I took a stab at this, for what it's worth (use some imagination, please! ;D ). Apologies, white window frames didn't turn out well since this was a B&W sketch. I guessed at the roof, trying to get close to inspiration photo. Do you have a specific shingle color picked out? And I didn't know what you planned for garage door off to far left, so just filled in with red temporarily (can change that). Also, front door color left me puzzled. A muted mustard didn't look too bad, but for now pretend that's stained wood. ;D If you offer specifics on roof, etc. I can further tweak it. Working on taxes, will check in as I get a chance later. Your inspiration photo:

I did ask the Lowe's guy what had to be done around the sink to support the weight and he said nothing for a ss, they just glue it on. Not true. Fabrication guidelines are to use mounting brackets with non solid surfaced integrated sinks. There sink is bonded to the sheet stock with silicone but mounting brackets must be used. Sales people should never be taken at their word about installation matters. Some are outright liars, some are well meaning but clueless. I recently had a salesman try to tell me that gas ovens dry out food because electric is moist heat and gas is dry.He walked away when I asked if he'd like to put money on it. He was also the one that told me the Kitchenaid doesn't make a 24" wall oven. I told him to Google it. A very nice but clueless saleswomen did not know how to read dimensions on a hood I inquired about. Had absolutely NO clue what height width and depth were. Sad but true. A heating guy at a trade show told me I would have damp floors if I put in hydronic radiant. LOL Dark solid surface will show scratches as white. Matte surfaces are recommended for kitchen counter tops, never hi gloss. You could go with a semi gloss if the counter is a light patterned one. While I'm at it the substrate should never be solid in a kitchen application. The runner a runner method should be used and all seamed areas should have additional support. Don't think of solid surface as just Corian. There are at least a dozen manufacturers of solid surface out there. Formulas are very similar. Take a look at Avonite,Swanstone,Hi-Macs,LivingStone,Wilsonart's Gibraltor and Formica brand solid surface. The bottom line is not the material but the fabricator.

Yes. Maybe medium gray on the roof. As for the paint, all the houses on my street that have been repainted recently are various shades of grey. I was hoping to not be exactly like everyone else which is why the shade of blue. We are in the western half of Washington state so generally mild weather with clouds but we don't have AC so maybe not such a dark roof. I agree gray would be the better choice though. (Although smoky summers might mean we need to consider getting AC.)

eam44 is on point with the relaminating. My niece did this herself - not difficult at all. She got one air bubble when she first did it and one of her friends who does construction had her iron it out (Yes - using a household iron). Hasn't had a problem in 5 years and looks so much better than her old harvest gold laminate top. You can also recolor the grout. You have to scrub it to remove all the grease and grime and then paint the grout lines and wipe the paint off the tiles. I had one spot in my kitchen where the paint lifted after several months - right in front of the stove. I did it again - cleaning more thoroughly and concentrating on getting every bit of grease off the grout and it didn't come off again. Sold a couple of years later. I really think your big offender in this room is the counter top. As other's have said you can remove the backsplash, but I would take care of the counter top first. HD has 1200 color and pattern choices: https://www.homedepot.com/b/Kitchen-Countertops-Laminate-Sheets/N-5yc1vZc3b5?experienceName=inspirational&Ns=P_Topseller_Sort%7C1 You will need to carefully pick a white, if you choose white, so that you don't make your floors scream pink. They are actually not pink, but appear pink because they are a very light taupe. Taupe and yellow whites, beige whites or orange beige whites don't play well together. I know - I had light taupe tile throughout my last home (1700 sf of light taupe tile). Picked taupe for the walls and had a lot of gray greens, deep forest greens and deep burgundy colors that worked very well with the taupe. I owned nothing that was tan or yellow beige. As for the green paint - you may have gone a bit too saturated - a bit more grayish green - take a look at SW Seasalt or BM Beach Glass. It may look gray against your green, but is a really good saturation point for colored walls. Hundreds of square feet of color on a wall means you don't need as much color - a little more subdued works better with this large amount of space.and will work better with your tile. If you have a spare tile left from when it was installed take it outside on a clear day between noon and 2:00 in the afternoon and look at it next to the counter samples and paint samples to see how they play together. You can really see the colors better in the sunlight. Taupe also works best with 5000 k daylight light bulbs.