haircut. ;-) "I don't believe I'm heavy handed on watering because it rarely floods through the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot and when this does happen I always empty the tray so that it's not standing in water." We know your soil holds water, but let me show you why your contention doesn't. Let's say I have a horrible soil that holds 6" of perched water at container capacity. Since that's probably Greek to most growers, it means that after gravity is done pushing water out of a recently saturated soil and it has JUST stopped draining, the bottom 6" of soil is fully saturated and essentially airless. This means that the function of ALL roots within that 6" tall column of saturated soil is being limited by a lack of oxygen. Using your contention, everything is fine if I only add enough water to raise the ht of the saturated soil column to 5-7/8", because water won't drain until the ht of the saturated soil column is greater than 6". Essentially, there is no difference of note between a saturated soil column of 6" vs 5-7/8"; which means that over-watering is surely in play as a potential limitation. Too, if you water consistently so no water exits the pot, you ensure ALL the dissolved solids in fertilizer solutions and tapwater remain in the soil. This increases the mineral salt level in the soil (TDS) and can very quickly skew the ratio of a singular nutrient to all of the others, which creates another significant issue. I can clearly see from the list of ingredients that you unwittingly made a very water-retentive soil. Compare what your soil looks like to these soils, which are what I grow in: You can clearly see there are going to be large pores between the high % of large particles that will be filled w/air instead of water after the soil stops draining subsequent to being saturated. Ideally, you would move in that direction. I promise it will make a BIG difference in your ability to manage your plants' moisture and fertility needs. This will provide information that will help you turn your plant around. and This link, which goes into considerable detail about How Water Behaves in Container Soils, probably represents the largest step forward you can make as a container gardener. If you make the effort to understand the concept it outlines, it should change the way you look at container media and significantly increase the rewards you get from your growing efforts. Al