Is it a sin to remove mahogany moulding from a 1920's tudor revival?
Julia Eisenstein
6 years ago
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palimpsest
6 years agoJudy Mishkin
6 years agoRelated Discussions
What style is this old house?
Comments (11)Cute house. I'm very familiar with that style. I wouldn't strip the wood--some houses built in that era, like mine, have always been painted right from the start. Your doors are very classic early Art Deco, common in that style of house. You may or may not have early Art Deco hardware scattered about, meaning door handles and such. Those doors do look great stripped, even with--maybe especially with-- white molding, but either way they're great. Your kitchen would not originally have been separate pieces, but painted built-in cabinets. There are several styles you could use with that house. I guess you could get away with sorta craftsman, but don't go overboard--Craftsman was over by that point. Colonial revival is fine. You could also use a few Tudor-y elements like barleytwist legs. Check out some of the interior shots on Antique Home Style. Here is a link that might be useful: Antique Home Style--Look for '20s interiors...See MoreStickley's other identity (crisis)
Comments (52)fori, I was actually surprised how dead-on the form of your piece actually was to those early 19th c. examples. I was expecting a little more artistic license but while they appeared to take details Off, they didn't really try to stick anything else On, and that's good :) jterrilyn, I am also a fan of this type of furniture, whether moderne or colonial-revival. The better examples still pretty much follow the proportions of the originals, and are actually much better scaled than a lot of today's furniture. And even the kind of ugly stuff is still solid as a rock. I have a very small dresser, maybe 15" by 30" by 36" that my mother bought "in the dime store" when she went to college in 1952 it's survived trips from Virginia to Philadelphia to Pittsburgh and back again as well as a flood in my parents old house, and various other traumas, and it is still solid. It probably cost her $5.00 new, it was that era's example of disposable furniture, and 60 years later it's still hanging around....See Moremolding stain disaster...
Comments (7)I am not a botanist, or even an expert in any kind of wood "ology", but I have bumped into similar situations. It sounds like you may have encountered issues from two fronts: Different manner of harvesting (cutting) the wood, and possibly even different wood species. How a stain reacts to each of these conditions can be quite unique, even with a pre-conditioner. I have found pre-conditioners to help make stain appearance more consistent across a specific "type" of board, but not as helpful across different types or species. When cutting wood from a log, different methods are used depending on the type of product they are trying to make. For wainscot (or plywoods in general), it is desireable to have a wide, flat, thin piece of wood. This can be made by either by joining several flat sawn pieces together at the edge, or by actually peeling the log like an apple skin. The grain created by these two methods are quite different and will take stain quite differently. Peeling can produce large areas of the same layer in the log's growth rings. My guess is that the "goldy" sheen you are referring to is in the harder, summer layer which does not take a stain very well; while the surrounding wood soaks it up like a sponge (very dark). On the other hand, the moulding pieces and flat stock were likely harvested in the simple flat-sawn manner. The mouldings probably have the grain going perpendicular to the face (works better when routing or cutting contours), while the flat stock has it running mosty flat. Again, these cuts can setup conditions that make the absorbing of stain very different. Another thing you could be dealing with, is that PINE is not just PINE. There are several species, each with their own characteristics. Sometimes with mouldings they only classify between hardwood and softwood which leaves a lot open to interpretation. So that might help with how you got here, but doesn't do beans to help with your current problem:-( You can try sanding the flat stock as others have suggested; that's probably not an option with the mouldings though. You can try a solution of laundry bleach or wood bleach (oxacylic acid) to see if that pulls enough color out. Keep in mind that both of these methods will likely raise the grain so let it dry completely and sand smooth before trying to adjust the color or put on any finish. If you decide to start over, here are some ideas to avoid the same pitfalls. - Gel stains. These are much easier to control and do not "soak right in" the way typical oil stains do. You sometimes have to "rub" these in a bit to get the desired look. You can also let a thin layer actually just "dry" right on surface of the wood, if you can't get it to soak or rub into the wood. - One-coat "varnish stains" (Minwax calls these Polyshades) can give better color control, but has a tendency to hide the grain detail. Use additional coats of the "varnish stain" to get a darker effect. Once you have the color you like, you can add additional topcoats (if needed) of clear varnish without affecting the color. Be careful sanding between coats of varnish stain, as the color is mostly in the varnish coat and not soaked into the wood. I have used this method many times on windows where the casings were made of PINE, but the trim is Oak. I've also used it on woods that don't take stains well like Maple. - You have probably already realized this, but experiment on the actual woods that you are using. You may very well find that you need to apply a different treatment to each "type" of wood to get the same (or at least acceptable) color. This actually happens to me often when I'm building cabinetry and mixing the use of both solid woods and veneer plywoods. Not as bad with Oak, but with woods like Pine and Maple, I like to steer toward either no stain at all, or toward red/mahogany. The brown/black seems harder to control. I even do this when purposely substituting different wood types for durability reasons. I hope that helps. I've felt the same frustration as you. Good luck with your project. Jim...See MoreBoosting a 1920s Brick Home's Curb Appeal
Comments (14)the brick isn't the issue, the landscape is. Your hedge HAS to GO!! seriously. it blocks the front of the house and does nothing to enhance the yard. spend the money and hire a landscape designer. 90% of your curb appeal will come from that. consider adding some bricks to the cement steps, and flower beds along the side. you can round off the slope of the grass, remove your hedge, do some nice flower beds, a tree, etc. Think English style cottage gardens. roses, small shrubs, pots, (you need a landscaper person for this) the other 10 percent, the roof (I'd do a black or charcoal), replace those windows if you can (the glaring white just doesn't go w/this brick tudor) and try your Urbane Bronze on the trim. Normally these homes had wood doors. if you can't do that, then consider painting yours black or the bronze. I don't mind the black windows, and black trim on your mock up. Here's one similar to yours with a very dark trim and windows. (if yours aren't vinyl, paint them) more of a dark blue/charcoal color and a warmer slate-brown color roof. You could do a type of Schmear or heavy mortar treatment over the brick. And if you want a hedge in front, do the hedges like this! This is one of my favorite brick tudors. notice the door, the trim color and most of all, the landscaping. another one w/landscaping ideas. flower beds and your lawn will be the main appeal Similar style. this is a warmer charcoal roof, the windows and the trim are a medium warm gray color, as is the door. This landscape is rather blah Urbane bronze would be similar to this one. notice the wood door. if you want to paint the brick, go w/Romabio Masonry (not the Classico). Here's a brick tudor style done in a creamy white, soft greige trim/windows and aqua door. Notice the slate walkway. you could easily tile your cement walkway w/a flagstone or slate tile. really looks better than bare concrete. This before and after brick tudor-style was done w/a custom color in Romabio Masonry. look into Faux-Slate roof tiles. they work w/your style. comes in many colors http://www.create-enjoy.com/2021/04/home-tour-classic-brick-tudor-revival.html...See Moregeoffrey_b
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