Builder installed shower rod about a half inch too high
Ellen Compton
6 years ago
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PROAnglophilia
6 years agoRelated Discussions
$3500 to install tile in a shower sized 4 x 6? Is this high?
Comments (5)Is it real stone or ceramic? Real stone costs much more to lay. They often have to fabricate pieces (like the bullnose surrounding the shower opening), which greatly adds to the expense. My boys baths are ceramic and they had ready made bullnose that matched and that saved us hundreds and hundreds of dollars. Our shower was roughly that size and cost almost exactly that much. Just tiling the walls and floors was around 2500.00 including materials. The walls were inexpensive travertine 12 x 12 laid straight (diagonal costs more). The floor is a more expensive mosaic. That price includes tiling the ceiling. It does NOT include fabricating the bullnose around the shower, the niche, the pan, the corner seat or sealing the stone. I think we are around 4500.00 including that. Fabricating the bullnose for the surround so it was bullnosed on both sides was 1080, so that was a large amount of the cost. The walls and ceiling were another 2250, including the stone (but it was about 600.00 of material). I guess when you add the material together we were around 1000.00 so that sounds in line with what you are being charged. What does your guy charge per square foot? I think my guy charged roughly 7.00 a square foot but there was an upcharge for stone and another upcharge for diagonal....See MoreNeed help re: height to hang shower curtain rod
Comments (3)The height of a shower rod relative to the position of a tub is largely a matter of use and desired effect. Some shower curtains extend almost entirely to the floor while others drop just below the rim of an attractive claw foot tub. What is certain is the shower curtain liner needs to hang down into the tub below its rim so water does not splash onto the floor. Hanging a Shower Rod Shower curtains are commonly 6 feet in length from top to bottom. They are made longer as well. For custom bathtub designs, their length can vary greatly. If you are installing the shower rod anew and need to know where to hang it, the first thing to do is measure the length of the liner. If it is 6 feet long, figure that it should hang below the rim of the tub at least 5 inches. That means the rod should be placed 5 feet 7 inches from the top of the tub. However, consider the difference between the rod placement and where the liner attaches to the curtain rings. If the liner dangles 2 inches below the rod, you can add that to the height of the rod, placing it 5 feet 9 inches above the tub. The curtain also requires some consideration. It should not drag along the floor; rather, it should be at least 2 inches above it when hanging. If you want to showcase a claw foot tub, hang the curtain just a few inches below the rim of the tub. Here is a link that might be useful: shower rods...See MoreAre my expectations just too high for even the high end cabinet makers
Comments (45)1) Regarding the screws.... For the drawer faces: Pocket holes should be drilled into the face frames if they must be attached permanently vs using the hardware to keep them on. The pocket holes should have covers attached (either the plastic or wood options). I personally prefer if they are removable via removal of the hardware so they can be changed out or refaced in the future & since you're going the custom route I'd defiantly want it! Inside the cabinets: A pilot hole should be drilled prior to screw if the wood hardness requires it & the screw counter sunk (slightly below the side walls) with or without plastic caps (depending on the company). Cabinet/Wall Brace:Are all the cabinets secured to the wall with simple screws?? I was really surprised to see this! How are they making sure the bases are secured to studs & not just drilled through into the gypsum board? In the past I've seen cabinet makers use a base board across the run anchored into wall studs and the bases are then secured to the board. Holes: The hole that will be exposed once the dishwasher is installed needs to be fixed. The fridge cabinet with the double screws and the blank hole is ridiculous...whomever was doing the install rushed and didn't care about screw placement or taking the time to properly aline things before drilling. Again= Custom built should = quality control and care! Yes there are MUCH better ways of finding the studs...even just using your knuckles to knock on the wall can get you close enough that a max of 2 holes might need drilled if you miss it the first time....again, sloppy work installing. The range microwave: Did they know that cabinet was going to support a microwave/hood? I'd ask about the install and max weight support. I don't believe 2 screws is enough to hold it (especially if they only screwed it into the wall & not a support board!) but don't know...I'd just hate to have it come crashing down a year from now! *You need to make sure the cabinet makers know that screw placement & finish result is important to you and you expect no screws will be felt or seen once the install is complete. 2) Shims: Yes, it's totally normal for wood shims to be left under the cabinets. Floors aren't completely level and in a new build the house will settle over time and the floor will change so it's important that the cabinets can be leveled. This is why RTA cabinets like IKEA have adjustable feet on the base that's hidden with a toe kick. Custom cabinet makers use wood shims to level on site during install and those can then be removed or added to as time goes on and any changes are required to keep the cabinets level. 3) Fixture & Outlet Holes: Yes, it's common to have large square pre-cut from the backs before install as plumbing is different for every job & since fixtures change depending on the choices made in faucet, garbage disposal, dishwasher lines, etc they can't make exact cuts. Again, this is why a lot of RTA cabinets are backless and if the backing is ordered it must be cut by the installer to fit the existing fixture spaces. HOWEVER- I totally agree with your being upset about the range plug placement and their solution to cut another hole into the side of the custom cabinet boxes. Although- I'm not entirely sure I understand correctly if it had to go through another base to reach the outlet or just the base of that unit vs the back side where a hole was already cut? I don't know what another solution would have been.... 4) Cabinet Face Gaps: Are you doing a full overlay with the new build as well? I completely agree that the gap's should be consistent and you definitely shouldn't be able to see the contents of the drawers! If the cabinets are full overlay why is the frame not hiding the contents? If they are custom inset then I'd be very picky about how it all lines up since this is a fine craft that requires skill & time to get right (hence the excessive cost)...plus wood swells & contracts so they need to fit properly with a slight consistent gap after install....See MoreCurtain rods too high? awkward?
Comments (28)Going to add my opinion...but you do what looks good to you. I personally like curtains/drapery rods just above the trim on the windows and curtains/drapes just touching the floor. Also like the drapery full enough so that when you pull it, it cover the windows. If you never pull the curtains/drapery, then that is different...though still would lower the rod....See More
Ellen Compton
6 years agoarcy_gw
6 years ago- PRO
Patricia Colwell Consulting
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago 
katinparadise
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
This style of hook may give you the extra length you need. I guess it would depend on what kind of rings you have on there now.
suzyq53
6 years agoEllen Compton
6 years agoeandhl2
6 years agomjconti
6 years ago
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