Why is engineered wood floor crowning?
winonelson
6 years ago
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6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoRelated Discussions
Why Engineered Wood Floors?
Comments (1)A little education to help you here. Engineered is more stable to changing climate conditions. Most engineered floors can be refinished 3 times. Engineered hardwood is a veneered product adhered to cross ply construction hardwoods making it much more difficult to expand and contract. Engineered floors normally can be installed below grade. Some veneered furniture is the most expensive and detailed available.Engineered normally is less money when comparing apples to apples as it takes less tree to make.Solid flooring can only be refinished to a point above the fasteners. Many engineered can be glued, stapled. or floated. There is a growing percentage of requests for floating hardwoods as it is DYI friendly. Many people such as I in the industry prefer engineered because of the extra stability in a High to low Humidity region. Some engineered floors no longer require acclimation by manufacturer warranty which makes an additional claim to verify structural stability. In existing homes the thinner floor can be an asset to keep floor height elevation under control and makes for an easier transition to other products. Engineered is preferred by many for use on a slab foundation even though most solid hardwoods are approved for on grade installation. Lots of reasons I guess. Hope this helps....See MoreHardwood flooring versus engineered wood floors in kitchen
Comments (23)I've dealt with 30 year old engineered floors with the original finish, and a couple of screening and topcoating over it. If you take care of floors and don't let kids play roller hockey indoors, you too will never need to do a sand and refinish. The idea of "refinishing" as a criteria for choosing your floors is not really a valid concern. Choose a quality major brand, and you won't have any worries. No LL or box store crapola. $5-6 a square foot and up is where the good stuff starts. Under that, you can get some OK buys, but you're generally gonna have to do a lot more homework to make sure. So, what does "taking care of your floors" entail? Vacuuming a couple of times a week. Not allowing food and drink outside of the kitchen. Using rugs at all entries to capture the dirt from outside. Being a no shoes indoor household helps a lot too, but I'm not going to get into that classic arguement. Don't mop your floors. You can damp clean them, but people get all hung up over sloshing water on top of wood, and that's just a comple no no. Use something like a Bona cleaner a couple of times a month, max. Every other type of cleaning should be spot cleaning. But with food and drink confined to the appropriate spot, spills are minimized. Abrasion from debris is minimized by rugs that you frequently clean. And in 8-12 years, you do a refresher of a screening and recoating. You don't need to sand down to bare wood at all. Unless you don't do the above and wear through to bare wood....See MoreGlued down engineered wood floors have hollow spots and popping
Comments (16)Sorry, I misread the statement. The humidity in SUMMER was 20% (too low) and the humidity NOW is 43% (perfect)??? That's a bit odd. Usually it is the reverse (winter is dry and and summer is often humid). So we still have an issue with maintaining humidity, it is just the reverse of what I described above. Again - HOLLOW sound is from lack of preparation where "low spots" in the concrete could have/should have been filled. So your summer humidity levels are low (and the floors were installed during the driest time of the year) and now the floors are sitting in "perfect" conditions (43% humidity). The other issue is the adhesive use and coverage rate for the slab you have. The COVERAGE rate is how much glue is used to get the floor to stick. Too little and the floor won't GRAB the concrete. This is where there *MIGHT be another issue with the installation. If you feel you want to have the installer pull up a plank to see how much COVERAGE there was during the initial install, then you are within your rights to ask for a piece or two be lifted (do this at an edge so that it is easier to see). If you do this, make SURE you have enough planks on hand to repair the areas....it is possible the planks will be damaged in the process. The installation directions for the glue indicate the planks MUST be 90% covered in glue (the installer is supposed to check this periodically). That's what you are looking for = 90% of the plank COVERED in glue. http://www.royaladhesives.com/Files/Fortane/Fortane_One-TDS_08222016Rev1.pdf Then there is ONE MORE thing to check - the instructions for the hardwood floor you purchased. The floor will have installation instructions. So long as "glue down" is allowed as an installation format (most engineered are allowed to be glued....but not all) then we can eliminate the wood itself as the problem (ie. wrong product installed in the wrong way). Good luck. Have the installer check the GLUE coverage...(a few planks can be pulled at the wall edge to see how much coverage the back of the planks have). And check the installation for the HARDWOOD just to make sure the glue down option is listed. If all of it checks out, then the humidity control is going to be the only other thing you can do for your floor (other than rip it out and start again)....See MoreSolid wood, engineered wood flooring , LVT?
Comments (9)I had tile in my last home and moved to a home with carpet everywhere but the kitchen (yes, even the bathrooms had carpet (yuk)). After 20 years my joints could not withstand the impact of living on tile floors. Choices were to replace the carpet with Carpet - It is soft and quiet. It gets dirty and is hard to get clean. Muddy paws from an active puppy while delandscaping the yard was a nightmare. Hardwood - much more expensive - harder than tile or LVT to maintain, would require purchase of area carpets to protect. LVT - cost efficient - low maintenance, limited lifespan (20 years ish) I'm 59 - 20 years I won't be able to see what it looks like. Can add area carpets for aesthetics, but can eliminate the trip hazards of area carpets as I age in place. Engineered hardwood seemed to have the same cons as hardwood, but cannot be refinished over and over again - thin layer of wood. I decided to replace the carpet with LVT, I am doing one room at a time as I renovate, but am very happy with my choice. I bought Downs H20 from Cloister's Flooring America. It is waterproof and is manufactured by Coretech for the CCA Family of flooring companies. Same product, different name at each company website. Different price at each store (store not company level, two different Flooring America franchises had 2 different prices). Difference from highest price to lowest price was a difference of $2.00 per sq ft - I was covering 2000 sf, so this was a substantial savings. I loved the franchise I picked - Cloister's Flooring America. Other franchises really pushed the professional install - Cloister's seems to cater to the DYI folks (Owned by a Mennonite family). For $75.00 they send one of their installers out for 2 hours to teach you how to lay the flooring and they will rent you a tool kits that has everything you need to lay your floors. I bought one box of each of two colors and could exchange the one I didn't pick when placing my full order. I also got an additional $500 off because I hadn't placed my order yet and they called because they were having an anniversary sale. I hadn't called because I had a heart attack and was in the hospital when I got the call. They gave me the $500 off and told me I could call when I was home and feeling up to ordering even though the sale was just for the week. They even helped me with the layout plan. Told me to use graph paper and tracing paper. I drew out my floor plan on graph paper and traced the outline of the flooring pattern on the tracing paper. You place the tracing paper over the floor plan and move it around until you have a placement that doesn't leave you with little 2" strips anywhere. You do have to be exacting in your measurement and drawing of the floor plan and lay out enough pieces to get exact measurements for your tracing. I didn't find this method on the internet anywhere - most have you plan from the center of the room, but this worked out really well for me....See Morewinonelson
6 years agowinonelson
6 years agojosephene_gw
6 years agoUser
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoG & S Floor Service
6 years agowinonelson
6 years agowinonelson
6 years agoG & S Floor Service
6 years agoUser
6 years agoUser
6 years ago
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