Suggestions for blankets?
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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- 8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
- 8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
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How to protect potted roses on deck?
Comments (2)I'm not surprised that your roses didn't winter inside. Most homes do not have anywhere near the right conditions to make them happy. It's better to let them go dormant and protect them. Michael has good advice for winterizing them outside. That is exactly how I winter my 40 some potted roses. But if you have an unheated garage and only a few pots you can also winter them in there. Put them on blocks off the cement floor and water them once a month all winter and they should do OK. The reason you need to water them is because inside the garage they won't be getting any rain or snow on them, I have one rose that goes in my shed for the winter. What I usually do is dump a shovel full of snow on the top of the pot when ever we shovel. They don't need a lot of water but they do need some all winter long....See MorePet blanket patterns/suggestions?
Comments (2)Alison, that is such a thoughtful idea! I would call the shelter first, if they don't have room for them call your local vet. I work for a vet and we always need more blankets. Pass on the cedar chips though, it can cause allergy problems and skin irritations for many dogs. I would not use batting or anything either, that is one reason we use so many. They love to rip the stuffing out. The "lambswool" stuff would be great if you could sew them firmly together like a quilted top. Most floors are concrete and the sheepskins help cut the cold feel....See MoreNeed help with a "shady" dilemna
Comments (5)Hi Earth Sister! Could you wrap heavy duty alumium foil around the Rubbermaid feed troughs to see if it would deflect the light and the heat? Well, I suppose it might reflect enough light to start some grass on fire, so maybe that wouldn't work. I haven't tried it. How about something sturdier than burlap and maybe less expensive like a brown tarp? I think the row cover might work, but it degrades when exposed to lots of UV rays, so you'd be shortening the life of your row cover, although I am not sure by how much time the life of it would be shortened. If they make a shiny aluminum house wrap, you could use that, but it might be more costly than the burlap would be. Old white bedsheets would work if you happen to have some of them. You maybe could use plywood to build boxes that sit around the part of your troughs that face the sun and leave a few inches of air space between the troughs and the plywood? This would be an especially economical solution if you have plywood scraps stashed away somewhere. I've seen people use cardboard as a shield around containers, but it only works until the cardboard blows away or sort of dissolves after a lot of heavy rain. (Of course, it might not rain again this summer, so that might not be an issue.) Or, use a paint made for painting plastic to paint the troughs white. Sometimes, when I have grown sweet potatoes in a round galvanized metal stock tank, I have surrounded the stock tank with smaller containers of flowering plants so that the bulk of the sunlight was hitting the flowering plants' containers, and not the sides of the stock tank. Once the sweet potatoes hit a certain point and have lots of vines, I let those cascade down over the outside of the stock tank and provide shade for its sides. I hope you find a way to keep your sweet potatoes cooler and happier. Dawn...See MoreHelp! GC put AC compressor under my bedroom window
Comments (58)(Sorry for the confusion about which post to reply to - I'm not familiar with forum ettiquet and had started a new thread when I should have stuck with this one). The 24anb6 is a single stage. All conversations are centered around a 3 ton unit. The ducts are in the attic space. The original house was 1140q ft. The addition is about 488q ft. The original house (1950s) has a metal ducting trunkline system that runs in a dropped ceiling in the 12' long central hallway. The new ducting is in a jumble in the attic of the addition, with a big box thing (a baffle?) and 4.5" ducts curling around everywhere - even back to the front rooms of the original house. Apparently code has changed and new 'jumper' vents needed to be installed in all the rooms? Before that ceiling was closed up, I got a glimpse up there and noticed that it looked like and orgy of Robby the Robots - probably not the most efficient thing ever. If it's true that with the ductwork currently installed would not support a more efficient unit in the future without ripping out walls, I think this makes an even stronger case for upgrading the equipment now. (I work at home and I plan on living at this house a long, long time.). I was told when to pick out plumbing fixtures, hardware, lighting, etc...I guess expected to be told when to decide on the other choices involved. If the GC had asked, I could be looking at paying 10 or 11K for exactly what I want - a 2-stage, high-efficiency, quiet unit. Instead I'm having to choose between paying nearly 9k for stuff I don't want or - it seems from this email - paying twice for the install and associated repairs in addition to the upgrade. I'm going to push for exactly what I want. The GC is working up estimates for the Carrier Infinity 17, 19, and 21 SEER units. I have no problem paying the difference in the cost of the equipment, or even the cost the have the install done 'right', which I assume means moving the trunkline up to the attic and having a single trunkline.* I'm sure things will get sticky when we start discussing who pays for what. It would be so helpful to be able to get objective estimates from a neutral party on what the original install should have cost and what the install that I'm requesting will cost. Is that ever done? I'll post any progress as it happens. Thank so much for your feedback. It has so helpful in getting clarity on this situation! ************ *The email I received this morning regarding my request to move forward with the estimates for the 17, 19 and 21 seer units: "The 17,19,21 Seer units besides being even more expensive will likely require more duct replacement, more sheetrock removal, etc. as this will snowball the work; time frame would increase accordingly. " and "Regarding the duct work replacement, it should be noted that the metal ducting trunkline system & some ducting that pre-existed in your home is still in place & that airflow supply system may need to be upsized as well, as the Seer rating increases, expanding the scope of other sheetrock & installation repairs as well." It would seem that he really doesn't want me to upgrade...From what I can gather the difference in cost of the equipment between the builder-grade Comfort series and the Infinity series is about $1,500 - about 1% of the total project cost....See More- 8 years ago
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