Considering different foundations-
Ed(Edwina) and Stephen Ci
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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long - foundation planting, half sun help please
Comments (18)Hi, Dee Thought I would suggest Arborvitae, Emerald (Smargd). It is a tall, columnar evergreen that I use alot in my designs where I want tall and narrow. They will get to about 10-12 feet tall and three feet wide here. I have them at each corner and each angle of my house, and on either side of my front door. I grow them in full sun to almost total shade here and they do well. If anything, the shade makes them a bit narrower, which is fine with me. You were talking about depth of your beds. I find it easier to design the plantings first and then just make the beds a depth that will accomodate the mature size of the shrubbery. Be sure to leave a good two feet of empty space along the wall of the house for window washing and other maintenance. You mentioned purple foliage. I find it shows best, especially against a dark background when it has something chartreuse planted behind it. If you want to use alot of deciduous plants, you might want to consider doing a low edging around the beds, or part of the beds, with boxwood. This gives a parterre look, which I have really come to enjoy over the years. It can be low maintenance if you choose the right box. Go for low and SLOW growing varieties. I use alot of korean box (which may or may not be good as far north as you are) for this purpose. I only have to shear once a year. Be aware that boxwoods can have hungry roots. I root prune mine every year or two with a spade to keep them in bounds and away from other plantings. I can get one gallon boxwoods here for about $8 each. Of course, we don't grow Green Velvet and some of the other beautiful ones like it here in the south. One other thought. If you will get a pad of graph paper and a tape measure and go to the house, you can measure and draw out the area to scale. Just use one little box for one square foot. Then draw away (in pencil). When you are done, you'll know exactly how many plants you will need for the project. It's a low tech way, but it works. Being able to visualize things in your mind really helps. It sounds like you have that ability. Good luck! I am sure it will turn out beautifully....See MoreAm Considering Silky Pole Saw - What Else Should I Consider?
Comments (7)The Silky pole saw is one of the nicest out there. I have never used or owned the Silky version. I have a fiberglass version that I use but I also have separate pruning and saw head for the poles. I don't think the Silky can take a pruning head IIRC. Since you don't use the pruning portion, that should not be an issue. It will not matter which blade you get IF the blades are interchangeable. I know they offer the blades in different lengths for the handsaws, I'm just not sure about the polesaws. I have a zubat hand saw that I really like. You'll want the blade to be as stiff as possible. It helps prevent the blade from bending when it binds in the cut. Great things about the Silky are that it is one of the lightest and stiffest poles out there. But anything that long is going to flex. The Silky blades are excellent. The extendable version is nice in that it quickly adjusts to the desired height. Bad things are that the aluminum poles are not as sturdy as some folks hoped. Drops and bangs to the units have caused bent poles that could not be satisfactorily straightened (think bent retractable radio antenna). Also, if the clips that lock the extension poles in place break, they are not repairable. They are not rated for utility work (around electricity). The above info is what I remember from doing research @3 years ago. Some of this may have changed in the meantime. There were alot of happy folks using these though. Problems were with durability and not being able to repair a pricey piece of equipment....See MoreNeed advise... considering different method
Comments (7)I too will be using Ziplock and other clear produce bags from the grocerie store to sow in this year. I do not think I will be using pots though- just the bags with some holes punched in them. I too had thought I would use the mini blind supports- although I had thought to use a long one to span up both sides and across the top for head room support. I will place these into "disposable" metal banquet type pans and other large bowl containers. My thoughts for doing this is less storage of containers while not in use. I spend much time cleaning and storing my many wintersow containers- and I think a quick rinse and line dry before storing flat will be a great change of pace. I had used regular sandwich bags in larger WS containers this year, which really worked well! I left the baggies folded over on the top and used the containers cover for protection. I hate to admit it- but I still have a couple of baggies waiting to be planted out.... I do like to use clear square and rectangular cookie type containers like the ones from costco- as I can stack one on top of the other and make a tidy "wall" of containers till I see green in those containers. Then I spread them out so they all get their time in the sun. When you have many of one type of these containers, you can really save on space by stacking. I think I will miss that feature most of all by switching over to the bag method. I have stopped the slugs getting into my containers and have eliminated the tape by using these flat lidded type containers. I use a drill with a small bit to make drain holes in the bottom- and drill a small hole on each of the 4 sides just below the top lip of the container for transpiration. The lid remains intact with no holes. I find with this technique, I do not need to water these containers till the tops come off. I also need to start to watch for slugs at that time too- Maybe you would feel more comfortable about your containers out in the yard if you set up a little "staging" area. You could purchase a set of saw horses and a full size piece of some lattice (either vinyl or cedar)and 2 or 3 2x4s the same length of the lattice. Set up the nags- place the boards at either side, and maybe one in the middle, to support the lattice so it doesn't sag in the middle- and place the lattice on top. You can place your containers under the "table" out of direct viewing- and then use this set up as a potting table in the spring and summer. I hope these ideas may help you- Julie...See MoreFire damaged foundation and protecting foundation over winter
Comments (3)The rebar and other reinforcements in the concrete expand and contract at different rates. That's not a problem with the usual minimal stable temperature ranges, but creates large enough cracks during a fire that it renders the foundation unsound for future bearing use. Not to mention the heat damaged plumbing contained within or under the slab also cannot be re-used. I'm sorry for your loss....See MoreEd(Edwina) and Stephen Ci
6 years agoPinebaron
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agosheepla
6 years agoDavid Cary
6 years agomushcreek
6 years agoCharles Ross Homes
6 years agoEd(Edwina) and Stephen Ci
6 years ago
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