Only if the container were the exact shape and depth of the original pot, and all you did was literally slip it out of there in one whole piece into the second pot and then just added (if necessary) more mix around the sides.

Dear Lucy: Can't tell you how much I appreciate your interest with these questions. Yes, prune in late fall/early winter. In NYC that can be difficult to determine, because temp's. can be very warmish until the beginning of January, and then they can suddenly take a nose dive until March. Your instructions imply that pruning is OK after trees go into dormancy, .... correct? Size of tree will roughly be, give or take a few inches, almost the same size as the basic framework of the tree after the initial trunk-chop, and bending up one of the side branches to form a new, narrower "trunk" section, and some new "branches" to fill out the basic design. This will be trained in the "BUNJIN/LITERATI" style, so, the basic framework will be very stark, and will only consist of the main trunk: 28" high, then, one of the existing major side branches will be trained to form a continuation of the trunkline, and then, a new apex and some side branches. I plan on planting this tree into a large tub, or a training bed so that the tree could recover from the major surgery/wiring quickly, and to ultimately put out some new branch growth to fill out the existing branches. I don't want, or need, branches to sprout out from, or along the tall, branchless, trunk bottom. This section of the tree will remain branchless for this design, however, I do want to encourage new growth on the already existing branches, and needle bundles. The only major pruning this tree will get, is really, the trunk-chop. The rest of the "tree" is basically there, ... it just has to be wired, bent, and trained into the "Bunjin" style. The main reason I picked out this tree, is that, most of what I will be training has already grown. I'll have a tall, tapering trunk, secondary trunk, and, major branches, to complete the basic design of the final tree. Sort of an "instant" bonsai. I'm 58 years old, so, I need most things to be "instant"!!! The mechanics of how to form this tree were not my problem, but WHEN to do the major work was not clear to me. Wish I could show you some photos, and/or sketches of this tree, and the design that I had in mind, but, sorry to admit, I'm not at all, computer "savy". Perhaps, if, and when, I work on this tree, I might be able to post some before and after pictures ... with the help of my friends. Thanks again for all your interest, and for your helpful suggestions. Cordially yours, Frank DV

My answer would be NO! Tried both Atlas and Deodar down here in blackland prairie soil and neither species would grow. pH is around 7.5 and assume it must be too alkline for them or too clayey or too hot or too windy or too something. I'm tired of finicky exotic conifers that don't grow and am sticking to natives. Your location/zone wasn't listed, so of course where you're at it may be different. On the other hand, there may be a reason they are out of favor there also. There are a few in this area where pockets of different soil exist and these trees are attention-drawing as they get bigger. Actually more prevalent in the Texas hill country. However some Deodars have died at the tops. None of the smaller ones seems to be growing very fast.

While trying to tie it before planting I broke off the central leader. ==>> been there... done that ...lol .... live and learn.. both you and the tree ... (quite devastated). ==>>> nonsense.. perhaps you feel guilty.. so what.. as i said.. live and learn .. I understand the devastation. ==>> i dont anymore.. after the first time.. lol ... listen to me... and i will yell for emphasis ... ALL TREEs WILL RE-LEADER ... period ... if it dies.. it will be from IMPROPER PLANTING ... IMPROPER WATERING... or IMPROPER AFTERCARE/MULCHING ... you will give it.. upwards of 3 years... to sort itself out.. and THEN YOU WILL 'THINK ABOUT' HOW TO TRAIN IT ... i can send you an application for the WEIRDER THE BETTER CLUB.. if you wish .. i founded said club.. after doing it myself the first time... lol ... [well.. actually after the third time... lol.. i am a slow learner ...lol] the real question here.. is why you were trying to tie it up.. BEFORE PLANTING .... i bet you were focused on training it.. rather than getting it planted.. and established .... get it to live first.. THEN worry about training it.. as the years roll by ... please refer to the link.. to insure you did everything PROPER .... and if not... lets discuss it .... lastly ... and this is why i gave you the link.. why were you planting an 8 foot tree.. in july???? .. i know there are places that are much more forgiving than MI in july/august.... but even so.. there are better times to do such .... refer to the link for PROPER WATERING... as that will determine.. if it lives.... and.. no fert EVER... it will not help a stressed plant.. ever..... and a newly planted 8 foot conifer.. is stressed..... well.. i suppose it 4 to 5 feet now ... learn to laugh at yourself... live and learn... get it to live.. we can work on it as the years roll by ... BTW.. a pic might get slightly different answers .. but not much ... ken Here is a link that might be useful: link