Tile to ceiling or just top? Bullnose? Metro Gris Black
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User
6 years agoRelated Discussions
I think I am in over my head with tiling bathroom
Comments (10)I did tiling for the first time when I tiled my backsplash and I can give you some advice from one beginner to another (not meant to replace the advice of a pro, but just might be some things that a pro takes for granted since they are good at what they do). IMO the way to get a professional looking job is to: 1) take your time. It's not going to go quick, that comes with practice. It took me a week to do my backsplash, a pro would have done it in a day, but I got a professional look. 2) use spacers. If there are no lugs on your tile to give the proper spacing, use spacers. I will never forget watching some DIY show, maybe weekend warriors, where the guy was like "I don't need to use spacers, I have a good eye." Oh what a crappy install THAT turned out to be. Again this is a practice thing, someone who does this all the time might be able to do it without spacers but you don't have that much practice so use them. 3) never work with someone who doesn't have the same standards you do. Tiling is not necessarily a 2 person job. 4) Try out one of those cheapie tiling kits at home depot - the one that comes with a cheap, half circle shaped piece of tin for spreading thinset. I have kind of small hands (definitely smaller than the average man) and found that this tool was MUCH easier for me to control than the larger trowel. Sure, you can't spread as much at one time but see #1. Even with the trowel, the thing is notched to make sure you get the right amount of thinset on the walls. Use the right size notches (maybe bill can help you with that and also some tips for applying). 4) Buy more extra than you'd need for a pro and don't be afraid to use it... to re-cut anything that needs to be re-cut etcetc....See MoreTile experts (+everyone!) pls help- tile this window/wall?
Comments (19)Budge, THANK YOU. I think the window looks great with the tile and I'm going to have my contractor do the same thing. Did you use 6" bullnose on the inside of the window? I only ordered 3" but I think the 6" looks great. I wonder if I could use non-bullnosed tile on the inside of the window (run the same direction as yours) and put 3" bullnose on the outside, so that the grout line would be inside the window rather than outside...hm. I'd still need 6" bullnose for the top and bottom, but not as much. As for the bump in the wall, I went home and measured tonight and the brick does extend a good 4-5". SO, I'm stuck with the double bump. I think I am just going to tile over (to the ceiling!!!), inside and around the window and then start painting when I hit the bump. Thank you everyone for all of your help and great ideas - you all are the BEST!!!!...See MoreNeed advice for tile on shower niche
Comments (59)Catlady999 the light over the shower was installed by a licensed electrician who was doing a bunch of other work in the house but thank you for bringing that up! *Update* good news: my mom said she's going to tell the guy to stop working in the bathroom area and just focus on getting the other things (painting, drywall) so hopefully this means we'll be getting a real professional who knows what they're doing!...See MoreHow to end shower tile at ceiling?
Comments (13)Thanks, all! I am 100% certain our ceiling is not plumb with the walls--even the floor there is not quite level sadly. (105-year-old house!) In our kitchen we used moulding and just scribed it to the ceiling, but trickier (and more noticeable) to do with tile of course. Not sure exactly how high our shower head yet, but it will be mounted on the side wall (vs. on the ceiling). We are planning B&W Tile for our field tile since they have the color we want, but hoping to mix this with Daltile for the trim (partly for cost, and largely because we can get that locally, so we can refine the details and/or return or swap pieces easily as we get into the tiling). We have window moulding immediately adjacent to the shower that stops at 7', so could also make the tile even with that, which will still be a bit higher than the tile in our existing bathroom. We have had to repaint that several times over the years, but the most recent paint job with Aura Bath & Spa is still doing well at seven years. And of course I realize if we tile all the way up, we'll have a different task of having to clean the grout that high, which is a different challenge! We are undecided on glass door vs. curtain, but are designing to accommodate a glass door now or in the future. The shower will be open to the room above the door, though (vs. enclosed, since the fan will be right outside the shower enclosure)....See More
enduring
6 years agoUser
6 years ago
Diane
6 years ago
mmmm12COzone5
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoWe went to the ceiling. Measure and figure out the tile layout in advance to make sure you don't end up with small cuts. Don't rely on your tile guy to do it.
Attached are pictures of our shower. The tile guy wanted to do two full tiles in the center of the back wall and then small cuts on the end. I pointed out that if you did one full in the center than the two on the end were practically full size. We also made sure to cut the ones for the shelf in such a way that the lines lined up with the back wall. The small cuts were down close to the floor and less noticeable than they would be on the top row.
We also used floor tiles. I took them to a custom bullnose place. It
was $100 to bullnose enough for the wall edges and the shelf. I liked
that better than the plastic strips that are often used to edge the
tile. I got redundant bullnose pieces for the unique pieces on the shelf
and a couple more redundant pieces for the edges just in case of a bad
cut. But the bullnose people messed up, not realizing these were
redundant pieces and I had wrong bullnose edges for the redundant corner
piece. Luckily that cut went well so I didn't have to go back and get
another piece made.We also did full size tile at the edges of the sides and the cuts are toward the back wall.
We used color matched silicone caulk in the corners and on edges of the shelf. White
paintable caulk was used on the ceiling and adjacent to walls and white silicone
caulk adjacent to tub. So three types of caulk used.There are small pieces at the base near the floor but you don't see them unless you are looking for them.
He made all but one cut well. The bad cut (too wide) was on the shelf so I didn't spot it before it was put in. I checked on him periodically and the cuts were so precise that I wasn't checking after every cut after a while. The shelf was one of the last cuts. I had let my guard down by then so he did sneak one bad cut by me.
The radius cuts around the tub were excellent.
He did the cuts against the ceiling very nicely because of course everything wasn't square so although they are all flush with the ceiling they had to be custom measured with each cut to insure such a good looking clean line on the top.
He washed the grout out with too much water when cleaning up, leaving the grout very white so I put a color enhancing seal on. The grout lines mostly disappeared with the enhancing seal but it left them shaded irregularly. It goes well enough with the tile so I didn't worry about it.
Overall fairly pleased considering some of the jobs on here. His caulk lines are good but I insisted he use tape with the white caulk after seeing him not use tape with the color matched caulk.
He did one very weird thing. He was worried the grout would stick to the bullnose edges so only grouted up to about an inch away from them. He was planning to caulk those edges in. The caulk was not that well color matched so I tested the grout on the bullnose edges and it did not stick so I had him go back with a second batch and grout in all the places he left empty. You can see in the pictures where one inch from all the edges is a slightly darker grout and sometimes not the same level. There wasn't much I could do about it after it was done other than have him fix it the way he did. Luckily it isn't that noticeable.
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