trying to understand new tax plan
8 years ago
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Newbie trying to understand types of roses
Comments (24)Nvsravank if you are a newbie I would really suggest visiting the Rose Organics forum. But I really truly believe that MichaelG is like the total expert! when it comes to both organic and synthetic fungicides and insecticides. He has knowledge of both. Perhaps you can email him if you get stuck on specifics? Also the internet is a very powerful tool in terms of looking up toxicity reports. About organic fungicides (potassium bicarbonates), they are much! safer than synthetics in terms of application timing. You have to wear overalls gloves goggles and other protective gear when applying synthetic fungicides. Mancozeb is safe to bees, but you have to wear protective gear when applying. Bayer Rose and Ornamental Spray is toxic to bees upon application according to the instructions: Bayer fungicide and the bees The organic Neem oil does not! work as a fungicide. It is an insecticide. It will kill bees if you accidentally spray a bee. It is very! safe for humans but when the bee brings too much contaminated pollen to the hive, it can make them sluggish and very disoriented. This is not a good thing. If you decide to use Neem oil, I would urge you to only spray in the late evening when the sun has gone down; bees are very hard workers and will be there at crack of dawn. Neem oil requires a drying time of 4 hours to be "safe" for the bees. I think there are better alternatives to Neem but unlike most people, I am content to live with a bunch of holes in my rose leaves so long as I still get huge lovely blooms! I just let the spideys do all the hard work for me and spray my blooms with hot wax pepper spray to protect against thrips. Next year I'm going to use Milky Spore as a preventative against Japanese Beetles thanks to this forum's input. I don't have JBs yet, but I do know that JeffAurora in New Jersey has a battle with a few JBs. He has drop-dead GORGEOUS roses. This is JEFF'S Julia Child which you are choosing. The huge downer news is that organic fungicides can't battle BS in rainy climates and where you don't get as much sunlight. I hear that New Jersey is Blackspot territory. I use Greencure fungicide and spray like a maniac with the Greencure even before the first spring leaf unfolds, but Greencure can only keep the roses exposed to blazing sunlight clear from the blackspot. My shade-growing roses are a disaster zone. Blackspot loves! the shade. Be sure your roses get full open sunlight, it will make your battle against BS less maddening! Karl Bapst and Jim1961 also use sea tea as a foliage spray/ buffer against blackspot. Jim's roses have not gotten any yet, Lucky Jim, unlike his blackspot ridden neighbors! He uses DrammaticK. His roses get both East and West sun (full exposure) and the DrammaticK (which uses unprocessed pure fish oils) so I am thinking that those 2 factors are really helping him out. Besides the organics/fungicide consideration, there are a few things you will need to do-- a soil analysis on the content of your soil. Then you need to amend your soil with goodies like compost, nursery manure, etc. Healthy soil means healthy roses that can survive insect and fungus attacks. And as Karl, my likewise favorite expert, says-- hybrid teas are HEAVY FEEDERS!!!! Mvrasank, you will be very! happy with Double Delight and Fragrant Cloud in terms of hardiness, easy-to-care, and great fragrance. Plus they are prolific! bloomers. I have FC and love its health! You have made excellent choices for those 2. I love my Tiffany too. It is supposed to be "disease-resistant". So far it's living up to the "healthy" classification. I love her perfume but my favorite of all fragrances is Mr. Lincoln--in my opinion he beats all the Austins at my local nursery and all the hybrid teas I've smelled and the floribundas, but sadly, he gets a bum rap from tons of people here because he is too tall and lanky. Tall you can't control, but you can! have fat bushy Lincolns--I feed mine with Gardenville Sea Tea to make them fat!...See MoreTax credit extension for those trying to meet 6/30 deadline!
Comments (14)President Approves Extension Of Closing Deadline For Home Tax Credit by JACOB GAFFNEY Homebuyers will have an extra three months to qualify for the tax credit on transactions already under contract, with passage of an extension that also covers deals that just missed the June 30 deadline. In addition to first-time buyers, homeowners with at least five years in their current home are eligible for the credit on purchase of a new residence. See the following article from HousingWire for more on this. President Barack Obama this morning signed HR 5623, the "Homebuyers Assistance and Improvement Act of 2010," a three-month extension on the closing deadline for first-time home buyers to receive the tax credit. Potential homeowners with offers currently under contract now have until September 30 to close the deal, instead of the original June 30 deadline. The tax credit remains at a maximum $8,000. The Senate approved the bill late Wednesday evening, a day after it passed the House of Representatives. A copy of the HR 5623 can be downloaded here. The bill is worded to retroactively include properties that closed in the last two days. According to the Internal Revenue Service , besides providing a tax benefit to first-time homebuyers and purchasers who havenÂt owned homes in recent years, the law also allows a long-time resident of the same main home to claim the credit if they purchase a new principal residence. To qualify, eligible taxpayers must show that they lived in their old homes for a five-consecutive-year period during the eight-year period ending on the purchase date of the new home....See MoreTrying to understand wet venting
Comments (6)Do not be discouraged because you read the IRC but still do not understand venting..In the Plumbing Apprenticeship you have to work 40hrs/wk under a Master Plumber + attend college or Tech School two nights a week for four years. During that four year training period the only text book you use is the Plumbing Code and perhaps 60% of that classroom time is spent learning the finer points of venting and even after all of that, when you get out into the real world you soon learn that it still comes down to the inspectors interpretation of the code. Before we begin I would like to correct one item in your post. You stated that under the IRC an 1-1/2" fixture arm may be 3' 6". Under the UPC an 1-1/2" fixture arm may run 3' 6" but under the IRC an 1-1/2" may run up to 6', but be careful here. Under the IRC the maximum length of a fixture arm may be calculated by dividing the pipe diameter by the pitch. If you have the line run at the code standard 1/4" per foot an 1-1/2" fixture arm could be up to 6', but if you inadvertantly run the line with a 1/2" per foot pitch the maximum length would then be 4'. "The rule is that the top of the pipe at the vent opening may not be higher than the bottom of the pipe at the trap weir." I have attached a drawing that may help you understand wet venting. Starting at the top notice the index "VTR" meaning Vent to Roof. The black line coming down from the roof vent is a "Dry Vent" Now note the lavatory fixture arm (shown in red). I have shown this line with a horizontal offset, which is common when there is a window over the lav. Under the IRC a lav trap & drain is 1-1/4 however since the lav is the only fixture in a residential structure that is permitted an 1-1/4 drain most plumbers use the code option which will allow us to increase the drain size and/or trap one nominal trade size, which would then be 1-1/2". This not only allows us another foot of working length, it precludes the necessity of maintaining an inventory of 1-1/4 pipe & fittings. Also note that the maximum distance is not the physical distance from the trap to the vent but rather it is the TDL, Total Developed Length of pipe between those two points. (Some hard nose inspectors will make you compute both the lenght of the pipe and the fitting allowances, by example, the fitting allowance for an 1-1/2" quarter bend is .6ft of pipe.) Now note where the fixture arm connects to the vent pipe. From that junction down to the vented branch that line is a combined waste & vent (shown in light blue). The advantage here is that a dry vent may not have a horizontal offset once it is below a line which is 6" higher than the highest fixture served by the vent, but the combined waste & vent may have an unlimited horizontal offset, understanding of course that if the total length of the vent exceeds 40' you must increase the vent by one nominal trade size. From the point where the combined waste & vent attaches to the branch drain, all portions of the branch drain downstream of that connection is defined as a "Vented Branch" (shown in Dark Blue). The fixture arms for the tub and shower may then "Wet Vent" off the "vented Branch drain however, note the SHWR in the drawing is on the upstream side of the vent connection to the branch drain. In this case the maximum length of the shower is computed as the TDL from the SHWR trap to the vent opening. Now note the 3" line to the WC. Under the IRC a 3" line may run a maximum of 12' from the trap weir to the vent opening, but there is an exception in the code that states, if a WC is the only fixture served by that 3" line the length is unlimited. (In fact, a WC will flush better if there is a long line from the WC to the vent.)...See MoreHow will he next tax law effect your renovation plans? Business?
Comments (28)Kitasel, I agree that all personal deductions should have been eliminated. Itemized deductions always favor some groups over other groups and that is why I find them to be discriminatory by nature. I too,am on the metro north line and we never had the devaluation of equity that most of the country had in 2008. Getting rid of property tax deductions is maybe just finally righting the over inflated property costs in the NYC, Boston and San Fran markets. It is more than supply and demand, these markets are bubbles and their burst will open up opportunities for less fortunate people to finally enjoy owning in these areas as well perhaps, or at least I can hope it does. Again I am fiscally hurt by the 10k cap aswell but compared to the other real issues with the bill this is nothing to complain about. The tax brackets going down by significant percentages in upper middle and upper classes is what I find horrendous about this bill. Not the fact that these same groups, of which I belong, now have to pay on their property wealth and property additions... Taxes for many of us are too low and if we want better futures for our kids it is time we admit it and stop looking for breaks. I dislike this bill because it lowered taxes over all not because it did away with a few luxury deductions like expensive houses and extensions....See More- 8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
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