crabapplemcn, I do not have an answer for you (sorry!) but since I went thru this "need answer asap" phase recently, I would suggest that you talk to/visit a local showroom where they have such a faucet on display and measure it. Try calling; typically they would answer those Q's gladly. Sorry again for not being much help; just suggesting an alternative to getting a quick answer.

I think the point is that just because something dies on transplanting or doesn't seem to be doing as well as we'd like it isn't the end of the season by far. It happens all the time in gardening. New gardeners need to learn to accept that fact. And it in no way means a lost year of gardening. The title of this thread conveys a sense of panic, a plea for urgent , immediate help needed right this minute. Life and death is on the line! Such a situation very rarely exists in gardening and most of us know that. So for purposes of effective communication it's best to save such wording for those times in life when it is truly necessary. Say something along the line of "Help!! My 4 year old just pulled up my tomato plants! Please help me save them!" :-) <do you have any insight into the OP's question about drought stress, or lowering the watering or even giving more water, etc. at certain stages? I'd be very curious to know your input on this. I've always known that you water young plants like crazy, but don't over water older plants so the fruit doesn't crack and it turns out sweet and healthy and doesn't confuse the old plant into producing yet more flowers and young tomatoes...> Well I addressed it in part above but as I said since it is a second hand comment taken out of context I wouldn't put much stock in it either way. And since this is a topic often discussed over on the Growing Tomatoes forum - as is the debate on pruning and topping plants and their effects - I'm not going to rehash all the various opinions given. But my personal position is that do not believe in ever intentionally stressing plants for many reasons. Be that with water or unnecessary pruning/topping. In general both defeat the purpose of growing the plants in the first place and both are done almost exclusively due to a grower's lack of information or for the convenience of the grower, not the plant. Obviously there are exceptions to the pruning issue as it all depends on the (1) the type of plant as determinates are never pruned, (2) plant in ground or in container, (3) spacing used for planting and (4) the methods used to support the plant. But when proper plant spacing and support are used, when adequate soil prep is done on in ground beds, and when proper sized containers are used the only pruning needed IMO is of any branches low on the stem that would come into ground contact and/or any branches showing signs of disease. Anything more is stressful to the plant and should be avoided. And, those devoted to aggressive pruning/topping of all plants regardless of the listed considerations are always amazed to learn that the vast majority of growers do NOT prune. Clearly there are those who disagree with me and that's fine. All I ask is that they don't just jump onto any bandwagon without first trying at least a few of the alternative approaches. As to the water issue, IMO ideal growth and production of tomato plants requires consistent levels of moderate soil moisture at the root level. That doesn't mean wet, it means moist. It doesn't mean daily watering as some are determined to read it. It means checking the moisture level at the root level daily and adding water only if needed. It doesn't mean wet soil surface since you shouldn't be able to see your soil surface anyway if the plants are well mulched as they should be. I don't "water young plants like crazy" as that only stunts root development. They get what they need and no more. And I don't worry about cracking fruit since I always harvest at first or second blush/breaker stage. Cracking, pests, heavy rains, etc. isn't an issue that way so there is no need to withhold water from them at any time. Just some thoughts to consider. Dave

Put the paint chips - not actual paint - up to the grey striped tile. That will tell you which one matches the best. Or at a minimum take a photo that shows the above paint strikes with the grey wall all in the same shot. And yes dark grey walls can 100% work in your bathroom if the lighting is sufficient. You have half the room in mirror/vanity or light tile so it can use the dark color successfully if the lighting levels are up to par. That means recessed cans and/or vanity light in addition to the LED mirror light.

You need to make that decision in your room with your light. What we see on our computer monitors may not look anything like what you see in real life. In fact the floor looks like a different color in your two photos, which should prove to you that it's impossible for anyone to pick the color for you long-distance on a website. What you could do is paint the walls the same white color as the trim. Also, are you painting before you install the new floor? Painting should come last.