Laura, Oops, the link didn't work and I know I looked at it right before I hit submit and it was there then. Let me try it again and we'll see if it 'stays' where I put it this time. Don't become too discouraged. We still have the rest of June and all of July, August, September and October--and probably November...before the first freeze comes. You still have tons of time to get tomatoes. Y'all still have reasonable temps and heat indexes up there, so tomato set should still occur....unlike here (my time to whine) where I have been driven in from the garden today by a measley old high temp of 90 degrees, but a heat index of 101. One-oh-one. What did we do to deserve that? Texas is getting the rain and we're getting the humidity, and that doesn't help the dry soil at all. I want to trade my weather for somebody else's weather. Your plants ought to correct quickly if it is waterlogging. Dig a trowel down into the soil right between two plants and see if it has that mucky, sour swampy smell of soil that's been wet too long. --If it does, you'll have to wait it out. --If it doesn't, your soil is already drying and your plants probably need a good feeding to boost them. I'd run straight to the store (or the garage or garden shed if you already have some plant food in it) and get them some Miracle Grow for Tomatoes or, even better, one of the Bloom Booster fertilizers like the one MG makes or Super Bloom (my favorite, and my Lowe's here carries it). Feed them to help them recover from the overabundance of rainfall. In this case, because you want a quick boost for them, a synthetic fertilizer is preferred to an organic one because most organic ferts are slow-release, and you need fast-release in this instance. The plants ought to take off and go mad with growth if their problem is a lack of nourishment due to previous waterlogging. Their leaves will untwist and uncurl and return to a healthy green. My plants last year took about a full month to start looking 'right' and growing at a fast rate after the waterlogging began drying out, but they made an amazing comeback and I bet yours will too. If you feed them, and see a general green-up or new growth, but the old growth stays twisty, then let's worry about a virus or something. Right now, though, without seeing your plants and based on your description, I just think they're hungry. It could be the heavy rains washed available nutrients out of the soil or it could be the roots have been clogged with water and couldn't take up nutrients or it could be both. When you feed them, wet down the ground and wet down the foliage so they can maybe absorb some nutrition both ways--via the roots and via the foliage. Don't give up on your tomatoes. Those plants WANT to grow and produce fruit, but the excess moisture has stopped them. All they need, most likely, is a good feeding and several days without rain to allow the soil to dry up and you'll be back on the road to 'happy times' in the tomato patch. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: TAMU Tomato Problem Solver

Are you referring to plant growth being faster for cherries, or if cherries ripen up faster than non-cherries, Fact is that many cherry varieties have DTM's, meaning time to ripe cherries, have DTM's that are way longer than larger fruited varieties. It all depends on which specific cherries grown and which specific large fruited varieties grown Carolyn

I agree - there are claims that you can increase your yield up to 30% with the use of a electric pollinator. I am using an electric toothbrush this year and I have seen a difference in fruit set - IMO. Here is a link to an interesting product - take a look and watch the video too. I have never tried the "collection pollen" method - but perhaps that would even increase my % of fruit set? The VegiBee is more expensive than an electric toothbrush but may last longer? Has anyone tried one? http://vegibee.com I am not convinced that with the number of blossoms if have to pollinate and the high current success we have with fruit set that I have time to collect the pollen on a spoon and stick the stigmas into the extra pollen. But I am convinced that the use of an electric toothbrush or a pollenating tool such as the VegiBee increases fruit size and fruit set! So far - the first fruit that has set on the plants in our GH is the largest size fruit that I have ever had set - even on the same varieties I have grown in the past. Maybe just a coincidence? Here are some examples - all of these are approaching (if not already) one pound. They were the first to set fruit in our GH this year and although the should ripen soon - they are still growing! Brandywine Sudduth Big Brandy Brandy Boy

Janice: According to Clemson I was within the planting window but towards the end ( I am in the central area). I planted April 15th (planting for my area is April 5-25). But you do have a good point about planting earlier. I usually like to plant at least some early (in March) under row covers to get earlier fruit. I do know that this year fruiting (and also my leaf yellowing problem that seems somehow linked to fruiting) is at least a few weeks later than normal. But I chalked that up to the high-nitrogen chicken manure which caused a lot of green leafy growth at the expense of fruit. Two years ago I grew peppers with great success, I've tried squash and cucumbers in these beds 2 or 3 years ago which both failed miserably. But I have added a lot of lime and fertilizer since then. My pH in these beds 2 years ago was 4.0 -5.5 so one would not expect squash to do well. Last two or three years these beds have had tomatoes and peppers, because I care the most about tomatoes and wanted to put them where there was the most sun. Thanks so much for your time. It's been very helpful. :)