Cabinet Modification Above Range?
sagoldst
6 years ago
As part of a house renovation, we are painting the cabinets in the kitchen and replacing the appliances. The vent needs to be 30 inches above the range to be code compliant (not the current 24 inches). Meaning we will need to modify the cabinet above the vent. Any thoughts on how to deal with this situation and not make a bigger project than necessary?
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Height of range hood above range
Comments (4)As a former kitchen designer, I had to do some checking, as my memory failed me with regard to this issue. Guidelines indicate a hood should be 28" to 36" above the cooking surface. Average is 32". That being said, an island hood requires a significant amount of air movement due to the fact that the room air can move in all directions. When a hood is on a wall, that basically brings the back of the hood down to the cooktop area. That being said, drawing blood is not a very good sacrifice for efficiency, as sdeng mentioned. Hoods should also be 3 to 6" wider than the cook top. In an island, larger is better. The other consideration would be the type of cooking you do. If you do a bit of frying, a good vent will be critical. Hope that helps......See MoreExcessive clearance required for cabinets above a Miele range?
Comments (36)Well, after looking at some options, we are likely just going to give up the space to get the Miele 36" DF Range. Probably comprise and get a 42" hood and allow an additional 6" (3" on each side) around the outside of the hood to meet the requirement. Per Miele, they offer two options for this stove starting in November. You can lower the BTU of the 5 burners to around 15,000 (6th lower power burner is also reduced) to not have the additional (6+6) requirement. Also, if you don't get a 24" depth hood, they recommend to lower the output again to something like 12,000. I think the main issue is that 5 of the 6 burners are rated to 19,600. The last burner is rated at 12,500. I think some other manufactures have different outputs across which results in a lower total BTU. Example, Wolf 36 DF has 1 - 9,200,2 - 15,000.2 - 18,000.1 - 20,000. The person I spoke to said they were concerned about the various cabinets customers are installing and want to make things safe based upon the total output of this range which is 110,000 BTU. Guess we can all agree or disagree with them. Whatever the reasons, we really like this range and will try and change the design of the cabinets to fit it in. I also agree with everyone that having a larger hood is probably a good idea anyway....See Moregas pipe for slide in range modification questions
Comments (49)bry911--your insurance company and mortgage companies would beg to differ. And you'll be begging them in court if anything goes wrong. Mortgages and insurance in condo/co-op type buildings are specified to certain wall surfaces. There are people who work for those companies whose job it is to write and check those things. I have a friend who did that. I have done the entire primer on insurance policies before and I simply don't want to rehash it now. For some reason I did an entire thread over HO3, HO5 and HO6 policies. What is covered and what can be denied. Can you present some reasonable grounds for an HO6 policy to deny a claim based on a two inch notch in the drywall? Please provide some evidence of that happening, because this is something I have looked at several times and I can't find any instance of an insurance company prevailing when denying because of a non-conforming work that was an indirect factor in the damage. Most states (probably every state) will have insurance regulations that specifically prevent this. Let's also not forget that most (really all) HO6 policies specifically protect you from being sued for your own negligence? So the entire assertion is beyond ridiculous. For them to deny your damage they would have to demonstrate that the notch caused the damage. In the end, they are not going to do anything different because you notched your drywall. If they are looking for an excuse to deny your claim they are going to find one and hold to it until someone makes them pay. Finally, if you are actually worried about the wall assembly squirt a little great stuff fireblock in it and be done with it. ----- ETA: Just to be clear (and we are speaking generally because each case is a bit nuanced), insurance has some small leeway to decline to reimburse you for your negligence. However, there are many caveats with this. First, negligence is more than doing something wrong, it is doing something that is unreasonably wrong. I feel confident that I would prevail when the insurance company claimed that making a 4" x 1" notch in drywall to get a range in is not reasonable. I feel confident that I can find thousands of exhibits to prove this is done a lot, and that is all you would really need to do to defeat a negligence claim. Next, in reality that negligence must border on intentional. The classic example given is a water pipe leak that the homeowner lets happen for a week before calling someone to stop it. The biggest reason that homeowner claims get denied is not negligence it is indifference. Written into your policy there is a demand that you act to mitigate your insurance company's liability. You must take reasonable action to stop damage from worsening. Furthermore, the severe negligence must be the proximate cause of your damages rather than an indirect factor. If that were the case insurance would never pay out they would just find something that you did wrong that made the situation worse. For example, you probably have chemicals stored improperly in your home, and in case of a fire those improperly stored chemicals might act as accelerants, and so insurance could walk into practically every home and deny the claim based on that fact. So to prevent this most states (I would presume every state) has rules against using secondary items to deny claims. Finally, insurance would still reimburse your mortgage company if they denied claims on personal property for reimbursement so throwing the mortgage company in was just silly. I could just keep on going, but the point being there are lots of scary stories about insurance but the reality is that insurance is a highly regulated industry and once you have some real insight into the industry you would be surprised how many of those big bad wolf stories are misconceptions....See MoreMy white kitchen cabinets above the range are starting to yellow.
Comments (13)First, the design is not sufficiently deep to provide good capture area. It’s a pretty bad hood design. Read about good hood design. https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2315922/wall-hoods-for-wok-cooking Second, the fact that you don’t know anything about the insert says that it’s the cheapest worst quality that they could buy. Because... Third. The Site painted cabinets coated with house paint are the cheapest possible route for a builder to go. So, that’s hand in hand with all of the above. It’s completely the wrong way to go for any type of durability or quality. But it looks good enough for a while. Enough to get you past the one year warranty. Sometimes. What you needed was a custom maker who finished in his clean room to KCMA standards. Or a manufactured line that was tested to KCMA standards. https://www.kcma.org/certifications/ansi-kcma-standard Fourth. The finish that was there was ruined by the sandpaper abrasiveness of the Magic Eraser and the chemicals in PineSol. Pine oil is a terrible contaminant that blocks adhesion of any future finish. Someone could try to repaint those, but the existing contamination would bleed through and create issues with fisheye, bubbling, and just general adhesion. For a for now fix, I’d remove the hood and buy a stainless one. It at least will be better ventilation, and cleanable. It addresses the immediate issue, and upgrades the style to a more modern direction both. Long term, the rest of your cabinets will experience the issues that your hood cabinet has. The builder gave you below industry standard quality. It will not wear well. Having all of that contaminated porous coating sanded back to bare wood to start over with a higher quality and more durable coating will cost more than buying new cabinets. It’s very labor intensive. If the existing coating was primed with the right stuff, and is adhering well enough now, and hasn’t been too contaminated by oils or silicone, then it might be possible to have them recoated with a professional grade coating at a later time. That would run you roughly 10K + for the cabibets in your house. How much + depends on how many cabinets and the details. I’d reserve judgement on that project for a few years and just live with what is, and a new stainless hood, for now. And never ever scrub anything with a magic eraser, or use pine sol on anything that isn’t non porous. Or bleach. Or any one of a half dozen cleaners that ruin finishes and should only be used on non porous surfaces. Dusting with a soft dampened microfiber is all most cabinets should need. If there has been spills, or you don’t fix your inadequate ventilation and have grease floating around attaching itself, then Dawn, a microfiber, and then rinsing the detergent residue, should be all of the big guns ever needed on cabinets. They are furniture. In your kitchen. But half the junk you use on your furniture isn’t needed and is bad for it too. So no oil anything. No pledge. No freaking oil soap. Or orange glow. Or anything that has oil or silicone in it anywhere. No abrasives. Do you know that paper towels with recycled content are abrasive? Don’t use them on cabinets or furniture. Most “furniture care” products damage things. Planned obsolescence to keep the consumer buying at maximum....See More
User
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoInstead of believing the guesses from the psychic friends network above, you should go by the clearances listed in the instruction manual of the specific hood you will be installing. The code does not say that just any old hood can be lowered, but "in accordance with the listing and labeling".
sagoldst thanked Usersagoldst
6 years ago
Fori
6 years agoUser
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
jmm1837
6 years agoUser
6 years ago1) the hood must be listed for the lower clearance.
2) the cabinet must ALSO be protected with millboard or a ¼" air gap if the bottom of the wood is less than 30", but in no case lower than 24"
Waynette Bailey
6 years agohousegal200
6 years agoSpeaking as someone with painted white cabinets, which saved ugly but well-made cabinets, it does seem a shame to ruin beautiful cherry cabinets with paint. IMO, this kitchen just needs high-end stainless appliances and under-cabinet lighting for a sophisticated beautiful kitchen. Apologies for not answering your question.
User
6 years ago
Julie B
6 years ago
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