Home humidity levels....how do you rate?
8 years ago
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- 8 years ago
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How do you tell an existing client you want to raise the rate
Comments (8)Just raise the price and if you R better than her last cleaning person she will pay the rate increase. Most of the people for which we clean have jobs where their medical insurance is taken care of and all of their taxes are taken out from their pay check. If 1 is self-employed, we pay our own and pay higher % in taxes as the IRS thinks that we R not paying what we should. I never take cash, only a check. I don't want any problems with the IRS. The thing is that I do give a full report to the Gov. and declare everything. I also use all of my deductions. I don't know where U live or what U charge but I just raised all by $50 to $75 and there was not a problem. The cheapest condo is $200 and the most $$$ house is $400. They had not problem. I have been with them 4 years and they did not even care. I have been with some of these people for 17 years or more and they really don't care. For what I do the will not be able to find any one as good. They even fly me to open their houses so they don't have to deal with a servcie. If U R good at what U do just raise them! Why would U have to defend yourself?!!! Steve...See MoreExcessive Humidity In House
Comments (11)When you raise the inside temp this allows more mositure to be absorbed by the warmer air and hence the reduced rel humidity. You would be much better off with multiple DH's to remove the moisture. With your house size, more than 1 portable unit will be needed but you can incrementally add. You need to get the humidity down to prevent any mold growth. The Energy Recovery Vent or Heat Recovery Vent is a fan that sucks in fresh air from outside the house in exchange for stale air that is removed from inside the house. When this exchange is made, the stale and fresh air connected thermally (they are in seperate tubes that are wrapped around each other inside the machine) so that the heat from the stale air going out is used to warm the fresh cold air coming in (the opposite occurs when running the AC). A good ERV or HRV will be 85% efficient in this energy exchange. The ERV/HRV does not consume a lot of power - maybe the equivalent of a 100 to 200 watt light bulb. Ventilation is a critical but often overlooked part of the HVAC system. If you have a tight house, you need to find a way of bringing in fresh air and exhausting stale air. The ERV/HRV helps you do that while minimizing the loss of energy expended to heat or cool the inside of your house. if you go to the www.iaqsource.com web site, click on the Ventilation HRV/ERV tab on the left hand side of the home page. There is a nice tutorial that explains ERV/HRV operations and why they are needed. They are not cheap - i just bought the Broan whole house unit for around 900 US dollars. It has made a huge difference in the quality of the air inside my house. The heater runs more now (to make up the 15% energy loss with the ERV) but the quality of the house air is much better. It was worth the expense for me. I am huge fan of the Holmes on Homes show and Mike Holmes is from Canada. You can go to his web site and see many episodes that deal with all aspects of HVAC. The one thing that I noticed from these shows is that the Canadian building code is much more stringent on building energy efficient houses than here in the US. The plastic wraps that are required in Canada on the inside walls of the house as a vapor barrier and air infiltration blocker is great BUT if you don't ventilate the house properly, this wrap can be problematic. That excessive mositure in your home can condense on the inside surface of the plastic (where cold air meets warm air) and can foster mold growth on the back side of the drywall. Mold loves to grow on damp paper products. Good luck....See MoreDo svgs int rates, stock market change house financing?
Comments (3)There's usually major volatility around the market as it works through the bottom, so it would often be well to be making ongoing commitments periodically as one felt that the bottom was being developed. Not getting bent out of shape as the values went down again, figuring that, after while, there'd be recovery in quality companies, and the more commitments that one had made on a regular basis through a prolonged bottom, the larger would be the amount eligible for increased value as the market moved ahead again. But I'm not expecting a major move ahead soon, as I think that our difficulties are much deeper than in earlier recessions. If I'd suggested to you, five years ago, that there might be a possibility, in a few years, of GM being at risk of going bankrupt ... you'd have laughed me out of town! And it seems to me that a number of our problems aren't just cyclical ... they're structural: many of these disappearing jobs aren't going to reappear later ... at least, not in our portion of the global economy. Although several here disagree with me, my feeling is that I'd like to get the debt on the house paid off - to be out of debt. But I'd want to have a substantial cushion available in case of emergency, especially in these times of major economic uncertainty, with so many layoffs taking place. Having lived in 22 locations during my 80 years, I've never owned a home, so never had a mortgage. That said - I frequently lack that emergency fund, myself, of 3 - 6 - 9 months' or a year's income in case of major immediate emergency. But I have a credit card, which I almost always pay off in full prior to due date, and a Line of Credit at the bank, fully secured by stocks and mutual funds, which I can draw on to pay off that emergency loan that I'd put on the card. The Line of Credit bore no initiation fee, and there's none for inactivity, either. Would your lender be willing to offer you a Line of Credit, using stock or mutual funds' certificates (could be part of your emergency fund, if you know for sure that your lender will give you an LoC) along with using the equity in your house, while you still had a substantial amount owing on your mortgage? I don't like to borrow for consumption purposes, but I may borrow to invest in quality assets (whatever they may be!), as I have something of ongoing value to show to offset the loan that I owe. If I do borrow for consumption, I want that on a different LoC, as interest on investment loans is deductible ... that for consumption purposes usually is not. Good wishes for making a decision which will please you on an ongoing basis as you choose which path to follow. ole joyful...See MoreLow humidity in home and the effects on engineered floors.
Comments (13)The bottom line with engineered in a home with RH fluctuations (too low in winter and possibly too high in summer): SHORTER life span = Guaranteed - Read below: Cupping is likely in summer (ahem...you have a DEHUMIDIFIER in your crawlspace = humidity imbalance is already known) 3. Gapping is GOING to happen in winter (you already know this because your own investigations into your home's environment are already pointing in that direction. "Checking" or splitting/cracking of the veneer surface is HIGHLY probable once humidity drops below 30%....and it can do it year #1 if you have a bad winter! There is NO going back once it does this = need a new floor. 5. Wood does not always "go back" to size once it has been "stretched" too much. Example: a wood floor exposed to HIGH humidity in the air = crowning....if the humidity is left to stay HIGH for months the wood may NEVER go back to original size. This is the major risk. It can happen with engineered and solid. As you can see, an engineered hardwood has many concerns with humidity levels and lack of control. Remember: the weakest link in any chain is the place where metal has been "bonded" together. The "weld" spot can be the weakest spot. That is the same concept with wood. The weakest spots are the GLUED areas. The GLUE can "let go" when exposed to too much movement. Wood is hydroscopic (it grows or shrinks with moisture levels). The HIGH END adhesives can be VERY elastic....but they will eventually "age" and then become brittle and then eventually "snap" - like an old crunchy elastic band. The more the glue is MADE to move, the more likely it will FAIL = delamination; checking/splitting, etc. A solid hardwood is missing all that GLUE. It will have it's issues....but the issues are more likely to stay "healthy" and functional over time. If you do NOT have a "veneer" you do NOT get delamination. If you do NOT have glue, you cannot have glue failures. If you wish to work with engineered hardwood, you might want to look at floating flooring. When the edges are glued together, the floor will move as ONE PIECE. It will expand as one, and shrink as one. There are VERY FEW solid hardwoods that are allowed to be "floated". And only 70% of all engineered are allowed to be floated. At this point, you will need to "pick your poison". You know your home's weaknesses. You know your own tolerances (and you accept the imperfections of "life" which is a HUGE advantage ;-). You will have to find the product that is the MOST APPROPRIATE for your use. You want a floor that will "last" and that will never be refinished (while you are in the home....the next people can deal with the floors later). I worry that an engineered hardwood in a wider plank (4" or greater) will have issues in your environment. The checking and splitting of the top wear surface (the veneer) is a BIG possibility in your situation (with humidity that *could drop to 20% during a cold winter). And that NEGATES the requirement of a LONG LASTING floor. Once that veneer splits, you need a new floor OR you need wall to wall area rugs to stop the 3" splinters from stabbing you in the leg. A narrow plank (3") solid factory finished hardwood that is quarter sawn. Cleat into place so that you avoid the glue concerns. This might be your "best bet". I would install the floor in either spring or fall. We call these the "shoulder" seasons. These are the seasons where the humidity is considered in the "average" range for the home. Not too high, not too low. That gives the wood the best chance of being "happy" for the longest periods of time....See More- 8 years ago
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