If it's doing alright in that place, it can stay there. Most amaryllises don't need a cool period to bloom unless you are forcing them. Just let it take its rest and once it starts to put up new growth, you might want to repot it in next bigger pot if it is rootbound. Lessen watering when they are resting, giving them a dry period in between watering. Given proper care, sun, fertilizer and good soil, it will flower again in it's own time. Hope that helps.

I've had hippeastrum bulbs for about 8 years, and in all that time, I've treated them as houseplants. My bulbs do not get forced into a dormancy, and they bloom reliably almost every spring. They put themselves through a rest period in winter, and drop their leaves. My largest bulb has only skipped 2 bloom cycles in all that time, and it was my fault for disturbing it with re-potting. This past fall, I added quite a few bulbs to my collection, and it would probably be to my advantage to put several of them through a forced dormancy due to space restrictions. Hippeastrums will require a 6-8 week rest period, followed by another 6-8 weeks growth period for blooming, so your bulbs should be put to rest about 16 weeks before you want flowers. I found a simple explanation of how to put Hippeastum bulbs to rest at the University of Minnesota Extension website. Very well-written in a very simple way. I copied and pasted it for another post here in the forum, but I'd be happy to post it here, as well... It's fairly short and to the point, considering it contains quite a bit of information for the novice grower... Here is is: "The amaryllis is a tender bulb that will bloom without special treatment when first purchased. It should be potted up in light, rich soil in a pot that is only 12 inches larger in diameter than the bulb. The upper half of the bulb should be exposed above the soil. After watering thoroughly, allow the soil to become quite dry. Water more frequently after the flower stalk appears, but never water when the soil is already moist. Put the plant in a warm, sunny spot until the flower buds show color, then move it out of direct sunlight. After blooming, cut off the flowers to prevent seed formation. The foliage should be handled as if it were a sun loving houseplant. Place it in the brightest possible location indoors until it is warm enough to sink the pot in soil outdoors where it will receive dappled sunlight at first. Gradually move it to a brighter location where eventually it has full sun for at least five or six hours daily. Fertilize with a balanced houseplant food at regular intervals to build up the nutrients needed for blooming the following year. Amaryllis should be brought indoors before the first frost in the fall. Traditionally, the bulb is then given a resting period by placing it in a dark location, withholding all water and allowing the leaves to dry. The bulb may be forced into bloom again after resting eight weeks, or even less, should new growth appear spontaneously. If necessary, repot in a slightly larger container. If the pot is still large enough, remove the upper 2 inches of soil and topdress with fresh potting soil. This completes the cycle, which may be repeated annually for many years of lovely blossoms. Amaryllis also can be kept growing actively year-round without the traditional rest and subsequent forcing. When handled this way, however, the bulbs probably will not bloom until spring. They still require annual repotting or topdressing along with adequate light and fertilizer to ensure repeated bloom. Often small plantlets will develop beside a well-grown amaryllis. These may be separated gently from the large bulb and repotted, or they may be left attached and allowed to grow to full size along with the original bulb. You could end up with a large pot containing several amaryllis, all blooming at once . . . a spectacular sight! With a little care and effort, you can have a steady supply of bulb flowers from late January to April. Forcing bulbs into flowering can be a great pleasure and challenge for anyone who is interested in flowering plants." The above quoted information was taken directly from the University of Minnesota Extension website. I think it's written in fairly simple terms, easy to understand for those who are new Amaryllis Addicts and aren't sure what to do with their new bulb once it has initially flowered for Christmas!

Good question as I need to know that to.I'll be checking the responses.

So I used this forum to identify a seed I got while walking in Dallas as a red yucca. I live in Ohio and a cultivated the seeds this spring and they are doing well. My question is can I keep them inside for the winter for a couple years to get them bigger or should I let them go dormant outside? They are so small I just don't want to loose them. It says the are hearty to zone five and I'm in 6. Do they need a dormant period to servive?