Would you work w/ this builder under these conditions?
Steve Daigneault
6 years ago
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Raised Bed Filled W/ 'Conditioned' Native Clay Soil?
Comments (6)I'm not sure what you read that made you so pesimistic. I will tell you that I certainly felt that way to start with. I live in the NC piedmont which stands for a deep vein of red heavy clay soil. White clay is even worse as it indicates that air can't get into the small particles and rust the iron to red. However it is plenty hard and slimy clay like when wet. We have the largest hand thrown pottery community here. Thirty miles south, the soil turns to sand and the interface is the brick capital of the country! I doesn't appear that anything except grass will grow in this soil. However, if ammended heavily with bulk, it does wonderfully as it holds water and nutrients extremely well. We are in the country. I found a cattleman who has cow manure/bedding piled up and mixed after being mucked out of the barns. I bought a dump truck load (I actually bought two and moved it multiple places later) and had a third to a half of it dumped in my ~25' x 35' garden and tilled it in. That could have been between 6 to 10 cu yds of black composted manure. That changed the texture of the soil and it is still there after 6+ years. Gas was much cheaper then and it cost me $60 for delivery and $50 for the manure. Would be much more now for delivery....See MoreBuilders sand? would sand from the pasture work?
Comments (9)Almost all plants in an Alpine garden needs a slope. Usually rocks are used to support the slope. Drainage is paramount, no matter how you achieve it. Adding sand to good loam or clay and you get stucco if you have no slope and it retains water. Free draining is the key. Build your berm as high as you are able. Some alpine plants prefer limestone based soil and some prefer acid. Some don't care what the ph is. I smear mud on rocks, plop some sedums on it, and walk away. You can arrange the rocks as in a rock outcropping, dump gravel between them , squeeze a few plant in, and watch things grow. An alpine garden does not need plants wall to wall. Mike This next picture isn't meant to look good, but to show how sedums and succulents can be grown in even the most adverse conditions. Here they are growing on wood and rocks with just a minimum amount of soil. Friends come by and add or subtract stuff all the time. I'm not in charge. lol Ignore the telephone booth. It's a joke. I'm still trying to find an appropriate place for it. Mike Here's another part of the garden that looks a little alpine. It needs a major makeover as I haven't touched it in about two years. Time constraints, you know. I have done nothing to the soil except give it a slope. It's good loam on the acid side. Mike...on vacation...See Morebasil condition, please help me diagnose them...[w/ pics]
Comments (4)I'm not sure what it is either, but what kind of lights are you gorwing them under? You might want to try some T12 or T8 flourescent lights. Also, I have some other plants doing pretty well under a 75wt compact pigtail flourescent, which is equal to 300 watts. I only grow basil outside though because it thirves outdoors where I live. I'm not an advanced garder or anything, but all I can recommend is when gowing indoors try to mimic the plants natural outdoor habitat it thrives in. I'm in a southern Texas costal area. It's very HOT (about 100F every day), very HUMID (about 60% day 90%+ at night), and I water them a lot but mainly because of the heat. Also have you put any fetilizer in them? I know some people don't with herbs, but I would give them at least 1 shot since they're looking sickly. Lastly, on the cutting you're trying to root... I always root my cuttings in peat pellets. I see a lot of people on these boards hate them, but I love them and have always had great success with them. They were recommended to me by an extremly tallented gardener. Make sure you got a stem and not just a leaf. There is rooting hormone gel or powder. I take my cuttings, dip them in root hormone, and then stick them in a peat pellet. I set them in trays with a clear lid over them and place under T8 flourescent lights until the roots start coming out. I've made 3 basil plants off my 1 original 1 that are all flourishing. I have no idea what your climate is like right now, but you should go to a local nursery or growing supply store and even take your plant or pictures. You could also check the pH of your soil and water to make sure they're okay. Where I live out water is alkaline, so I put pine needles in my pots to balance it out. Good luck with your project....See MoreWould this appliance change work w/o total remodel?
Comments (22)Q-What is just to the right of the wall oven today? A- To the right of the wall oven is the doorway into the dining room. I agree with buehl that the current place of the cooktop is terrible. It seems that anyone walking by could brush their arm against a flame. I'd want to do something about it right away. I was thinking about the original question of removing the wall oven and filling that space with a range + micro. These things popped into my mind: - I assume there is some type of 'wall' barrier to the right of the wall oven today, right? So, was your husband suggesting to retain the cabinet/wall structures that are currently around the wall ovens, and slipping in the range/micro combo between the two 'walls'? - If his idea was to retain those wall structures, then potentially the right hand oven 'wall' would be a safety barrier between anyone walking through that doorway and the new range. However, you would probably have to remove the left hand oven 'wall' so that you have a landing place to the left of the new range. And buehl pointed out the need for air flow. Is the wall oven gas now? If gas, do you know what logistics it takes to remove it? I think that if you were to take the stop gap measure to put a freestanding range/micro there, it might have to be electric. I don't know if you could safely have a gas freestanding range with cabinet-like walls around it. You'd have to consult the installation booklet for the electric range to find out how close it can be to any combustible material on the side. If it is a freestanding electric range, I believe that it can be right up against a combustible item (for example, cabinet wall or house wall--I'm going by my own freestanding range's booket). Buehl is probably right about the building code if the range is gas; however, for a job of removing a wall oven and putting in an electrical outlet into which you plug in a new freestanding range, I am wondering if you'd even have to get a permit and have an inspection of that new range. I mean, if the wall oven is gas, there might need to be a permit for a gas pipe person to disconnect the gas, and if there's not a suitable electric receptacle for the new range, then you'd need an electrician to install one, and he'd need to get a permit to install the circuit/line for that new receptacle. But after that work is done and it's an empty space with an electric receptacle, and you buy a range and put it in position, I doubt there's any building office requirement where you call an inspector to come and inspect where you plugged in the new range. I guess what I'm saying is that if there's some 'wall' to the right of the wall oven space that you can keep to protect people from walking through that doorway and into your burners, and if you remove the left hand 'wall' so you have a landing space to the left of the range and proper air flow, then I can see how your husband's idea might work. It would get......See MoreSteve Daigneault
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