Hand railing vs code in narrow Colonial stairs
DYH
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
I have a 1939 Colonial (with historical provenance) that I spent a year renovating.
Fortunately, the inspector didn't force me to a add a code railing to my stair since the stairs are original and it's impossible to make a continuous railing without removing the original newel posts, baluster and spindles.
However, when my grandchildren visit, they need a railing and I'd like to add something.
The problem is, the space is so narrow, that to move any furniture up and down the steps, I'd like the railing to be easily removable and reattached.
The width is 36" until you get to the 2nd floor trim, then it shrinks to 33 inches.
Advice?
Thanks!
View 1:
The paneling is solid wood (though dried out), not over sheetrock. Ceilings are original plaster.
View 2:
The upper walls are plaster over lathe.
Detail 1:
Detail 2:
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Comments (16)
DYH
6 years agoRelated Discussions
stair rails: cable vs wood
Comments (4)In my experience it is usually architects who are concerned about the liability for designing guards that can be climbed. I know of no national building code restriction regarding the orientation of the elements that are used to prevent a 4" sphere from passing through a guard. However, there might be local restrictions. Another concern with cable guards is maintaining sufficient tension to prevent the code required maximum opening dimension from increasing when someone press on them or tries to climb them. The tough parts to design are the ends where the cables must be well anchored and able to be stretched....See MoreExtortion from Contractor- $11K-$14K for basic stair railing?
Comments (26)I wasn't confused about the railing vs. stairs, that was quite clear in the original post. But it sounds like you signed a contract with an open ended price after getting a second contractor bid for $4800 and now the first one is saying $11-$14K. Wow. I like what GN Builders said, get more estimates. I recently got 4 bids for mudjacking a sinking driveway, and they varied from $978 to $4600. Not taking either the high or the low - it's going to be about $2k. Incredible what stuff costs. But unless you do it yourself or have a woodworker friend, you're at the mercy of the market. If you have kids, get them interested in mechanical trades, either as a hobby or career. You'll help increase the labor pool and competition, and they can do stuff for you free. :-D...See MoreNarrow stairs, no railing now. What to do?
Comments (25)I think Saypoint's railing is exactly what I'll have to do and remind the carpenter who installs it that I need to be able to unscrew the brackets (using a drill screwdriver) when moving. The inset handrail would unfortunately, be at least a $10,000 expense. Those are load-bearing walls, so the studs can't be notched out. We'd have to open up the wall, install a new beam to hold up the 2nd story floor and attic, etc. Then, in the basement, we'd have to add another beam, open up the stairwell down-- and add new footings to fit the weight distribution. It could even involve removing the stairs and reinstalling. I saw what's involved when my dining room doors were widened. An engineer had to specify the correct beams for the door and under the first floor, along with these huge iron footings/jacks to hold up the new support because they couldn't dig new footings in the crawlspace. I'll have to add the rail on the left because the right side has two 1939 -era HVAC ducts going up through the wall. I'd have to have one of those punctured. On the left, there's the closet at the front, and the pantry at the back. Thanks for all the creative and thoughtful responses!...See MoreStairway Handrail Help Please
Comments (18)Lyndee Lee: Center city Philadelphia is filled with old, old houses (well, old by American standards--pre-Revolution), some quite small with very small winder staircases. In some of them there is a vertical grab bar as you describe, but my favorite solution is a very thick rope. It just suits the age of the houses. And, if you look carefully, above the front door, you will sometimes see a 'mattress slot'. The floor above is removable between two beams so that mattresses could be lifted up there; they can't go around the winder staircase....See MoreDYH
6 years agoDYH
6 years agoDYH
6 years ago
maire_cate
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoI agree with Salti - go with a single railing on the right and try to match the existing railing.
This is what the railing looks like in our home. There are 8 steps up to a landing and then another 4 steps to the second floor.
DYH thanked maire_cate
User
6 years ago
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