When you're both getting ready, are you both using the sink? For me, I would prefer the single sink with storage over a narrow double pedestal with less storage. While I do have a double sink and I like having it, I would like it a whole lot less if I did not have enough counter space or storage. We rarely are both using the sinks at the same time. I just enjoy being able to have a more pristine sink that's "mine" even though we are usually not both using sinks at the same time.

I have seen numerous ready-made 48" vanities with two sinks. That's a pretty smart idea- putting two 24" vanities together. That might give you more of a selection of styles, but the plumbing might be kind of difficult. The tops would have a seam as well if they were ready-made. You can also build your own from ready-made pieces. If you have 24" depth, you can buy a cabinet base and top it with tile or marble or whatever you like and install two sinks. If you only have 20" depth your options are more limited. What style are you looking for? Perhaps someone will run across one you might like and post it here. If you can go 50 inches, or 52 inches, you can use a 48 inch base cabinet and have a bit of overhang on the top for more counter space. Renee Here is a link that might be useful: Overstock vanity

I have purchased all my items for my master bath remodel which will begin shortly (after hall bath completed). I have a 60" vanity with double sinks, 2 medicine cabinets and 2 overhead light fixtures. We opted for med cabs for storage, but I do like how a large framed mirror looks. Take a look at the finished bathroom thread. I love hobokenkitchen's 72" cane vanity with large mirror. I dont recall if she had 1 or 2 overhead fixtures.

We would like to convert our old, single sink into a double. I understand I can use the same drain if it isn't over 30" but what needs to be done about the supply lines? Do we need to have a plumber change the pipes or can we do it another way outselves? Thanks so very much, If you are under the UPC (Uniform Plumbing Code) you may not combine two fixtures on the same waste arm. If you are under the IRC (International Residential Code) one center trap may serve up to 3 sinks, lavatories or laundry tubs of the same type, in the same room providing the maximum horizontal separation between any two fixtures measured from the center of the drain openings does not exceed 30" however the trap and fixture arm diameter MUST BE appropriately sized for the combined DFU (drainage fixture unit) load. A lavatory sink is rated at 1DFU therefore your proposed combined DFU load would be 2DFUs. The code standard drain opening size for a bathroom lavatory drain is 1-1/4" and the trap and fixture arm are supposed to be sized the same as the fixture tailpiece, which would also be 1-1/4" and rated for a maximum of 1DFU however, the bathroom lavatory is the only fixture in a residential structure that uses a 1-1/4" trap and fixture arm. The code will allow us to increase the size of the trap and/or fixture arm by one nominal trade size, which would then be 1-1/2". Rather than maintain a complete separate inventory of pipe and fittings for this limited use most plumbers now opt for the code exception and make the fixture arm 1-1/2". The code allows an 1-1/2" diameter horizontal waste line with a ¼" per foot pitch to convey a maximum of 3DFUÂs therefore if your existing fixture arm is 1-1/2" you will be able to connect both sinks to the common fixture arm. If the inside diameter of the existing pipe is 1-1/4" you may not combine both sinks on a common fixture arm. To make the physical connection you would need to use a 1-1/2"- "End Waste kit" or "Center waste kit" in the same manner as connecting a double kitchen sink. The lavatory drain tailpiece is 1-1/4" so you would need to use a 1-1/2"x 1-1/4" reducing ferrule on the inputs to the waste kit. The discharge from the end waste or center waste kit would then go into a 1-1/2" P-trap attached to the fixture arm. For the water supply lines we are in a gray area of the code. The code requires all fixtures except a tub or shower to have a valve at the fixture. One exception to this rule is when we are running a manifold system such as commonly used with PEX. On a manifold system we have individual lines from the manifold to the fixture so we may use the manifold shutoff valve as the fixture shutoff providing the manifold valves are all indelibly labeled to indicate which fixture they control. They make side outlet angle stop valves, which have the normal 3/8" outlet port on the top of the valve and a second 3/8" outlet port on the side. These types of valves are commonly used at the kitchen sink to connect dishwashers or ice maker lines. It would then be a judgment call by your inspector whether you could use a side outlet angle stop and run a line to each sink or whether you would need to install a tee on the water line and separate valves.