akaylor You can not achieve the performance/eff capability of the XR15 condenser with a sgl stg conventional blower furnace. It is the same for paying for something that you don't get. 2 suggestions. Upgrade to the XV95 two stg var speed furnace or drop down to the XR13 condenser. What was included in quote? New refrigerant line set? What about filter cabinet? What mdl evap coil was included with quote? What size furnace and AC are you replacing? IMO

Doing NADA or online values aren't accurate because after that time each home is in a different condition. Look for a manufactured home appraiser and pay for an accurate value.

In my experience (only done this twice, lol).... 1 - There should be no surprises at the table -- meaning all of the rates, final purchase price, etc. should already be discussed/approved -- provided that you don't go out and buy a new car/appliances/lose your job before closing. 2 - I doubt it. 5-10 points is nothing in the grand scheme of things. 3 - I'd finance with whomever I felt most comfortable, assuming you have the remaining 30% down payment to use the builder's financing. My husband and I just closed in August 2017 on a new construction production/tract home (Gehan), and we were all set to *not* use the builder's mortgage company because when we asked about a specific loan type, we were told we didn't qualify. So we went shopping, and other mortgage lenders said we qualified *no problem*. We confronted the builder's lender, and they totally backpedaled, claiming that the associate who was "helping" us no longer worked for the company, etc., etc., etc. Moral of the story? Get competitive offers to keep the builder's lender honest. 4a - You didn't ask, lol, but I'd like to add the following. Use local comparable sales of existing homes as your "budget." This protects you from overbuilding in the neighborhood (and possibly not qualifying at closing). Visit the Design Center ahead of time, making your selections and pricing everything out while keeping your comps-based budget in mind, before your actual appointment. 4b - Speaking of the Design Center, try to upgrade as little as possible (or not at all) for interior design stuff like paint, light/plumbing fixtures, flooring, or even cabinetry/counter tops. Upgrade insulation, add windows (if you can), increase your electrical service, etc... You know, all of the structural things that are impossible/total pain to change later. :-D

Didnt the inspector give any ballpark nos. and ideas on how these problems can be addressed? If he wasnt sure about the structural defect, then did he refer you to someone who could give you answers? If not - then I think you want to shop around for a more savvy inspector. Some of them are pretty lame and not particularly helpful. Look for someone knowledgeable about and loves old houses. Conceivably this (or any) house can be worth it.... IF you get it at the right price. In the case of structural defects, if it costs say $20,000 to fix it then that determines what your offer is, assuming you really want the house and the repair looks pretty straightforward. Ive heard it said that you take the estimate and add 50% for unforeseen hassles - in some situations that might be wise. Thats where a good inspector who you trust comes in - you need someone you can rely on for accurate info so that you can make these decisions. Maybe the house is worth the hassle, maybe not. Your agent too should be able to help re: deciding how much cost of repair you will ask the seller vs. how much you will pay yourself. Conceivably they've already lowered selling price to reflect the defects - your agent should be able to advise. I see your post was 2 wks ago - did you decided? We are dying of curiousity out here - did you get it, or walk?