First, get a basic router book, one that explains the types and what ways they can be used. Look at kits that contain fixed and plunge bases plus the router motor. Porter Cable 690 series is a long time successful design, but DeWalt and Makita have good kits also. Small and inexpensive router tables are usually frustrating to use. My experience is that buying a router(kit) and then getting educated on buying a top and building a table is a much better process. Starter bit kits generally have 12 bits---of which you will use maybe 5-6 tops. Kits of different sizes of the same design---roundover bits, for instance---make more sense. But, to start, buy several bits with pilot bearings(no table needed to use)---I'd recommend a straight, cove, ogee, chamfer, 2 different sizes of roundover, and maybe a couple of profile bits you like. I also recommend buying a router that allows 1/2" shank bits to be used(the above kits all have that feature as well as 1/4" shank capability) since the 1/2" shank bits are much safer for learning---that diameter shank seldom if ever breaks. A clamp on straight edge, simple or one that had a guide and mounts for router/circular saw is also a good addition.

Boxerpups, I needed those images. Thanks so much! Isn't it amazing how a simple image can clarify so many things? Am reminded about the architect Sarah Susanka's comment that bookshelves are like wonderful wallpaper. I hope that my cookbook collection and the other items I need to store on shelves will function in that way. Was on a road trip to a wedding recently and had lots of time to make sketches. I have a better idea of my bookcase options now, but hadn't been able to picture the moldings and such. These images are very helpful. The red-painted shelf units with the curved trim are so intriguing. Wonder how they suspend those long shelves? Or did they make a vow to only store lightweight stuff? The images of various same-width multiple shelf units are extremely helpful; You're a painted cabinetry gal, aren't you? I am trying to imagine them in oak instead of paint. These regular soldier-like niches are likely what we'll end up doing. The over-the-door shelf is something I had considered but DH vetoed. Now that he's sat with me looking at your images, it's back in consideration again. I am supposedly working on the denoument of this project's planning but am still dithering about cabinet glass for my kitchen so I went to a local glass company to talk. They said they make lots of glass doors for labs, businesses, etc. I think that they would help me with sliding glass doors for bookshelf if I want them. They are in the custom glass etching business so they can even temper and etch decorative (textured) glass, which would allow me to get a strong, textured, opaque effect for lower shelves that may accumulate junky stuff. It would be expensive, but extremely distinctive. (This added to my dithering and got me off track, again.) [Confession time: Problem is further compounded by seeing an antique piece that would work in that space also. Unfortunately, when he was working on wallboard phase, DH refused to wallboard the back side of the bookcase space when it would have been easiest to do it, claiming that it would be redundant work. So there are literally a number of holes into the inside of the wall on the back of the bookcase niche to contend with if I win the piece at auction. Am in another quandry. Best solution: stay out of auctions and antique shops and estate sales.] ___ Leel: would love to learn more about the steel shelves you have used. Sources?

Ebay , liberty hardware online , Amazon, D Lawless hardware , knob deals.

The cabinet finish has to also be taken into consideration. No they don't have to match but they should coordinate.