Vikings game....do I have a pulse?!!??!
Faron79
6 years ago
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loonlakelaborcamp
6 years agoFaron79
6 years agoRelated Discussions
induction cooktops
Comments (12)I just did some more testing. Yes, I'm obsessive and perhaps I need some happy pills to fix that, but that's a whole other topic... :P Almost everyone has had universally positive experiences with their De Dietrich, so I'm trying to figure out why I'm having these issues with the two cooktops I've used. I boiled two pots of water today, one on the large burner and one on its mated smaller burner. Let me share my experience as it relates to my above post: You actually can run two burners in the same power zone on high (level 15), it just takes longer to achieve the same level of heat because the power is pulsing between the two burners instead of providing a steady stream when you use just one burner. The visible manifestation of this is if you have a rolling boil on one burner and then turn up the adjacent burner, the rolling boil becomes a simmer because the power now starts pulsing. BUT the rolling boil will eventually return -- it just takes longer. Saying that 12 effectively becomes 6 wasn't exactly correct -- more specifically, you are still getting 12 but in fast intervals of what sounded like 4 or 5 times per second. You can hear it pulsing. This has the effect of initially reducing your cooking power, but in 10-15 seconds your pot will seemingly return to the same level of cooking. Switching any burner to boost limits the other burner in the same power zone to a maximum power of 8. What seems like overheating may not be. After cooking for some time, the internals heat up and hot air starts spewing out the front vent -- this is how it is supposed to work. When it gets hot, however, switching from a lower to a higher power level takes 10-15 seconds longer than it does when the unit is cold. When it's cold, power changes are instantaneous. When the unit has heated up and is venting hot air, power changes take by 10-15 seconds as the unit "ramps up" the power. Why this happens is anyone's guess, I suppose it has to do with making sure the electronics are safeguarded when they are already quite warm. This behavior is consistent across zones and across multiple cooktops, so it seems to be normal behavior. My old unit had a lot more trouble ramping up to full power than my new unit -- sometimes it would never increase the power at all, no matter how long you waited. So, I may have mistook several visible indicators and drawn some false conclusions. I'm one of those people who has to figure out how the darn thing works and why it does what it does! In short, my experience with induction isn't as much disappointing as it is confusing. There seem to be some quirks, and once you understand those quirks you can get on with cooking. Despite comparisons to gas, it is not like gas in that you can't just do what you want to do on any burner and expect it to react accordingly and swiftly -- there are limitations that become quite obvious once you start using induction. It's not universally as fast as gas -- it is when it's cold, but when the......See MoreI need a gas range for the new century
Comments (21)suzanne, the pilot light... My DH and I had this conversation a while back when we had to replace our oven ignitor.... An option is a true commercial range with a pilot in the oven.... (are you allowed to do that?) If you are set on a pilot oven, I would look into it. Most modern gas ovens use a ceramic glow plug type of ignitor. These will burn out after so many cycles of lighting. (There are only so many variations on these parts and they are similar in performance. There are no ignitors that last forever. I replaced my Viking ignitor with el cheapo after marker part and it works fine.) If you or the spouse is DIY sort, then you can replace these for about $50 to $100 (Viking part would have cost me $300, yikes!). If not, you gotta call the service guy, which is always a few hundred dollars please... This is what makes owning "all gas oven" expensive this day and age. (your gas furnace will have the similar repair record if you switch to efficient pilotless furnace.) There goes your savings from the efficiency that "compounded" for a few years. So for your total pocket book cost, there is absolutely no savings from the increased efficiency. Some brands may have a better "performance" on this part than others but you will have to deal with it in decades of owning the oven eventually. They simply don't make ovens with pilot light anymore, as were the vintage ranges. Even the "new" vintage looking gas ranges don't have a pilot light. Pilot lights are much simpler way of dealing with ignition. The electronic ignitor is the same part (all of them look almost identical) that turns on your gas furnace, gas BBQ etc. (Maybe this is a reason to stick to a true vintage range with pilot light... Hm) all gas ranges are just about the simplest thing there is. You have an ignitor plus a flame adjustor, which is often a mechanical valve for letting more gas to the burner. Even if you don't have electricity, you can use a match to cook. All new gas cooktops come with electronic clicky starter. Even if that goes out, you can just use a match and start the coktop. My partner has an ancient Wolf gas cooktop that has burned out the electronic starter many years ago and he uses matches.... Cheaper than calling in the dude to fix it. Prostyle ranges such as Viking and Bluestar come in many tens of colors. They also come in 24 inch, which may help your tiny kitchen remodel. (not sure about Wolf) I would NOT say that your only option is SS. Yes, there is that issue of "cost". For example, if you can find an all gas pro style range used, it should last you a long time.... Again, the infrared gas broiler uses a similar type of ignitor with a mesh of ceramic that heats up instead of a burner. There are no electronics per se to break down but there is that ignitor once again will go out.... Then, there is a fan for convection. Electrical motors are rather sturdy beasts and do not go out too often.... Even if the convection fan went, out you CAN still bake without it. I used to have a gas range with the control behind the stove. That range needed to have the computer panel replaced after a few years, which we did ourselves... They are ugly and impractical. You already seem to know the limitations. I suggest getting open burners(which I agree with Amcook but that is another story) and with something that has minimal electronics.... Viking, Wolf and Bluestar are options. My "colored" Viking all gas range with open burners practically has NOTHING built in it. There simply is not much to break.... No self clean. No temp probe. No timer etc etc. I am keeping it at 10 year mark even though I am remodeling and spending many $ for the entire kitchen. There is nothing wrong with it. I can't see myself doing better at this point.... I think I would have replaced it if it was SS....See MoreNew Viking stuff
Comments (9)hv -- the question to answer about this new Viking oven is how different it is from the old ones. Yes, a new company has taken over and the response has improved but issues remain. Past Viking ovens worked by temperture averaging. Does the new one? The oven exhaust was located directly below the control panel. That became too hot to touch and, eventually, the electronics were fried. Where's the exhaust on this one? Does this new oven have a sensor or just the little old-fashioned coil? Another issue in the past with Viking was the disconnect between what was actually going on in the appliance vs the schematics. I stood there with a tech trying to use the diagram to fix something and finding nothing inside that oven resembled the diagram. When he called the company for guidance, no one in the factory could sort it out. Is this oven made in the same factory as past ovens? Also, I'd suggest she go to the appliance store, open the oven, and see if she can handle the weight of the oven racks. The ones on my old oven were so heavy they were a complete PITA to remove and clean. Recently, my fridge was recalled for the second time. The door hinge had broken and it was a dangerous situation. It took 2 for the "new" Viking to get the hinge kit sent out. The first call was ignored. Nothing happened -- this is the new service company. They did not send one of their company-trained techs to make the repair -- those have been fired in our area. During the course of my query about what might be wrong with the door I thought I might need a part for a crisper drawer. They were very prompt in helping me try to order it and sent me a diagram of the drawer. The diagram was so bad it really was impossible to know what I might/might not have been ordering. And the parts people could not help me as they didn't know the appliances well enough. These days, I know opinions/beliefs/desires often overpower facts. You tell someone why something is not a good idea but they want it anyway. Hope for your sake that's not the case here and she will listen....See MoreInduction - pan size vs. surface size (& new Viking 36" Induction)
Comments (7)I do not have this unit and am not recalling seeing much about this 36" Viking model here in the last couple of years since this thread was active. You might have better luck attracting responses from current owners and users here if you started a thread of your own and put the model number in your thread title. As for using your large LC pans, I'm not sure I know what you are asking. Have you used induction before? If not, maybe you are not quite understanding how to ask the questions. Let me take a stab at what you might be asking. * Are you asking if the full size Viking induction cooktops like this one have the same problem recognizing LC pans that that the old Viking single-burner portable induction cooktop units (PICs) once had back in the previous decade? The answer to that is that the full size cooktops and the Viking induction ranges have never had that problem. The problem was limited to those old and long discontinued PIC models. * Or, are you asking if there will be a problem operating a burner with a pan larger than a particular induction hob space. Say, your LC pans have 12" diameter bases overtop the 9" square hob spaces of the Viking cooktop? The answer is that your LC pans will all work, but may intrude sufficiently into the adjoining hob spaces that the LC pans don't leave enough space for pans on the other three burners. For example, maybe you want to use a couple of 12" LC frypans --- one on the front right hob and another on the left front hob --- and then want to plant a large LC dutch oven on the middle hob in the back. So, how big are the pans you want to use at the same time on the other three burners? For that matter, how often do you figure you will be using all six burners at the same time and need to be running two or three 12" diameter (or larger) LC pans? Frankly, the best thing to do to find out how the cooktop will or will not work is to take your array of pans to a dealer and see if and how they all fit. If you can't find a showroom example, try using the dimensions shown on the installation instructions to draw a full scale layout with a sharpie or magic marker on a piece of newspaper. * Or, are you asking if a nine-inch square induction hob will evenly heat the entire base of a large LC pot or pan with, say, a 12" diameter (or larger) base. The answer is that you will have the same behavior with LC pans that you will have with any cast iron pan on any burner (gas, electric, or induction). IOW, no problem with braises, soups and stews, where you have liquid to even out the heat, but you will need lengthy pre-heating to get an even spread of heat across any cast-iron base when you want perfectly uniform heating as for searing or browning out to the edges of the base. This is a property of all cast iron, not just LC. If the VIking cooktop had some burners with larger diameter induction fields (large enough to encompass the entire base of your big LC pans) the cast iron would still heat unevenly. Preheating to evenness might take a bit less time with the larger burner, but it still will take quite a while. That's just the nature of cast iron cookware. FWIW, Cook's Illustrated has been recommending that you put cast iron pans in a hot oven for a half hour or longer to preheat CI skillets for stovetop searing like cooking steaks. Then you run the stovetop at lesser heat which is sufficient to maintian the searing temps for the cooking session. Again, the preheating and unevenness will be no big deal for tasks like braising, boiling water, deep fat frying, stocks, soups and stews with a lot of liquid. Probably not a problem, either, for making a very long simmered tomatoey ragu or long-cooking of beans. But where you will need workarounds will be for stir fries or browning where you need every square inch of base surface to be perfectly evenly heated for the meat or bacon or veggies or whatever that you want to brown. Again, you would need the same workarounds with any stove where the burners are not sized for large pans, whether gas or regular electric burners as well as induction....See Moreloonlakelaborcamp
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Faron79Original Author