method for leaf propagation between paper in ziploc bags.
mark4321_gw
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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mark4321_gw
6 years agomark4321_gw
6 years agoRelated Discussions
How to: Propagation of Ficus Lyrata by Leaf cutting.
Comments (38)That's not the only way to propagate actually. My parents own a microbiology laboratory. Plant tissue culture is a way to grow just about any kind of plant from just a singular plant cell, though the most commonly used type of cells in this process are meristematic tissue such as the root tip and axillary bud tips. All plants have this kind of tissue. To have such a narrow-minded field of thought is a detriment only to yourselves. Tissue culture is actually better anyway, so you don't have to destroy an entire bud and root tissue is always plentiful. It also has a higher success rate than when you just try to propagate at home. The tissue culture process can easily be replicated at home as long as a sterile environment is provided. All you really need is a medium to suspend the tissue culture in such as agar, in a temperature controlled environment. Though the suspension medium differs greatly from what kind of plant is being produced. Orchids, for example, require higher levels of malto-detrixin and banana powder to successfully grow. Since there's not much tissue culture done of Ficus lyrata, it would be necessary to find the right suspension medium that yields the highest rates of cell division....See Morepaper leaf bags?
Comments (13)In the last three years I've hauled home hundreds of brown paper yard waste bags filled with compostables from the neighbourhood. At first I set the empty bags aside and tore them up into small (maybe 8" x 8" or less) pieces and added them to the compost bins, in high-carbon layers of browns between high-nitrogen layers of greens. Tearing up the bags wasn't one of my favourite tasks, so they tended to pile up. A year ago last fall, I'd built up 3-4 feet of lasagna compost layers on one area of my garden. I'd read the FAQ about Interbay Mulch here and was curious to try this method of rapid composting but I didn't have any burlap handy. So, I tried using the paper bags instead of burlap. In the late fall of '06 I laid one layer of torn-open paper yard waste bags overtop the lasagna layers. I anchored down the bags with small rocks and wood pieces, to keep them from blowing away. The winter snow and rain fell on the covered mound of the lasagna heap, and at times over the winter I looked at it out the window and wondered what was going on beneath. In the early spring of last year, my curiosity had been growing all winter and I couldn't hold myself back. So, sometime around mid-March I removed the paper cover and checked out the bed. First surprise: when I peeled back one 3' x 3' chunk of paper, there were 20-30 red garden centipedes clinging to the underside. Now, I live in southern Ontario in Canada, and any healthy well-mulched garden here has a 1-1.5" centipede or two scurrying over the surface in the warm days. But to see these creatures in such profusion in the middle of March was new to me. And given centipedes are predators, it immediately said to me "the microherd is active here." Once the paper was removed and I turned my attention to the lasagna heap below, I was again astonished. It looked like and smelled like well-aged compost, the same kind of black crumbled and fragmented materials I'd expect to see in a standard compost bin after a second turning, maybe six months after the start of a compost pile. And a casual dig with a garden trowel confirmed this was the case, right down to the soil level. I left this lasagna bed open to the air until the end of April and didn't cover it up again. When I raked it out a week or so prior to planting at the start of May, everything in the bed had broken down except for twigs and branches, which I removed. What was left was 6-8" of fine crumbled black compost. I pocket-planted tomatoes and peppers into it at the start of May and then covered the surface with a about 1/4" of UCG and a healthy sprinkling of alfalfa pellets topped off by a 1/2" layer of fresh wood chips. The results were astonishing. I've never seen tomatoes or peppers produce so early, so profusely, and so late. They grew so bushy I had to chop them back in late summer -- and the tomato plants at the corners of the sunside ends of the bed grew so heavy with fruit, they pulled over their 4' stakes. Stakes driven 1' into the ground in dense clay. These are my conclusions, based on this trial: * The microherd likes damp warm darkness 24/7. * Paper yard waste bags used as compost & soil covers are permable to rain & snow, and also reduce evaporation to preserve a damp environment underneath their cover. Which is less vulnerable to winter air temperature fluctuations and predation by birds and other surface-dwelling creatures. * If you want rapid lasagna composting even in cold winter temperatures, put a single layer of these yard waste bags over your lasagna heaps. It will speed up lasagna composting. All the best, -Patrick...See MoreCompact Jade Leaf Propagation?
Comments (74)Great info from everyone! But hoping I can pick your genius propagating brains! I love succulents, but am fairly new to the world of propagating. I used to live in San Diego so I pretty much ignored them and they thrived, now I live in the desert and my babies just don't seem as happy! About 2 months ago I began trying to propagate from both single leaves, as well as smaller cuttings (is that the correct name for the tiny plants that had grown from the main stems?). My succulents include a few varieties from the Echeveria family, Aeonium family, as well as a few others with leaves that aren't quite as swollen (water filled) that I'm not sure of the name. I've have been going about it based on slightly different method with mixed results (advice I read before stumbling across this incredible forum!) -- I took the cuttings with a sharp, clean knife (without cutting into the large, main stems - leaving anywhere from 3-4 cm to 3 inches of stem) and twisted off the extra leaves (where I got the majority of my individual leaves, others were from fallen soldiers!). I let the root end of both the single leaves and cuttings callous over(about 3-4 days in a paper bag). And then I planted them all (burying the end of the leaf or calloused over stem). I planted some in a bark, pebble mixture (no soil) and some in a cacti soil. Most all of the leaves / cuttings in the bark and pebble mixture have grown little roots (with the exception of those in the Aeonium family). Although those in the potting soil have indeed shown a tiny bit of growth, they seem to be staying too wet. My questions (finally!!): 1. From the various pictures, it looks like everyone is using a small gravel mixture. What is it exactly? 2. Do you really just lay the leaves on top of the planting medium?? I really want to bury them! Am I inhibiting growth by burying them? 3. Should I re-pot to the mixture you guys are using or would this upset them at this point (it's been a few months)? I'm totally in the dark about how long this process takes, not sure if my 2-6cm of root growth is normal or below normal because stuff is staying too wet. 4. Do you ever re-pot to a different mixture or simply keep them in the gravel medium? 5. Somebody mentioned that a typical growth period from a single leaf is about 1 year. Is that normal, fast, slow? Under what conditions? I'm in the dessert (it will get very hot in the summer, 110+), but I definitely plan bring my plants inside to a South facing window once temps are consistently above 90. I was hoping to use them for my wedding in late September, so I'm praying even if they aren't big that there will be decent growth by then. Am I crazy to think I'll have anything at the rate I'm going now? Any help would be greatly appreciated!! I can post pictures tomorrow if that is helpful. Many thanks, Kristol...See MorePropagation methods for Hoyas
Comments (27)1 DS-70 2 obscura? 3 kerrii 4 not a Hoya 5 variegated kerrii 6 not a Hoya (Cryptocereus) 7 ? maybe an archiboldiana? Too hard for me to tell. Regarding the Hoyas I would cut the DS-70 into 2-3 sections and then pot them up as described above, with multiple nodes touching the soil. I'd definitely loop at least one of them around the edge of the pot, since DS-70 has nice pliant vines and this is easy to do. The obscura? I would probably do as 2 starts. You could do it as one, too, but if you do two then you have a backup if something goes wrong. I would probably just stick the bottom of each section into the soil, so that the bottom-most node is dug into the soil but the leaf/leaves coming out of it can remain mostly above ground. The kerriis look fine at the size that they are. Just stick the bottom nodes into the soil. The solo leaf in picture 3 you might as well toss, as it is very unlikely to turn into a full plant. But you can stick it in the soil next to one of the other starts if you want and it will root and stay alive for a long time. The Cryptocereus is easy to root. Just stick the end in soil appropriate for a cactus, which is what it is. It's almost impossible to kill, so no worries. Number 7, just stick into the soil so the bottom node is submerged and the second node is touching the soil. Since it's fall, you might want to give them some extra humidity and even put them on a heat mat if you have one. You can put them in an aquarium, or clear tupperware container, or a large freezer bag with air blown into it. Keep them in bright indirect light while they are rooting. It's especially important not to expose baggie'd plants to direct sunlight because they'll cook in the bag....See Morehc mcdole
6 years agomark4321_gw
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agomark4321_gw
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6 years agoTiffu (Oregon 8b)
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6 years agoTiffu (Oregon 8b)
6 years agoTiffu (Oregon 8b)
6 years agoRosie1949
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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