Matching butcher block to other wood tones in kitchen
Melanie Rubery
6 years ago
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butcher block counter install in kitchen (possible? who does it?)
Comments (8)Thanks for all the replies! I am still figuring out how gw works... I will look for a finish carpenter for this part of the job - I am not sure if they will want to measure or just install... we will see. Just got a quote from John Boos - seriously expensive (I knew that going in but I didn't expect it to be more than granite or marble!) I think we may just do a small piece in butcher block... Now I am worried about color matching cherry cabinet with cherry butcherblock. Will this work?...See Morefinished kitchen, cream cabinets with butcher block counters
Comments (21)Thanks everyone for the nice compliments. I got so many good tips from this forum. The biggest tip I got here was to use mostly drawers in the bottom. I was worried at first but my gosh, it is fantastic! I can't believe everyone that does a new kitchen doesn't do this. Everything is so accessible and you actually have more storage. In fact, I have so much storage I still have drawers that don't have anything in them yet. And this isn't a huge kitchen, I think it is 11' x 12' or so. Lynn, I answered you question about the hard wood on the post in the decorating forum where I posted pics of the rest of my house. The floors are by Shaw, 5" plank engineered, satin finish. The color change hasn't been dramatic, just gives them a richer color. Easy to care for so far. Thanks for the thought on sealing after oiling. I was planning to sand them down first but I will definitely check and see if it will work....See MoreFinally - Kitchen DEMO and butcher block countertop question
Comments (2)I have Ikea butcher block counters, and some soapstone around my sink. I really really love the butcherblock. I love having wood counters in my kitchen. They look and feel warmer than granite, which I've had in all my previous kitchens (and Corian, which I dislike because it feels so plasticy to me). They require a little more maintenance, at least at first. I used Ikea's oil finish, and I had to hand rub six coats onto the counters, waiting 12 hours between each coat. Now, the counters are fine, wipe clean easily, and are no more maintenance than was granite. I love how they look. My soapstone looks crummy, needs oiling all the time, and has water spots from the sink. If I could do it over again, I'd put wood around my main sink too, but DH insisted we had to have stone around the main sink. We have Ikea butcherblock around our prep sink and there's no problem with staining, etc. I love John Boos butcherblock, so that would be an option for you, but it would raise the height of your counters by an inch or so if you go with the one that sits on top. That could be an advantage or not, depending on how tall you are. I don't cut on my counters. I have a butcherblock cutting board that sits on top of my island, which is also butcherblock. So even if you get butcherblock, you may end up with the John Boos cutting board on top....See MoreButcher Block kitchen desk top, what finish ?
Comments (22)Hi Macy, I did put a salad bowl finish on my cutting block. I had a thick maple butcher block for 30 years and treated it with only oil or oil/paraffin wax. Then I bought a cherry end grain block to be integrated into an island. I was worried about going with a block that wasn't maple because maple's high density is ideal for block. So... I got the cherry lock from Boos and sanded it down to get rid of the imperfections. Then I oiled it, and oiled it and oiled it and oiled it. Cherry is less dense than maple and it kept absorbing all of the oil I put on it. I also used oil/wax blends but the cherry would absorb it all and lose its water repellency very quickly. After using almost two quarts of mineral oil on the bock I envisioned oil pouring out of the end grain on the bottom of the block! I researched all over the internet and didn't find much information about problems with non-maple blocks. Then I found a woodworker's website that mentioned using salad bowl finish to lock together the grain in a butcher block to reduce its ability to absorb water and oils. I tried it and it worked fabulously! The trick is to keep adding all of the finish the wood will absorb during an application and then wiping off ALL residue from the surface before it dries so there will not be a film left on the surface. Now I don't have to oil the block very often and it is easy to get water to bead up on the block. Cleanup is a breeze. I've done a lot of woodworking and worked with many types of wood finishes including spraying and it is impressive to see how well this works. Believe me, I was concerned about ruining my block but the end result is better than I would have guessed. Billy...See More
Melanie Rubery
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