I have a galley too, with laundry off the kitchen, and love the idea of a peninsula. But it's not clear to me that it works well as suggested above - based on your previous posts, you have about 100" in width for the kitchen, right? If you have a 48" wide peninsula (seating for 2) on one side and then a regular depth cabinet on the other (25" including overhang), you've created a chokepoint that is just over 2 feet wide. If my reading of your diagram/dimensions or my math is wrong, forget this point! If not, consider how you use the space. From my read of that last diagram, every time you opened the oven door you would block access to either end of the kitchen. That's not fun (and not the safest thing either if you have lunatic kids like mine.) I'm biased - we just spent a bunch and possibly even reduced our counterspace all for the primary purpose of eliminating that kind of choke point. If you don't get a lot of traffic through the kitchen, then it's probably not a big deal. But I can say that having moved from 33" wide openings at either end to a 48"+ aisle for the whole galley, it feels a thousand times bigger (even though it's really not!) Try mocking up the space with boxes or blue tape and see how it feels.

uscpsycho. I haven't re-read this entire post to understand who did your floors. I am in SoCal, and had a reputable flooring store install my engineered hardwood. I wanted the floorboards close enough to the wall so as not to need quarter round, but I planned for tall baseboard. They assigned their "A-team" to do my install since I was obviously a picky person, and they did a great job. But at least here, where people leave their doors open and no one runs a humidifier or de-humidifier, you have to plan for a certain amount of floor movement. Had I asked them for floors like yours butted up against the wall, no way in h*** would they have installed them like that. They are professionals and would not risk the unhappy outcome. What did you specifiy for your installers? Are they licensed, etc? Where are you located? Hardwood requires humidity/de-humidity and environmental controls. What you're asking is kind of an after-the-fact question. Do you want your floors corrected to be installed according to industry standards and best practices? I would. p.s. I'm not a pro. SJ Mcarthy, etc, please take over the responses now.

And here's a layout that centers the sink under the window. I lose 12" of drawer space and 12" of upper space, but I think I can live with that. Just realized the island isn't positioned right. It'll be 4' from the fridge/stove run. Don't mind that upright paneling. It's supposed to be horizontal, but wouldn't cooperate for the photo. @mama goose_gw zn6OH I had an upper corner cabinet 2 houses ago (not EZ reach; door went diagonal), and didn't find it very usable because of the small opening compared to the shelf space. Feel free to expound on the virtues of an EZ reach upper. Base corner will be EZ reach/super susan)

So we are looking into installing ikea kitchen boxes in kitchen along with wanting to hack a couple of ikea boxes with hardwood doors for entry way, laundry room, and livinf eoom for a built in look. we want to go with an installer /wood worker that is familiar with ikea to help in the the Los Angeles california area. has anyone gone this route and have any recs?