Landscaping and care of a 5.5 acre pine wood lot?
sraymer33
6 years ago
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sraymer33
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoRelated Discussions
Half acre in VA: is pine straw my best weed barrier?
Comments (15)I've cut enough grass for a lifetime, I'd like to find an alternative besides letting the natural plants return. Well...have you thought about hiring a kid to mow the lawn? Seriously.If you have enough sun for grass, grass will grow. If you don't, it won't...and then you'll have something else to think about. I had a customer in the GC three weeks ago who had just "cleared his woods" but didn't know what to put in place of the scrub and brush he'd removed. Wanted enough English Ivy for 3/4 of an acre. yeah. After I picked my jaw up off the floor I explained that EI would make him miserable...poison ivy would infiltrate it...honeysuckle would infiltrate it...not to mention the mess it makes when it goes up trees. I convinced him not to plant that. Then he asked about vinca. I told him vinca was a better choice, but with 3/4 of an acre of high shade and a reasonably level lot he could do better than 3/4 of an acre of vinca minor. (He'd still have honeysuckle and PI issues...plus English Ivy that the birds would plant...) I then suggested he call a landscape designer or architect and figure out what would make his woodland garden beautiful. I'm hoping he took my advice. Yes, I lost (perhaps) a major vinca sale. But I'm hoping I saved a property owner some heartache....See MoreCare to share your 2006 garden landscape images? (Photo's)
Comments (27)Looks like Virginia Creeper ( Parthenocissus quinquefolia) by the leaves. Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata) has ivy shaped leaves. they're both nice, but invasive as hell. My neighbour planted some Virginia creeper on our shared fence about five years ago and for the past two years I've been trying to get rid of it on my side - it gets into my pots in the summer and generally takes over. A place up the street had to do some extensive work around the windows and roof a few years ago because some Boston Ivy had damaged the wood and water had been getting in. I wouldn't put it anywhere near a house - just in case. Take a look at Parthenocissus henryana, aka Silvervein Creeper. Supposedly it is not as invasive as the other two but it still has the beautiful fall colour and has nicer leaves during the summer (in my opinion anyway). It might not be hardy in an exposed location though - we're kind of at the northern end of its possible range :-( BP...See MoreTall, skinny pine trees for landscaping
Comments (8)Pine plantations & reforestation in this area typically starts with a fairly dense planting density. Proper management would require a couple of thinnings at multi-decade intervals until only 1/3 of the trees were left. By thinning, the health of the remaining trees is vastly improved and allows them to continue to grow without changing the telephone pole characteristic of the forest. That forest looks about the right age and density to be ready for another cut. That forest is Red Pine...it works with White Pine too but they don't self prune quite as well as Red Pine and cast a lot more shade so the undergrowth can be a bit spartan....See MoreRemoving leaves in about 2 acres of heavy woods
Comments (16)I'm going to respond a little out of order, sorry! @Christopher CNC, it's not so much that it HAS to be removed first, it's more that I'm hoping to do as much of it as I can during the summer so that by time I can cut the trees, I won't be overwhelmed with so much more work that I won't get to plant the trees. Outdoor projects like this is my stress relief from work, so if I can spend an hour or two every day doing something that would make my life easier later then it's a good way to spend my time :-) And, of course, if I remove it all now then when animals (snakes, mice, bugs, etc) are looking for a place to hibernate, they'll move on out instead of being in the way when I'll be working. Copperheads are relatively common in my area, so I'd like to avoid them if I can! LOL I had cleared out a smaller section last year for light gardening this year (peppers, tomatoes, spinach, etc), and while I was hauling thatch to dump in the woods (not in the area I'm clearing!) over the weekend I found that the leaves were about up to my knees. It's a culmination, though, of 15+ years of leaves falling from the trees in the woods plus the leaves being blown in to it. I didn't go super deep in to the woods, but I'm hoping that it won't be as deep once I get in there a little. This smaller section had 8 saplings that I cut down last year, then dug up the stumps this year. That was some work, but greenbrier and poison ivy were the bigger problems... especially since, as I've gotten older, I can look at poison ivy and get a rash! Which is very weird because it never affected me at all as a kid. But anyway, I know that they'll both be a problem for awhile, so my thought process is: 1. get rid of the trees I don't want; 2 dig up the stumps that are immediately in the way; 3. plant new trees; and 4. spend the rest of my days dealing with greenbrier, poison ivy, and digging up the other stumps @frankielynnsie, in an ideal world I much prefer to spend time digging up the roots rather than using chemicals, especially if it's near an area that I'm planning to grow food! So far, all of the briers I've chased down have been fairly easy to dig up because the ground stays wet and loose, but I'll keep that in mind if it gets out of hand :-) With all of that said, though... @Embothrium, now THAT was scary!! LOL My cleared land is relatively small. I mentioned before that I have 5 acres, and they cleared 1 acre in the middle to build the house. So that 1 acre is the back yard, the house itself, garage, driveway, and front yard. So the front MIGHT be 1/2 of an acre, but it's probably closer to 1/3. Plus, the front yard has 5 large trees in it now (I cut down 1 red oak in March, now it has 3 oak, 1 beech, and 1 birch), so I'll be near a stump no matter what. Worse, it's definitely not 100' from one section of heavy woods to the other, so if there's fungus in there then it could reach my new trees no matter where I put them! As I'm reading about Armillaria root rot, though, I think that I would see symptoms of it while cutting down trees. And it appears to require consistently wet soil, so maybe clearing out the leaves and smaller trees would dry out and kill any fungus? I hate to keep pushing things off, but maybe I should clear off the trees and leaves, then let it sit and dry for a year? Or, I could always rent a tractor, push off the top layer of soil, then import a few truckloads of healthy top soil? That would be a lot more money than intended, but it would have the added benefit of me not having to deal with stumps and other debris (at least, mostly). I know that I'm not going to get any fruit or anything for 7-10 years... I turn 46 this year, and I want to get all of the hard work done while I'm physically able! Both of my parents were disabled and unable to work by 50, and while I'm much healthier than either of them were at my age, I still know that my clock is ticking. I hate that I pushed this off from last year, and I'm not thrilled about pushing it off for another year... but if I rush it and none of the trees survive then it will be even worse to try to start over in 2-3 years :-/...See Moresraymer33
6 years agosraymer33
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