Not really a good comparison for division (pothos vs peperomia). The answer is "probably yes" but the plant is terribly fragile and you could expect a degree of collateral stem and leaf damage. You could saw right through the rootball with a sharp clean knife - however until you remove it from the pot it will be difficult to know exactly where to do that. You would need to try to disturb the plant and the roots as little as possible and preferably make it a 2-man job with someone holding the plant and then dropping one half into a new pot and you backfilling. However, since it is such a nice plant right now, and set-back is probably likely, why not simply move it into a larger pot if you think it is cramped?

I grow almost exclusively in containers, both indoors and out, and have for many, many years. I use the gritty mix only for cacti and succulents or plants that really like to dry out thoroughly between waterings. I use the 5-1-1 for everything else, which is pretty much what laticauda suggested.

hello from Sharon : I have a similar plant in my house. I purchased mine online from Hirt's Gardens. I have a few peperomias at home . I find that they do better in a terra cotta clay pot. They should not be watered too often. If you have it in a plastic pot with very moist soil, let the soil dry out completely before watering it again. Mine does not have any aerial roots, so I can't advise you on that. It looks like you have a variegated version of peperomia. I have a similar one with marbled green and white leaves. I think that yours would do better in a terra cotta pot. You can get these at Home Depot or Lowes for very cheap. I hope this helps. thanks

There are 14 nutrients essential to normal growth that plants absorb through the root pathway, and the fertilizer you are using has only 3 of those nutrients, which makes it inappropriate for use on containerized plants w/o additional supplements, which complicates nutritional supplementation, so let's look for an approach that's easier and offers the grower the most control over what the plant gets (in terms of nutrition) and when it gets is. First, though, I'll explain why the older leaves are turning yellow. Some of the nutrients are mobile in the plant. That is to say they can be moved from place to place. The mobile nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, and magnesium. The rest of the 14 are either immobile or largely immobile in the plant. When there is a deficiency of any of the nutrients considered to be mobile, the plant will rob them from older leaves or leaves which are not pulling their weight when it comes to producing food for the plant. The plant then uses the 'cannibalized' nutrients to fuel new extension growth by providing the nutritional building blocks the plant needs to make the vines/branches grow longer and and the leaves that appear as they extend. Suggested fix: * Purchase a container of Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. It contains ALL nutrients essential to normal growth, in a favorable ratio, making it a complete form of nutrition in a single container. * The next time your plant needs water, flush the soil thoroughly by slowly pouring a volume of room temp water through the soil. The volume should be equal to at least 10x the volume of the pot it's in. This will flush out any accumulation of salts and reset the EC/TDS (fertility level) to near 0. * Snap off the collection saucer so the plant can drain. Tipping the pot will make a big difference in how much excess water will drain from the soil. Compare image B to A above to see how much more water exits the pot when you tip it after a thorough watering. * When the pot has stopped draining, right the pot and fertilize with a production strength dose of Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 until water is exiting the drain hole(s) again, then tip the pot again. * Flush the soil each time you water (so at least 20% of the total volume of water it takes to wet the soil exits the drain hole) and fertilize about every 4th or 5th time you water. To keep track of how many times you've watered your plant, drop a marble/ button/ bottle cap ...... into the pot at each watering. When you're about to drop the 4th or 5th item in the pot, fertigate (fertilize + irrigate). The plant should not sit in the effluent that exits the drain hole. Flushing the soil purposely flushes salts from the soil. Allowing the plant to sit in the effluent allows the salts removed from the soil a pathway back into the soil, undoing your efforts. Questions or concerns? Al