hepl please, help to rid these pest , now there on most of my plants
6 years ago
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- 6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
- 6 years ago
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*Geez HELP please with now 2 orchids in trouble & with planting..
Comments (12)Hi jennie, "Tepid water ? What is this ?" Lukewarm ~ it's easier on the plant, than icy cold. The spray I used was called "Schultz Expert Gardener Houseplants and Gardens Insect Spray," but is no longer available by that name. The essential part is that the active ingredients are Pyrethrins 0.02% and Piperonyl Butoxide Technical 0.20%. You should be able to find Schultz's new product or one with the same ingredients at any garden center. The label should list your bug as a target insect and orchids as safe to use on. Just follow the directions on the bottle, but avoid spraying blooms, because they will not survive. I sprayed as noted in my first message, but picked the cottony bugs off of the plant and flowers by hand. You could also use any brand of insecticidal soap or neem oil listed for orchids (and mealybugs), but I have never used them. Maybe someone here can recommend a brand for you. The sap is called "honeydew." Some orchids put it out at different parts of their growth cycles. One of my Phals formed tiny drops of it around the edges of a half grown leaf this spring. It had no bugs, so I think it was just getting rid of a little excess water through little openings (stomata) under the leaf edge. Another Phal puts out a drop or two from tiny glands below the bud just before each bud opens. A third reason for honeydew formation is insect injury; so, when you see it, check your plant for sucking insects, just in case. It is ok to use a little alcohol diluted with lukewarm water to wipe up the honeydew--probably a good idea, too, since it can attract insects, as well as provide a starting medium for some molds. About watering ~ Because seasons and sun exposure change throughout the year, and because your plant uses water at different rates, whether blooming, growing, or resting, it is not really advisable to water on a schedule (like, every so-many days). It is important to take care not to overwater, as this is the cause of most root rot. To test for watering some use a dulled shishkebab skewer, left in the medium, pulling it out to check moisture level by touching it to cheek or lip. If it is damp or cool, the medium is still damp. Others can gauge moisture by how heavy or light the pot is when they lift it. I use the more direct finger test for moisture, described in my first message. Phals can take a little direct sun, but not as much as some orchids. If you lay your hand on a leaf exposed to the sun, and it feels more than a little warm to the touch, you may need to adjust its placement to prevent sunburn. Your Florida orchid sounds like it may be a Cattleya, about which I know next to nothing. If you can post a picture of it, I'm sure someone here can help you with any questions you have about it. I hope that helps a bit. Sweetcicely...See MorePlease help me ID the pest destroying my nursery!!!!
Comments (37)Sneaky little thing, huh? I haven't had to trap one of those but did have to use glue traps for field mice some years ago, had to because we had small children and anything else was dangerous for them. Our squirrels won't go after peanuts or pb but bird seeds (black sunflower currently) will lure them into the havaheart trap (we release them into the big park a couple miles away). Good luck getting that thing John, he's eating you out of flora and fauna! ;)...See MoreCitrus Pests - What do I try next to get rid of them?
Comments (15)Hey heavensabvus1, you keep getting rid of these critters but if you enhance the natural immunity on your plants, you may be able to deter these bugs for the long term. I recommend working some worm castings into your soil or better yet, innoculate your soil with worms. Worm castings contain an enzyme called chitinase which eats away the shells of many insects. It will take a while for your plants to absorb these enzymes but it will save you a lot of trouble down the road. You may also want to innoculate your soil with beneficial bacteria and fungi. You can buy prepackaged organic fertilizers like Kelloggs at Home Depot that already have these organisms. These organisms form a symbiotic relation with your plant and soil rhizosphere and protect the plant and inhibit insect attacks by several mechanisms. One of these mechanisms is the direct infection of insects by some of the fungal or microbial organisms. Some of these microbial organisms, the bacillus species for example, are naturally found in the soil and certain bacteria and fungi can directly infect and eventually kill harmful insects. To get rid of your pests, I would also highly recommend putting out ant bait stations. Ants innoculate plants with aphids in order to create a steady supply of sweet plant sap. The ants pretty much farm the aphids. By getting rid of ants around your property, you should see a dramatic decrease in your aphid population. To directly kill the aphids, I recommend using Chrysanthemum tea. Chrysanthemum contains a chemical called Pyrethrin which act as a mild natural insecticide. You will have to spray your trees every couple of days for about a week or two untill the insects finally realize its futile. The aphids will eventually come back and you will have to spray again but hopefully your tree has absorbed enough chitinase from the worm castings and also your beneficial bacteria and mycohrizzal fungi would have established itself well enough in your potting soil that even if the bugs did come back, they will take one bite out of your plant, vomit a little, and scuddle to your neighbors yard for some greener pastures :) Beware of those ant bait traps around pets, small children and rain however. If it rains heavily in your area, the poison can get washed into your soil. I try to stay organic but I haven't found a good way of getting rid of ant aside from the bait stations. Good luck with your citrus!...See MorePlease help! trying to figure out what pest/disease I'm dealing with!
Comments (6)Flowerlillies: I have seen this before. It appears to be scale. Get several Q-tips and a bottle of Isopropyl alcohol. Pour some of the alcohol into the cap of the bottle. Dip the Q-tip into the alcohol. Now, wherever you see those white, powdery patches on the leaves and stems of your plants, rub the Q-tip on them. Make sure all the white patches are dabbed well. If you've already done this and still need help, you will not like my next suggestion. You most likely have them on the roots of your plants which is why you are seeing deformity. They are literally, slowly, eating the plants alive. What I have done in the past is re-plant any and all plants in the affected plants vicinity. I took no chances. I know this is a pain and labor intensive but being on a balcony actually makes this easier to do. If you have a lot of container plants, work them in batches. Unplant 3 or 4 of them. Make sure to do it over a box or trash bag to catch any of the possibly infected soil. get another plastic bag and gently wrap the roots of the plant and carry it over to the sink or bathtub. Submerge the entire plant in luke warm water with a mild dish detergent. Use just a capful of detergent. Dunk the entire plant, count to ten then do it again. Do this with the rest of your plants, again, working in batches of 3 or 4 if you have many. Before you re-plant make sure you use fresh, new soil. Discard any old soil you've had. There is obviously something in there that is attractive to this pest. Also, what I do is take the soil in batches inside a large plastic container and Nuke it in the microwave for at least 1 minute. This will kill nearly anything such as larvae living in the soil. When the soil has come back to a normal temperature, I mix in my fertilizer, perlite and any other additive. But, more importantly, I spray the soil with Neem Oil. Spray liberally and mix it into the new soil. Make sure to wash your containers in hot soapy water. Now you can re-plant. I would spray the plants with Neem oil at least every 7-10 days. Once this infestation is over with, I would still as a preventive measure spray them once a month and lightly spray the top part of the soil as well. Hope this helps, best of luck- NJC...See More- 6 years ago
- 6 years ago
- 6 years ago
- 6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoBill Muncie thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
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