Here's the link : http://www.thriftydecorchick.com/2015/10/my-unusual-backsplash-choice.html?m=1

"Chess's 2 and 7 seem to have tile behind the cooking surface. The last two have a range with the integrated backsplash. They're all fine."

"I think you can run hardie behind a cooktop as anon combustible backsplash"

No, and No. Neither the NFPA/ANSI, or IRC allow any of that as a clearance reduction method.

[https://www.houzz.com/discussions/tile-backsplash-wont-meet-building-code-dsvw-vd~3992018[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/tile-backsplash-wont-meet-building-code-dsvw-vd~3992018)

An "Island trim" is specifically LISTED as a one level island trim ONLY.

Hardie, or any other cement board blocks heat transfer like a sieve holds water.

IRC G2409.2

b. All clearances shall be measured from the outer surface of the combustible material to the nearest point on the surface of the appliance, disregarding any intervening protection applied to the combustible material

Okay, so what are you saying? Just spit it out and stop posting lengthy links.

FWIW, my slide-in range has this in the installation instructions:

Make sure wall covering, countertop and cabinets around the range can withstand

the heat (up to 194 °F) generated by the range. Discoloration, delamination or melting may occur. This range has been designed to comply with the maximum allowable wood cabinet temperature of 194 °F.

The wall behind my range is wood-framed drywall. The range is designed to be installed against the wall. There is a backguard on the range, as there is on most of them I would think.

The layer of tile provides almost 0 protection for the framing behind. If it's dangerous to put a stove next to beadboard, it's just as dangerous to put it next to tile over wood framing.

Yeah that’s what I was thinking. I consider the backsplash as more of a “cleaning ease” and looks thing.

"Okay, so what are you saying? Just spit it out and stop posting lengthy links."

Tile does nothing. Either read the hard to understand the lengthy code, or read one of several lengthy threads that hopefully explain it better. I am not going to regurgitate it all again here, just because a few people are lazy.

FWIW 194°F is a number set as marginally below boiling 212° so that it will not create steam in wood to dry it out and make it easier to ignite.

Yeah I think we realize that tile really does nothing for the fire/heat thing. I thought maybe you were attempting to explain something other than that. I read all your lengthy posts, no laziness here thank you very much. Just didn’t see where you were adding new information and was asking for clarification.

But the 194 is interesting. Good to know.

Chess, what a beautiful collection of photos! 1 and 2 are gorgeous!

I think fire-proof cement board is required in many areas behind tile in front of a gas range. A stainless steel shield could also be used in place of tile.

OP: I love the look of beadboard in a farmhouse style kitchen.

"I think we realize that tile really does nothing for the fire/heat thing." - who is "we", do you have a mouse in your pocket?

"Chess's 2 and 7 seem to have tile behind the cooking surface. The last two have a range with the integrated backsplash. They're all fine."

"I think you can run hardie behind a cooktop as anon combustible backsplash"

Fred S--

I've been without backslash for two years. It's just painted Drywall behind a basic slide-in range. Is painted Drywall not to code either? Yikes.

I try to be code compliant, so I'm sincerely interested. Plus I have to make a backsplash decision sooner than later and would like to do it properly.

Or this one.

"I think fire-proof cement board is required in many areas behind tile in front of a gas range. A stainless steel shield could also be used in place of tile." - someone else that is too lazy to read the long link.

Clearances from NON-combustible materials are NOT part of the ANSI Z21.1 scope and are not certified by CSA.

Fred- I appreciate that you know more about this than me and I've read some of your other posts, but I'll admit I don't totally understand.

It would be helpful to me--if you have the time-- to describe what we can do rather than what we can't? Personally I prefer to start projects knowing the constraints and then work around those to make it look good. What does code allow on the wall behind a range?

Benjesbride, ANYTHING (almost) is acceptable behind a range as long as the backguard is installed....NO amount of tile or stainless applied directly to a wall made with wood studs is acceptable as an alternative to the backguard, or as a means to reduce the clearances required to the combustible material behind the false "protection".

LOL. “We” meaning “most here”. No mouse. :-). As you can see from the last post above, it seems like you are stating that those folks with a range against the wall, a normal wood-framed drywall wall, are in a code-violation situation. Since that is what most folks have, then naturally, you are inviting worry. What I am trying to find out is is if that is your intent. Or are you trying to simply say that a non-tiled wall is as safe as a tiled one?

You CAN install a range using the required clearances listed in the instruction manual to ANY combustible material capable of handling temperatures above 194°, with one caveat. The material has to meet minimum flame spread requirements. Most wood species and drywall meet this.

"Or are you trying to simply say that a non-tiled wall is as safe as a tiled one?" - according to NFPA/ANSI it is as safe. The confusion starts by how the high powered range companies have confused the issue with removable backguard that they try to fleece you on after you buy the range. They advertise the backguard as an option that you buy separately. The only code compliant "option" is whether you put the range in an island or up against the wall, not whether you are required to use the backguard up against that wall -- tiled or not.

Argh. Look as what I wrote above. Durock doesn't insulate.

The backgaurd is usually a certain depth. It's just a spacer.

Fred S, I'm not lazy, and I read the post. Understand that some of us aren't 'inspectors' as I assume you are, or we (meaning I) are/am not able to clearly understand what it is you are saying, or rather not saying. Perhaps if you were helpful and explained it in layman's terms people like myself would be helped, rather than insulted.

I would like to think you are trying to be helpful to the OP and to all else offering suggestions. Could you possibly, in layman's terms, explain what is acceptable and up to code as a backsplash behind a gas range? If not fire-proof cement board with tile over, if not tile on drywall, if not shiplap/beadboard, if not all things mentioned by people attempting to help, then what? I am trying to ask nicely.

ETA: You posted before I hit submit. Thank you.

Benjesbride, the only way to explain it accurately other than that is for you to post the brand and model of your range, so that "we" can use the specific example. All ranges have different clearances based on BTU output.

"You CAN install a range using the required clearances listed in the instruction manual to ANY combustible material capable of handling temperatures above 194°, with one caveat. The material has to meet minimum flame spread requirements. Most wood species and drywall meet this. "

See, if you had written that earlier, then I think there would not have been any confusion from anyone (or request for clarification on my part).

"how the high powered range companies have confused the issue with removable backguard that they try to fleece you on after you buy the range. They advertise the backguard as an option that you buy separately. "

Yes this is something I was not aware of until reading about these fancy ranges here on Houzz. It's amazing that this would be a separate additional purchase. Doesn't quite seem right.

2Many, I do not really mean lazy in an offensive way. If it is still not clear, I would be happy to explain further,.. as long as anyone asking promises that they have read (slowly) the post I linked to first ;)

Hopefully, a question asked and answered in a Different way may clear it up?

If we haven't lost you, providencesparrow could you post your range info? I think it would be a really helpful discussion to consider your appliance and requirements for a compliant bs.

"See, if you had written that earlier,"

Well, this is a situation where people think about this issue from many different directions...

The "if you hide the combustible with something else, we can forget it is there" approach is only one of many that comes up.

Or the "it LOOKS really close to combustibles... even though I have no idea what the BTU uput of the back "simmer" burners really is"

Or "I see this commercial range thing in Houzz photos all the time with no backguard interfering with the pretty backsplash, so it must be OK"

.

And MANY people want to know WHY.

"Or are you trying to simply say that a non-tiled wall is as safe as a tiled one?"

Another way to put it...

A range needs to be "listed and labeled" by an independent testing laboratory for domestic use before the IRC will allow it in your kitchen. The "Listing and Labeling" includes the installation instructions. The installation instructions have clearances that must be met. (all ranges have unique specs) Those clearances are ALWAYS to COMBUSTIBLE materials.(at a distance that should not allow the combustible surfaces to get hotter than 194°F under normal use) As long as you follow them and don't put Styrofoam, cardboard or Balsa Wood behind the range, you are fine (general flame spread index for ALL wall coverings)... tile and cement board will not change the clearances.

.

The problem with trying to tell you what you CAN do in a blanket statement is that I would now have to list many other products (and other exceptions) that you could not use to make the statement accurate.

Sure. All sorts of assumptions can be made. That is why I was pushing for a clear concise statement. Which you did provide, a few posts down the road.

But, just to beat a dead horse, :-),

that first post you linked to was an thread about commercial ranges.

One of the questions there you addressed:

"Could you cut out the lath&plaster and replace it with cement board?"

No. The entire wall assembly has to be noncombustible. No wood studs.

So there^^, it sounds like you are saying - since you are linking from THIS post - that no wood studs are allowed behind a range.

The next post is:

Commercial kitchens have tiled wall behind stoves all the time it is the easiest thing to keep clean . Every kitchen i have ever worked in had tile behind the stove

Your response:

You can put as much tile behind the range as you want, but you still must use the riser/backguard if the wall is built with wood studs.

This normally applies to appliances referred to as "Ranges" and "Rangetops", but usually does not apply to "cooktops".

Again, does that apply to THIS thread too?

The thread goes on and on and ON, and actually gets a bit rude, so I just thought that it was not really a helpful thread to link in here, that would help the OP or any of the questions posted here.

THAT was my point. Clearly, you do have a lot of useful knowledge about this subject. It would be more useful to others, if it were presented in a more straightforward, and clear manner.

"it sounds like you are saying - since you are linking from THIS post - that no wood studs are allowed behind a range." - that is, IF you are trying to get away with NOT using the removable backguard, and just trying to use the "island trim" up against a back wall.

Milly-"The backgaurd is usually a certain depth. It's just a spacer." -- It is a highly technical and LISTED assembly that provides an air cooling gap between the backguard and combustible wall, similar to what IRC G2409.2 would require.

"Again, does that apply to THIS thread too?" -- It does as long as we do not know what type of range this OP is using.

"The thread goes on and on and ON, and actually gets a bit rude,..." -- unfortunately, they all do because (some) people would rather believe the pretty pictures instead of what the NFPA/ANSI says,.. and do not want to take the time to understand it.

"It would be more useful to others, if it were presented in a more straightforward, and clear manner." -- I wish it were as easily done as said. The only real straight forward approach seems to be starting with the exact make and model of range being used in the specific instance.

"instead of what the NFPA/ANSI says,.. and do not want to take the time to understand it."

That is untrue. That is the reason this thread has gone on and on so that is proof of that. We (and I do mean WE) absolutely want to understand. Frankly, eliminating commercial ranges right off the bat would have been one way to do that. You could have done that in one brief sentence.

Honestly, It doesn't seem that you are understanding my point so apparently I am wasting my time trying to explain further. :-(

"and I do mean WE" - I was only referring to the people who have actually argued that logic on some of the threads where I have tried to explain this.

"Frankly, eliminating commercial ranges right off the bat would have been one way to do that." - not really, all ranges have clearance requirements. The commercial style ranges are just the more extreme examples. We do not even know if the OP is using induction or plain electric.

Even this cooktop has clearance requirements, and putting tile on the wall does not mean that you could shove it back closer to the wall.

Nor does it mean that not putting tile on a combustible wall requires a further distance.

"It doesn't seem that you are understanding my point" - Okay, so what are you saying? Just spit it out... apparently you want me to make it so simple that there is one rule for everything when we do not even know what range the OP is using? Not going to happen. All that I can do is explain what the codes mean and how the ANSI standards and installation instructions work together to make a unique set of rules (clearances) for each unique appliance.

It's a high performing spacer that does reduce the distance to combustible surfaces, but you also have the option of pulling the range out from the wall (if you wanted to).

I suspect that in those $$$ kitchens with "professional" ranges without backguards, they just toss in a few metal studs behind the cement fiberboard/tile.

At least that's what I hope.

"All that I can do is explain what the codes mean "

That was all that was asked.

So, now we are back to you having some sort of problem with the inconvenience of having to read the same explanations on the other thread? I can not get any more specific until the OP reveals the model of range that is being used.

"I can not get any more specific until the OP reveals the model of range that is being used."

Yeah you just want to pretend to be obtuse, then okay. I know you aren't. I'm calling it a day. :-)

Op here. Oh my, certainly didn’t mean to cause a stir. Thank you for taking time to reply. Truly appreciate all the input and advice. Appreciate very much the lovely photos posted to help give me ideas on how it would look. We have not started the build yet, and unfortunately range has yet to be decided. Definitely will not be a slide in stove/oven combo like a few photos above featured. It will be a gas rangetop, as double wall ovens will be elsewhere in kitchen. Do like the ceramic tile that look like beadboard! Didn’t know there even was such a thing! You guys are so awesome about teaching me new things every day! Also took the time to read the post regarding unhappy with beadboard due to clean up. That’s made me think a bit more on this. Very much appreciate each of your responses!

I wanted to come back and finish responding (had to go tuck some kiddos into bed first). Thanks again everyone for taking the time to respond. I regret that I couldn't be more specific with the stove make and model yet. Like i said above, it will be gas and will be a drop in type stovetop with no oven on bottom. Either way, apparently I need to be very aware of safety issues in whatever I place behind the stove area. Thank you for making me aware of this issue.

LuckyBlueEyes- I love your beadboard. How perfectly lovely. Thanks for sharing. Do you find that you have issues with clean up around your stove ore sink area specifically? If you don't mind sharing- did you use the thinner veneer like Milley was refering to?

Milley Ray- I'm interested in your suggestion of going with the thinner veneer idea. I would have thought everyone would steer me towards using top of the line "real" bead board, but you have a great point about the thinner grooves with the thinner material. Surely this would be easier on my budget too? (so few things are!) Have you ever worked with this thinner mdf or veneer product? Is it realistic looking (I will be painting it)

Ultimately after reading suggestions today and seeing the photo ideas, I am more leaning towards doing a coordinating (subtle) tile behind stove and doing beadboard elsewhere. I might have to post in the future once I narrow down selections and get more advice on how to pull this look off as seamless as possible. I feel like this tile behind stove/beadboard elsewhere idea would be easy to "mess up" in the looks department.

I haven't read all the responses, but the way I understand Fred is:

Tile or metal sheet or whatever isn't "safer" than simple painted drywall, beadboard, whatever; and

You need to look at what distances your specific range requires.

[so it could be that you have a high powered commercial range that you can NOT put against a tiled wall or you can have a range that's just fine against beadboard.

Providence, I stuck some of the fake stuff on my wall because there was some damaged backsplash tile and I wanted it to look better. (It was scrap.) It cleans easily, and there ARE smaller historical beadboards like it that were usually used in kitchens and similar areas. So pick the triple whammy of looking great, fitting the room, and being easy to clean.

Just FYI, and because anything worth doing is worth discussing correctly, beadboard has a bead, as in the panels below. Shiplap is featured in the image you posted. Your thread has been hijacked by others. When you’ve had time to think more about it, feel free to start a new thread.

That's what I have now. Very easy to clean.

nosoccermom, good succinct summary. Thumbs up. :-)

eam44, I apologize to anyone that feels I may have "hijacked" the thread. Was not my intention at all. Hopefully some are now better informed on this particular issue. I know I am. :-)

providencesparrow, please do update us with what direction you take, and post pictures!

"I suspect that in those $$$ kitchens with "professional" ranges without backguards, they just toss in a few metal studs behind the cement fiberboard/tile." -- The clearance requirement is usually greater than 6". Technically, on a 2×4 wall, with a metal stud as a thermal bridge, the OTHER side of the wall would also have to be cement board...

Now that Chess has tried to make everything clear as mud ;) the OP still seams confused.

"Either way, apparently I need to be very aware of safety issues in whatever I place behind the stove area." - It is not about "whatever" you place behind, but maintaining the clearance DISTANCES mandated in the installation instructions, regardless of which material you use as a surface treatment to the wood studs. It makes no difference "what", be it shiplap, beadboard, drywall, stainless steel, or tile.

I'm doing induction so I haven't looked at installation instructions, but you could still swing it on many exterior wall assemblies. Scary thought, though.

How about this for OP: if you can put tile there, you can put beadboard there.

If you are using a "drop in" like the picture I posted about 13 posts ago, it is a good idea to use a 4" granite backsplash (if your counter is the same granite) at the base of the wall, and then beadboard above it. This is only for the brief occasion when someone accidentally pushes a pan or griddle back too far and scorches the wall. It is also a more cohesive look than "tile behind stove/beadboard elsewhere idea would be easy to "mess up" in the looks department." IMO.

If you are doing a "RANGEtop", then it is most likely that you will need to use the 6"? tall "backguard" rather than pull the range out 6" or more from the wall.... Or they make higher backguard with shelves... either will help with cleaning.

"How about this for OP: if you can put tile there, you can put beadboard there." - except for some Rangetops that have an actual BBQ grill accessory, where I have seen the installation instructions require both a Distance and tile or stainless.

“- It is not about "whatever" you place behind, but maintaining the clearance DISTANCES mandated in the installation instructions, regardless of which material you use “

ohhhhhhh yep, I sure was confused until I read this sentence ^^^ thank you Fred! Actually hadn’t thought of that safety benefit of the few inches of counter surface extended up the wall. Had assumed that the greatest benefit would be to protect beadboard from moisture damage, wasn’t aware of added safety feature it could potentially provide.

Thank you all for sharing ideas/clarifying/discussing this w me!

Chess- no apology needed! i appreciate that GW is the exchange of ideas, information and opinions and we are all here to learn, even when we learn something unexpected. So much of my experience w GW can be summed up with “I didn’t know what I didn’t know!” :)

Providencesparrow - I installed beadboard for our backsplash last March. I love it. It's easy to wipe down as I used a Semi Gloss paint. I installed a narrow one inch trim along the edge of the counter. Behind the sink we installed a narrow strip of granite as the window sits very low to the counter. It is an MDF product. I'll try to find the link but it came from Home Depot in 32" length, and was about 6" wide. It was easy to work with though I did have to dig through their shelf to find packages that didn't have dinged ends. The tongue and grooves were messed up on a few packages.

This is the product I used: https://www.homedepot.com/p/9-3-8-sq-ft-Cape-Cod-MDF-Wainscot-Planks-8203045/202075055

The planks are 32" x 7". Six planks per package. I like the planks as they are so much more manageable when marking outlet cuts and just in general not so unwieldy, especially when you're dealing with bending over the counter to install. They are smooth and painted easily since they are primed. Just keep checking for plumb every plank. I used a nail gun and a little caulk.

Prairie mom- how pretty! Thank you for sharing your personal pic. What a sweet kitchen with such a beautiful view out that window! Thanks for showing me the light colored granite w the white beadboard. That helps me get an idea how my space will look w that color combo.