Thanks! Im not sure what that means, but I assume I will need a new connection all together? The place where the range sits currently has both a 120v and a 240v outlet, the new cooktop only needs the 120v.

It depends on whether it reaches where the ovens are going. Worst case the electrician runs a new line not a big deal

• A splice of new circuit wires to existing wires CAN be made inside an accessible junction box as follows:

  • Match the wires together which are of the same color.
  • Strip off the insulation of each wire about an inch.
  • Twist the wires together in the clockwise direction.
  • Trim off the wires evenly.
  • Place a wire connector on the spliced wires.

• In "layman's" terms...the existing outlet will be replaced with a junction box, existing wires go into the junction box, extended new wires connect to existing wires inside the junction box, new wires now travel to the new 240V desired location and are wired into the new plug (receptacle).

• Hope this helps!

Its best to consult an onsite electrician. There are a few factors that may or may not allow you do this such as the amperage requirements of the new oven and the rating of the installed cable, if the wires will reach and if not how much would it take in relations to just running a whole new wire. My assumptions are that the outlet is in the wall which means additional wire is needed.

Hi there, if you are not too comfortable attempting this yourself, it is something an electrician can easily do, although it most likely will not be too cheap since it is going to involve a bit of effort. If I were moving a 240 outlet, I'd do the following:

1. As mentioned above, confirm the gauge of wire in the existing junction box is rated for the ampacity required of the new oven. I'd confirm the physical gauge itself and the breaker rating as well. You never know. Hopefully the wire in there now is type THHN, and the gauge is printed on the wire sheath.

2. Confirm wiring type. For 240v, you should have two hot wires, both black or one black and one red, a neutral (white), and you may or may not have a grounding wire (bare or green). Sometimes if steel conduit is used, it is also used as ground from a metal junction box.

3. Run wiring to new location. If you are moving the outlet to a completely new wall, I would cut the wire up in the attic, create a junction box up there, and then new wires down to the new wall. Assuming you have fire breaks in your walls, you won't just be able to fishtape down to where the outlet needs to be, meaning you or electrician will be knocking several holes in the drywall. If you are moving outlet a few feet along the same wall, I would do as mentioned above and use existing junction box to extend to the new location and put a blank plate over the old location when done making the connections. This will involve some drywall cutting as well.

At the end of the day it's fairly straightforward, but a tad labor intensive considering it's just one outlet. Good luck!

Yes hired an electrician

Incorrect information above.

You can use an existing grandfathered 3 wire circuit as is. If the wires reach. But you cannot do a Jbox and extend a 3 wire. It’s all or none. All new circuits for 240 volt appliances require Hot, Hot, Ground, and Neutral. No more bonding the Ground and the Neutral as was done with the old 3 wire circuits. That’s only grandfathered with the existing circuit, as is. You touch it to alter it, and it has to meet the “new” code. Which was 1998 or thereabouts.

You need an entirely new circuit. If the space in your box is limited, that may mean removing the old circuit to get the breaker space rather than just adding another circuit.

The box still has a lot of space I believe, I will be doing this all through a certified electrician, I just wanted to get an idea of what to expect. I understand that I should expect to get a all new connection made. Thank you everyone, the current wires from the box all run up one spot from the unfinished basement, will the new wire also take this route or will they route it through the basement ceiling towards the kitchen to avoid cutting into drywall? Thanks once again

Your hired electrician will make the route determination upon inspecting the whole in person.

If the basement is unfinished, I would expect they would take that route, unless there is something prohibitive in doing so, and might even be able to re-use what you have. Of course as already mentioned, there are many variables that will determine what can or cannot be re-used. I would suggest you get at least a couple quotes for the work, and assuming that each company will suggesting the same or similar work, then choose by price and comfortability with the electrician. If they are suggesting different options, ask why, and make sure they explain why, not just say because that's what's easiest or cheapest. Choose the one that provides the best detail that is going to do the work correctly, not necessarily on who is cheapest. It generally costs more up front to do things the right way, but it will normally pay for itself in the long run.

This is not a question for the random pro with no electrical experience on the internet, and you CAN splice or extend the circuit. Moving it is the same as adding or extending by the NEC. You have not said how old your house or the wiring to the 15 year old remodel is. A "3 wire circuit" in the electrical industry indicates the number of current carrying conductors. The cable may also have a grounding wire plus 3 current carrying conductors, and still be called a 3 wire circuit.. You can never tell if the cable has a grounding wire by looking at how many holes are in the outlet. The cable required for ranges generally had a grounding wire included at least nine years before the receptacle and appliance cord were required to be of the separately grounding type. The outlet box may even be grounded using the grounding wire. If the wiring is less than 35 years old, I would expect, but not guarantee, that the cable had a separate grounding wire even if the receptacle and plug only had 3 holes/prongs.

Notice how the number "3" only refers to the current carrying conductors, and not the fourth ground wire.