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Remodeling Kitchens

Stainless undermount sinks... do they all have problems?

6 years ago

last modified: 6 years ago

I'm renovating a higher-end rental home. I'm looking at SS undermount sinks around or under $200. There are many, and some of them sound great (16 guage rather than 18, etc). Rutavi, Krauss, Zuhne, and Ticor. I have an 8-year old Ticor that I think is fine. But although most of these sinks get predominately good reviews, ALL of them have some folks who say they don't drain well, rust, and scratch! So I'm not sure what to do... I really don't want to have to replace the sink in a few years, since how likely is it I'd find the exact same profile for the cutout in the quartz counters?

What are your thoughts?

Featured Answer

javiwa

6 years ago

Start another thread. :)

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Comments (8)

Chessie
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
You will find complaints with every brand of sink. Remember that folks don’t generally go online to give a good review, it’s usually to complain. Krauss gets great reviews here on Houzz. Ruvatti I have heard is good as well. Elkay, Bianco, Kohler, all great sinks. But there will always be an occasional manufacturers defect. I don’t think you could go wrong with any of these brands. But if you get a lemon, these companies are all reputable and will take them back.

Personally, I would not have anything other than a stainless steel sink.
javiwa
6 years ago
While SS sinks should not rust, I can't believe folks would downgrade a sink because it got scratched -- it's a sink, for pete's sake. Sinks scratch...it's fine. For the record, we have a Kraus.

Good luck with your reno!
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We did this, and after a year we have no issues. We love it! We sealed our countertops with a hardwax oil product called Rubio Monocoat that's often used on wood floors but is foodsafe. Unlike with Waterlox, we can spot sand and refinish easily, but unlike with mineral oil only, we don't HAVE to re-oil every month. In fact, a year in, we are just starting to look at the finish and think that in the coming months we might retouch a few sections that have seen really heavy traffic. Standing water generally beads and evaporates, scratches can get buffed out, and we are just very careful around the faucet to make sure it's wiped dry every time we are using the sink. Ditto with staining things; we are careful to wipe up and not let red wine or balsamic vinegar, etc sit. But we're not eagle-eyed about it or on top of every drop the second it hits the surface. Just when we're cleaning up. I try not to let wet dishes sit on the counter, that sort of thing. The great thing about wood and the hardwax oil finishes are that--unlike granite or stone--if the section around the sink ever did get irreparably water damaged, you can cut out and replace a section, too...and with way less weight and expense. We have no regrets at all.
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I disagree with Joseph. A 30" cabinet is not 30" inside. A so-called 30" sink indeed need close to 30" to mount. It may not fit. Fortunately, Melody has a 27" sink, not a 30" one. It should fit no problem in her cabinet. If by "dishwasher outlet" you're talking about the receptacle for the dishwasher, as long as the plug will fit into it and you can reach it, it should be OK. If the plug itself is the disconnect, it's required to be visible to the guy working on the dishwasher, but a unplugged-plug is going to be pretty easy to see even if the receptacle itself isn't. The other thing to consider (since this was in the plumbing in addition to the electrical forum) is to make sure whatever disposal/tailpiece you're using will meet up with the drain line from the dishwasher.
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Stacey Collins
Original Author
6 years ago
Thanks!! I'm now stuck on the faucet, ugh. I'll start another thread? Or is it better to keep it here?
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
6 years ago
304 stainless steel is 304 stainless steel or it isn't. It doesn't rust, but it does scratch. I just took a ding/scratch out of a sink I'd just unboxed for a customer. They never knew.

The critical thing is how the sink is attached to the bottom of the top. All my sinks are strapped, no clips, no brackets, no blocking. No leaks or callbacks either.
PRO
Mint tile Minneapolis
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
All my sinks are strapped, no clips, no brackets, no blocking.

In regards to mounting always refer to MFG specs some require siliconed flange and zink/lead epoxy'd ferrules w/clips stainless screws to undermount .
PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
6 years ago
Sink manufacturers have a different agenda than homeowners and contractors. Sink manufacturers don't want to get a call that fat plumber hands can't squeeze between the sink and cabinet sides to tighten their specified clips, so they tell everyone that a 33" sink needs a 36" cabinet. It does not if you don't need to get your hands in to tighten the clips, and you don't if you strap. There isn't an engineer on earth that's going to say that straps are inadequate to support a sink.

Some engineered stone manufacturers prohibit the installation of insert style studs for clips. So you have the sink manufacturer specifying a method prohibited by your estone manufacturer. Straps make 'em both happy.

Homeowners want a 33" sink installed in a 33" cabinet on their agenda. Contractors want to make money with the advantage of being able to do so while their competitors say it's "impossible". (Happened last week.) Lots of industry innovations happen when reputable contractors, seeking competitive advantage and profits, carefully disregard manufacturer's specifications. Corian seams would still be filled with silicone were it up the the engineers at DuPont and thermoforming would not exist.
PRO
Mint tile Minneapolis
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
Sounds A lot like tennis, you get to play both sides of the court here on houzz..:)

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