Hi bedtime - I'm pretty much of a newbie around here myself, but welcome to you. Your plants look really great. I see several of them are still in grow pots...have you thought about double potting? That's where you get a pretty container, doesn't have to have a drainage hole - works better without, actually - make sure it's big enough to hold your plant in its grow pot, put a plastic liner inside, then set plant and grow pot right down into the decorative container. This is the way interior landscapers set up their plants. Got a short video on this if you want to look at it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kG9PImILzh8. If you want to talk about anything, you can ask me here, or leave comments on the site. If you're looking to do some repotting, you'll find some great advice/experiences here on GW. Thought I'd toss in a couple of thoughts on your spath. I know, if you've done any reading, you've found there's lots of conflicting advice out there on practically everything to do with houseplants, and nothing worse than what you'll find on spaths, or peace lilies. Some people will swear that you have to let them dry out to wilt between waterings, others are adamant that they must be kept evenly (whatever that means) moist. You might wonder how this can be. I believe that it arises because spaths are among the most adaptable of plants; they adapt to a wide range of light, soil, and moisture, and still manage to look beautiful. Here's my experience. I've been an interior landscaper for 30 years, and I've had the opportunity to take care of probably thousands of spaths in all possible light conditions. I have found that while you don't want to allow them to actually dry between waterings, you don't want to keep them always moist, either. The soil moisture should reach the point where, if you spoon up some soil from well down into the pot and squeeze it between your fingers, it should feel cool and soft, stick together when you stop squeezing it, but fall apart easily if you touch the clump. I would call that "slightly damp." You can also test the soil by inserting a wooden dowel all the way to the bottom of the pot. There will be a little dirt sticking to the probe, and you will feel a trace of moisture if you run it between your fingers. When the soil reaches this level of aeration, it's time to water. At this point, you should water until you get a run off in your liner of 1/4 inch. I mention all this because if I saw a spath with the tip and margin yellowing/browning that yours has, I would advise the tech that the plant might be staying a bit too wet. You want the surface of the soil to dry out, and you don't want to inhibit the airflow in and out of the soil. If you're seeing green and white roots on the surface under the towels, that suggests to me that the bottom areas of the pot are too wet, so the plant is trying to find soil to colonize at the top of the pot. Also, humidity is really not the factor that many people think it is. I say this because, again, as an interior landscaper I have had the opportunity to deal with thousands of plants in interior, closed, very dry situations. Spaths do just beautifully without anyone ever worrying about humidity. One thing you might want to do is cut off the bottom, raggedy leaves. This will encourage the growth of new leaves, which will incidentally produce more flowers. (A thing I've noticed is that a spath leaf supports only one flower in its life time; if you want more flowers, you need more leaves.)

Atthetop, winter isn't a good time to try rooting in soil. You might check the cutting daily, if leaves turn yellow and the stem turns 'rubbery' from loss of moisture, simply put it in water in a bright place until spring. If there are leaves on the bottom half of the cutting, take them off and put the stem in water up to about half of it's length. It should produce roots and will be fine until warmer weather. Do you know which aglaonema you have? If you're interested in knowing, post a pic here and we can try to identify it. Good luck, Russ

Hope everyone is having a great weekend! Barb! look at all of those flowers! Those violets are pretty but they are a real pest here! spread like wiregrass! You really make me miss tulips too! (I knew winter was good for something!) Is that a trillium at the top! I can't remember the last time I saw a trillium!I am sorry to hear that Al has pain, I have suffered from hip/joint pain for several years, the doctors have told me the best treatment is 'keep moving' grrrr, sometimes it is very tough to do. Regina I am happy that you are getting some rain! (I hate to complain about water from the sky but it is still raining off and on here! The plants are loving it, but it sure makes it unpleasant outside (muggy, mosquitos and soggy) That Brug is beautiful! I can't wait till mine bloom, I have 3 potted and one in the ground, I just love those leaves! Even if they didn't have flowers My elephant ears hit the ground running too, all this water really perked them up. I cannot believe the size of the leaf on one of them (Is it my imagination or are those leafs still growing?!?!) Here is a photo of some of the plants Michelle sent (see the little rose that bloomed in the box!!! 9 different coleus cuttings!!! can't wait to pot those up! they are gorgeous! Michelle I am sorry to hear about your little GH! Glad that is was not worse and that you and your family are fine! Last of the Iris Peony my herb garden Hummingbird magnet! Tropical Sub-Tropical Surplus Swap Status 1.bigmama4ever sends to chellflower 2. ladygreensleeves sends to rosepedal SURPLUS SENT and RECIEVED! 3. fcoffill sends to Tina_2 SURPLUS SENT and RECIEVED 4. rosepedal sends to deig01991 SURPLUS SENT AND RECIEVED 5. deig01991 sends to divahethr SURPLUS SENT and RECIEVED 6. chellflower sends to ladygreensleeves SURPLUS SENT and RECIEVED 7.divahether sends to greenthumbgrow SURPLUS SENT and RECIEVED 8. greenthumbgrow sends ro Micyrey SURPLUS SENT 9. tina_2 and micyrey send SMALL (yes SMALL please) boxes to fcoffill miceyrey - SURPLUS SENT and RECIEVED Have a great day everyone! Frances

That is all correct. The upward-curved vine tip will occur when the vine is growing along the ground, because when it encounters a vertical surface it is positioned to take advantage of it. The same curve will happen when it grows past the top of the vertical surface and is hanging in space because it is still seeking a vertical orientation. If it were to grow straight on the ground and in the air, it would pass the tree or vertical surface instead of attaching to it and climbing it. A straight orientation hanging in the air would put it on a trip back to the ground. This plant is programmed to climb. If it grows on the ground, its leaves are small, and its tip is curved upwards. It grows small leaves to support its growth and focus all of its energy towards elongation. Internodes are long, and it is REACHING to find something to climb. When it encounters a suitable surface and attaches, it has achieved mission number 1. Leaves get larger, and the vine thickens with each new leaf. Internodes get shorter, the tip straightens because it is vertically oriented and attached. If the tip curved now, it would launch itself out into space and defeat mission number two, which is reaching the canopy, where it can get the premium quality light. Right now it is putting all of its energy into growing large leaves, large vines, and large aerial roots to grip its host. It is happy in this position, growing the largest, most robust leaves and vines that are simply not achievable without being attached. It is still reaching (upward), but not with the same desperation. Its needs are being met while it pursues mission number 2. If you were to pry the tip away from its host, each new leaf will grow smaller, the vine will grow thinner, the internodes will lengthen, and the tip will curve toward a vertical orientation. Now it is again in reaching mode, elongating desperately in search of a new host. Now I am not a botanist, and i havent read any books on the subject. I learned this by observing its behavior when i encounter it. Maybe someone that has some botanical training can confirm or correct my hypothesis.