Our friends have vinyl planks (wood look) in their entranceway & love it. We had Pergo professionally installed in a staircase about 10 years ago, and it did not hold up well at all. When DH put in laminate (wood look) throughout the rest of the house (including kitchen), a different couple insisted that we were lowering the value of the house. They said we should put hardwood (we couldn't afford hardwood throughout). They have now had their hardwood refinished, less than 5 years after their install, because of scratches from pets. P.S. love all the pics posted - beautiful homes.

Plywood? It doesn’t have the compressive strength to serve as flooring. Save your effort in creating dirt stripes with big dents that you want to rip out ASAP. It’s as bad a 5 minutes of TV kludge as glueing hay in the walls or using bricks in a shower or using garage floor epoxy over laminate counters.

OK...if you REALLY want to go over this, you are about to spend more money that it would cost to remove the tile: #1: Flooring professional will THOROUGHLY clean the tile (with big machine and strong detergents); and allow to dry (1 day or more if you include the dry time) #2: Flooring professional will rough up the tile (big sanding machine - tapping off all cupboards, air vents, walls, etc) - clean up (shop vac) will take another or two #3: Cement topping (like feather compound) will be added to the floor to ensure you achieve "flat and level" (grout lines are NOT flat; tiles/stone are NEVER flat nor level); should take a few days including cure times #4: Light sanding to knock down any pumps; vacuum once again #5: Begin installing vinyl planks #6: Homeowner will add appropriate light-blocking products on windows that allow direct sunlight onto the floor (you are welcome to put down an indoor/outdoor thermometer in the sunny patch to record TOP temps in summer. Most vinyls HATE heat above 85F. That is tough combat with windows that are older than 10 years. The Korean-designed vinyl products can reach much higher temps (EZ Lay or Drop N Done) and are specifically designed for in-floor radiant heat. Of course their price tag reflects their ability...but it's what is needed in this situation. Which type of in-floor radiant heat do you have? Electric (wires), hydronic (water/gel/oil) of forced air? Do you have a primary heat source or is the radiant heat the ONLY source of heat in your home?

Vinyl products do NOT like anything soft/squishy underneath them. In fact they can separate or break their own edges if you have underpadding underneath. If the Pergo vinyl has an attached underlayment, then it is DEFINITELY NOT allowed to add anything else. This is NORMAL for vinyl. In fact it is a major drawback for all vinyl products. Underpadding is not allowed with 99.9% of vinyl floating/glue down/perimeter glue products. The installation instructions will tell you what is ALLOWED to be used. If it is listed then it is allowed. If you do NOT see it listed, then it is NOT allowed. It is an easy rule to follow. Continue with the rigid underlayment (like you did in the bathroom). The noise reduction from the attached underlayment is the only padding/accustic insulation you are going to get.