It sort of looks like the my broken pump. What doesn't look right are the two prongs sticking out of the side and the plug isn't flat like mine. Plus it the specs doesn't say it's a low voltage 12 volt pump. I'm thinking Rio doesn't make low voltage pumps any longer. I spent an hour looking on the web and could only find one internet site that carried a different brand of 12 volt pumps, so I ordered it. When it gets here I'll then try to figure out how to connect it up. Hopefully the plug looks the same as the one I have... This is what I ordered: Here is a link that might be useful: 12 volt pump

Over the years, we have constructed plant boxes from both redwood and cedar and in every instance, even with multiple coats of sealer, the wood rotted. We finally just gave up and searched out heavy vinyl planters with attached wells to use as liners, then made wood boxes to fit around them. It's worked out very well too. I can lift them out to clean or restain the wood and because the entire plant comes with it, it leaves me free to scrub out the wood, let it get completely dry, then retouch or even restain the entire box, without messing with the plant or soil. But if you want a very large or special size and can't find a ready made vinyl liner to suit, I would agree with the suggestion regarding rubber roof lining. Another product that might work is the rubberized sealer made for below grade foundations. It brushes on, so you could seal every speck of the interior and not have to deal with folding the heavy rubber fabric, or nails to hold it in place.

they're going to dig to the foundation seam and apply either Kryton or Xypex to it. I'm not clear what you mean by seam. Is it where the foundation wall meets the floor--that's a joint? Or is it at the top--IOW, the sill? In either case, crystalline waterproofing by itself is inadequate if the foundation is cracked or has holes. And these may be difficult to locate in case of an excavated foundation. Crystalline waterproofing seals hairline cracks--up to 1/64" in the caseXYPEX--so it should be used in conjunction with a barrier type waterproofing such as plastic membrane (which seals 1/4" cracks) or the old reliable messy but cheap fibrated asphalt and glass mesh. Peel and stick and spray applied solutions work best on new walls. Special attention should be paid to the "cold joint", where the wall meets the footing, for which there are specific sealants. Free-flowing aggregate along the wall would help drainage. But with a plastic membrane most builders do not consider it necessary. Excavation along the foundation will often reveal an obvious entry point (or points) to seal. Still, once the messy work of excavation has been completed, it makes sense to waterproof the entire wall or section.

Patti - If you printed with a regular inkjet printer, more than likely the ink will NOT be waterproof. Just try one... run some water on it and see what happens. If you still have the files of the hankerchief prints, you could put them on a CD and take them to a professional printshop. They'd be able to print them with a waterproof ink. You could still use the prints you've made as a wallpaper border if you use a NON-water-based adhesive... for example, rubber cement, or spray-on adhesive. Again, just try one of your prints first. (You don't need to ruin one of the handkerchief prints... just print something else using the same printer and use that as your trial.)