How to: Propagation of Ficus Lyrata by Leaf cutting.
mossinajar
9 years ago
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asleep_in_the_garden
9 years agomossinajar
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Pruning Ficus Lyrata (fiddle leaf fig)
Comments (646)Hello everyone! I think from everything I've read in this thread that my plant has been suffering from overwatering and/or soggy soil. I got it in late January and after my second watering it developed a few very small brown marks on the edges of the leaves. Suspecting over watering as the cause, I let it dry out (until it no longer felt damp and spongey through the drainage hole) before watering again. This process meant it was about 2.5-3 weeks between watering and sadly the brown and blackish spots on the leaves have continued to get worse after every watering. With what I've read I now believe the soil is just staying soggy too long. (FYI when I water I give it about 3 cups, allowing one cup at a time to soak in. At least half a cup flows out the drainage holes on the third cup of water.) My plan now is to repot with a soil amendment and a wick. I'd like to do some root pruning as well since I can barely get the moisture meter in the soil through the roots, but I think I read in a previous post from Al that I should wait until it starts growing again and the weather is warmer. In the mean time, will mixing my regular potting soil with perlite as well as adding a wick offer a noticeable improvement for drainage for now? Then in the summer I can source better soil mix components and address any potential root issues? Alternatively, I can just water with more frequency and use less water until summer? Here are some photos of the FLF in the late afternoon on a cloudy day. This plant lives about 3 feet away from a S/SW window and doesn't receive any direct sunlight. Here is evidence that the plant has dropped a few leaves. The six leaves that fell off were the worst looking, and the leaves with the spots (shown above) are headed in that direction. And here is the beautiful new growth since I got it in late January (though now it has stopped and the tiny bud here doesn't seem to have changed in about a month): I look forward to learning even more, so thanks in advance for your advice and expertise :)...See MoreAdvice for my Fiddle Leaf Fig (Ficus Lyrata)
Comments (5)Hello, l need some help please. I recieved my fig a bit over 14 years ago. God love its heart it has been through 3 moves and one repotting. It has 11 trunks and is approximately 6 and a half feet tall. All the trunks are skinny and I have most of them bound to a stake, and it is still leaning. I would like to straighten it up. I had this weird idea of pulling all the trunks together and using gardening tape and starting at the bottom taping them all together to create one trunk. Please dont be horrfied, I dont have many plants and reallyhave no training. This one is special to me and would really appreciate some help to make it a healthy and attractive house plant. I live in north Alabama and it currently sitting on the back porch. Thank you in advance....See MoreFiddle Leaf Fig/Ficus Lyrata newbie
Comments (16)Hi, Sarah. The cultural issues most likely to cause wilting are over-watering, under-watering, high temps, and a high level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil solution. The later is usually accompanied by necrosis of leaf margins on lyrata, unless the high level of salts was due to a very recent fertilizing. If it wilted while the soil was still damp, your issue would probably be related to the effects of over-watering and/or the heat. Water and nutrient uptake is an energy driven process. It takes oxygen to burn (convert) the food (carbohydrates - from photosynthesis) into the energy that drives root metabolism. Too much water in the rhizosphere (root zone) means too little air means not enough O2 means the work of water uptake is compromised. The heat increases the rate of respiration increases water demand and exacerbates the issue. I would: Shade the pot to help keep roots cool if the plant has direct sun hitting it Use a wood dowel or bamboo skewer to test the soil, waiting to water until the soil is nearly but not quite dry. When soil is at first dry to the touch, there is still 10-15% additional water left that the plant can access - so a built-in margin for error. Flush the soil thoroughly the next time the plant needs watering by pouring a volume of water equal to the pot capacity up to 10 times, using room temp water; this, to rid the soil of accumulating salts. Then, fertilize the plant with a soluble fertilizer with a 3:1:2 NPK ratio. RATIO is different than NPK %s - ask if you'd like me to explain the difference. After flushing the soil, water on an as needed basis. Don't let the soil remain saturated for extended periods. I can also help you learn how to deal with soils that hold too much water, if you think that's an issue. I'll wait on your comments before I offer anything else. Al...See MoreFicus lyrata / fiddle leaf fig leaf peoblem
Comments (4)Hi Dave. I took the plant from a 4" plastic nursery pot & put entire root ball with all existing dirt into a 5" clay pot. Did not remove any of original dirt. In the half inch around outer part of pot I added 'Fafard complete potting mix' for flowering, foliage, tropical plants. Breakdown: total nitrogen 0.09% (from ammoniacal, nitrate, water soluble, & urea nitrogen), available phosphate 0.04%, & soluble potash 0.06%. In the soil I added a small pinch of vermiculite mixed thoroughly. Less than 1/4 teaspoon. To help with drainage. I watered after putting in new pot with the small amount of additional new soil. Before that it had been about a week prior since watering. The FLF has been housed in a southeastern corner room with a ceiling fan on low. It would completely dry out the soil in about 5-7 days in that small plastic pot. The fan has been helpful for other plants in that room. After the pot change Friday, I did move it to an upstairs southern facing window where it remained for the weekend until today. It would have had a bit more direct sun for sure through that window. :/ I hope these details are helpful. I appreciate your time and any insight. I am devestated. As an avid indoor gardener, I'm heartbroken to see this and think that I've caused it....See Moreasleep_in_the_garden
9 years agomossinajar
9 years agosummersunlight
9 years agodaniellemarielaberge
8 years agodaniellemarielaberge
8 years agoDave
8 years agoMentha (East TN, Zone 6B-7A)
8 years agorooftopbklyn (zone 7a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agocaityross
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoMentha (East TN, Zone 6B-7A)
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agorooftopbklyn (zone 7a)
8 years agoMentha (East TN, Zone 6B-7A)
8 years agomossinajar
8 years agoMentha (East TN, Zone 6B-7A)
8 years agoVinny Chirayil
7 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agokaterina ivars
6 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoDani Nielse
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agomax_baumung
5 years agomax_baumung
5 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoDani Nielse
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoDani Nielse
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoDave
5 years agoAndrew Hsu
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoDave
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoAndrew Hsu
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoAndrew Hsu
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoAndrew Hsu
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoSolomon Dang-Goldberg
4 years ago
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