vented hood thru ceiling, attic and roof worth the cost?
Mira C
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
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Anyone with a vent-a-hood -venting out the wall and not up????
Comments (2)We have vent-a-hood model #PRH9 which is vented out through the wall (Our range is on the outside wall). I don't know what the "BV model" is, but an "8-inch elbow" had to be be special ordered from a local heating store (I think it cost about $30). The 'venting duct' goes straight up and then 'bends' to go out the wall. HTH (I'm not that technical, but proper venting was a BIG concern of mine with my kitchen remodel)....See Morenew hole in roof for vent hood
Comments (2)Any competant roofer can do the job. Of course there's a chance of a leak if it's not done correctly. As a matter of fact, there's a chance of two leaks. Cost is gotten by calling contractors in your area and getting estimates as cost is locally driven. and dependant on the type of sheet roof you have. There are a few. Do you know which sheet-type roof you have? Whether you can use the original roof vent is dependant on the new fans requirements such as duct size and maximum allowable duct run. The duct run is not only measured in linear feet. You need to take into consideration turns which can add 5' for every turn you make. Ron Ron...See MoreWhere to cut roof vent for range hood
Comments (16)Thanks, I can picture a "T-Top" vent. However, do they have a damper or screen. We are in a cold climate and squirels and birds are a concern. The manufacture for the range hood calls for their roof vent with damper and screen (Broan 634). I purchased one but may return it if there is a better option. Take a look at the link and tell me if you think it will last and maybe suggest a way to secure the screen in there better (it just is held into place without screw or glue, squirel could push it thru maybe. ) Here is a link that might be useful: broan roof vent...See MoreBest by Broan Range Hood (WPP9) v Vent-A-Hood (Magic Lung)?
Comments (51)Broan/NuTone/Best make a large range of ventilation equipments and generally you get what you pay for as far as I can tell. However, why a "high end" appliance dealer wouldn't include some other brands is unclear. At a minimum, I would expect a Wolf dealer to have examples of Wolf hoods. (My hood is a Wolf, made by Independent before Wolf moved production in-house.) Decide how high you want the hood for good site lines and reaching to the back burners, and missing one's head, while keeping in mind that the front burners will be emitting plumes that expand as they rise, so height corresponds to increases in needed overlap -- side to side and front to back. 10 degrees from vertical measured from the flame diameters when pans are on the burners can be used for plume expansion estimation. Sketch it out. Given a height and hence width and depth, calculate the square footage of the entry aperture of the hood. For wall hoods the light bar in the front may qualify as partial or whole entry aperture area. Multiply area by 90 CFM/sq. ft. Multiply by 1.5 if you don't know all the pressure losses. Find a blower that has that result as a rated value. Decide on in-hood, in attic (in line), or on roof. Farther away is generally quieter. If there is room for a silencer (Fantech) between blower and hood then the result will be quieter still. There is a lot of dissension about ease of hood cleaning by type. I can say that my Wolf hood baffle assemblies easily remove and can be cleaned in a dishwasher. (I have ten of these, so it takes two loads.) One still wants to reach up inside and wipe the surfaces. I use Simple Green, but likely there are myriad possible choices. I have never owned a VaH, and was initially repulsed (2007) by the Magic Lung® claims. Others like them. If you have guests sitting where they can see into the hood, a baffle system may be aesthetically superior. Duct should be sized so that full power actual flow rate achieves a velocity in the duct between 1000 and 2000 ft/min for best balance between grease condensation and grease impingement. You can go lower (larger duct) if you pre-heat the duct in cold weather. On CFM focus. Standard (if that actually ever applies) residential hoods are designed to fit into residential kitchens. Commercial hoods are designed to fit into commercial kitchens. At a minimum, the typical difference is two feet of ceiling height. When the commercial hood can be built so that there is tremendous volume below its baffles, there are conditions where the specific flow rate (CFM/sq. ft.) can be reduced below the value I suggested above. This is due to "baffle averaging" resulting from the reservoir volume vs. plume steady state and transient volumetric rates. At the other extreme, residential hoods with little volume below the baffles will allow plume escape (capture failure) if the plumes are not immediately entrained into the baffle flow. And, of course, plumes not initially captured are not contained and removed except as a matter of long term kitchen (and whole house) air replacement. So CFM focus varies. Another difference is that commercial hoods are typically operated at a fixed CFM and the MUA is balanced for this case, whereas residential hoods, along with bathroom fans, etc., operate at variable CFM, and this makes the MUA control more complex....See MoreMira C
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoAngel 18432
6 years agojmdrouin
6 years agoMira C
6 years agoschreibdave
6 years agocpartist
6 years agoMira C
6 years agoMira C
6 years agoschreibdave
6 years agoMira C
6 years agoVith
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoschreibdave
6 years agoMira C
6 years agocyc2001
6 years agoMira C
6 years ago
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