It is true. The gallardia is toast and needs to be tossed. Your soil appears to be compacted and gallardia needs freely draining soil. This means loose soil with tiny air pockets. If there is a Lowe's near you they sell bagged soil conditioner for less than $4. This is what most compacted soil needs as it contains small pieces of pine bark that keeps the soil from packing down again. It gets mixed into the top 6 inches of the soil after you have turned and loosened it with the garden fork or with a shovel. It is likely that tha water you gave it was more than it needed, but not lossening the soil was probably the biggest problem. A free soil test from your county agrigcultural agent would be a great place to start with any amendments that you may need. If I don't have a soil test and can't wait for one, I just use soil conditioner, a little lime, and bagged dry cow compost in small amounts dug thoroughly into the soil. You may not need lime if your soil is not acidic. I never fertilize new transplants. It is best to let them begin to grow slowly into their new soil. Most of us have made the same mistakes as you and learned from our mistakes. Thats why this forum is so helpful. Once you get the area dug and replanted, be sure to mulch, with shredded pine bark mulch if it is available. This mulch will break down and improve your soil also.

Less water is BETTER for succulents, if the soil is still damp when you push your finger into the soil the your prob over watering your plants, if it's really dry your prob NOT watering enough, if the soil is damp put them in a sunny window after they have spent some time in indirect light so they DON'T sunburn, And don't water again until the soil is completely dry through out the soil, if dry try using a spray bottle for watering. So you can control the water flow. All plants are different And have different needs, so when you find a routine that works stick with it, and Make sure you are using a fast draining succulent &cacti soil so they thrive

Don Juan is not your usual climber. It starts blooming right away. Its kind of like a pillar rose in that it blooms all over, not just on lateral canes, so you can train it up a pillar and it will still bloom. It will bloom even more however if you "peg" it (train it as horizontal as possible). I don't know how cold hardy it is, because I live in South Florida, but I do know that it is one of the best performers for our heat, so that makes me believe that it does not like the cold. I once asked the owner of a local nursery why she didn't sell roses and she said it was because it was just a "slow death" for them here in SoFl (my rose garden would beg to differ) and that the only rose she knew that did well here was Don Juan. Well, there are many roses that do well here, but Don Juan does not only do well here, it thrives. But many others just perish in our heat or succumb to disease no matter how much to fuss over them. Save yourself alot of heart ache and get yourself a rose that is KNOWN to do well in your area. It will be worth your time and money for many years of beautiful blooms and alot less work to get them. You don't want to be fighting an uphill battle, especially when there are SO many great roses that will do will in your area. :)

I thought it looks like an aroid still, too, but I didn't know where to look! From what I have read Pinellia pedatisecta has at least 7 lobes per leaf, but otherwise, it is rather similar. Maybe my sources are off, or it's a relative. It came as a fat "bulb"-like thing. I'm not sure if there are any Gardenias that do that (I hope not, I'm not sure I have the ability to care for a gardenia!)