Dear Dr., I would suggest a strategy wait and see. How recent are the transplants into the ground? Is the soil amended with small wood chips/perlite to help with drainage? Are the plantings in a low area? Yellow leaves to me point to slowly draining soil or too much rain/watering. This past May I put a number of fruit trees in the ground, and had immediate concerns as well. I actually contacted my local county agricultural extension (usually connected to a university with a agricultural based program). In my state its Penn State. I would just google your county name and "agricultural extension". They have the info and wherewithal to diagnose your disease. They can even have a sample tested if need be. Usually, when I call, since I am not a commercial gardener, I speak to a master gardener. I have found them to be very helpful. To fill you in with what happened. I thought I had a fuji apple and 2 pears with fire blight. I emailed pictures to the master gardener and asked. He immediately replied and said that it did not look like fire blight. He also informed me that most trees go through an adjustment phase where the newly transplanted roots cannot keep up with the demands of the quickly growing tree. Consequently, there is leaf loss and the tree is more susceptible to disease. I'm telling you I kept my receipts close, because I really thought this tree was going to die. 100% of the leaves were affected. I was thinking to myself, how is this tree going to photosynthesize with no leaves? My only solace was that the tree trunk was a nice green color (like the variety standard) I waited a month or so, and since the damage to my leaves did not look insect related, I sprayed with Serenade, an organic multi purpose fungicide (from Fedco organic mail order). Now since it has been quite rainy and damp in PA this year, it seems to wash off in the rain soon after I apply it. However, whether it has been me suppressing the infection with Serenade, or the trees have overcome the transplant shock, the leaf tips on the branches are budding out again with good, healthy leaves. I believe all of the original leaves are going to die, but not before bring replaced with new ones. My suggestion: take some pics and call the master gardener. They have seen most diseases and can step you through a treatment. Read up on the various diseases of your trees during the winter and order products mail order (since some of the products will not be available locally-I have gotten many an odd looking for organic products at the local Lowes). If you are going fungicidal route, I think most are broad spectrum- suppress or kill a variety of types. I really like Fedco to order supplies from, they are organic (for me a plus), they are an honest company, they ship quick. They also carry broad spectrum products Spinosad/ Monterey Garden spray for insects and Serenade, fungal supressant/fungicide Read up: I know fire blight is the kiss of death in Pennsylvania for apple and pear right when the first buds emerge in spring- transmitted by pollinators, so I am trying to devise a plan to cover them (?) in the spring. Not 100% sure of what to do, but thinking about it now so I won't be caught by surprise in the spring. I see you have a honeycrisp, you may be facing the same issue. Here is a link that might be useful: VA agricultural extension links on the right

I'd try fertilizing half of them, see what that does. I always just go ahead and soak the roots with my diluted fertilizer mix; my understanding is, as long as you have the right ratio of water to fertilizer, the amount of fertilizer+water that you add doesn't matter. For example, I fertilize with fish emulsion. I measure the tablespoon or whatever of emulsion in the gallon jug of water, mix, and then I pour it in a seedling flat and bottom water as I normally would. Once the cups are good and heavy/full of water, I take them out. I usually rotate several flats of seedlings through that one batch of fertilizer+water until it's all been soaked up (in the course of a couple of hours, I don't let it sit around or anything, stinky!!). Hope that helps, someone else chime in if I'm incorrect in my thinking.

if you are for real, pls don't buy your girlfriend jewelry at this early date. It's too pushy. it puts too much of a burden on her. it's only 1 week, for heaven's sake! buy her flowers for $8, or just be so obviously happy to be with her, and treat her well. I would freak out bigtime if some guy I'd been dating for a week bought me jewelry. Esp. if it was gold, but even if it was a costume piece.

They are usually called "big round" bales. We used to bale this way, but we have gone to "big square" bales, as they are easier to stack high. We also bale regular square bales - those are the smaller ones that you can pick up by hand. My 16 year old DD does the small square baling! We also bale brome hay. When it is cut is called "swathing" or "mowing". It is layed in "windrows" by the swather. The baler moves over these and rolls it up into bales, or packs it into squares. In our big square bales, the hay is actually cut into small pieces as it is baled up. That way we can break the bale open and put it in a feed mixer wagon with corn, corn silage, and protein, to make a "ration" to feed cattle with. We also bale some alfalfa. You get several "cuttings" from alfalfa. Alfalfa is a high protein hay. It is usually a 99% guarantee that if you have hay down - it will rain, LOL! If it rains on it or it is very damp out, we "rake" the hay. It rolls the windrows over so they can dry better. I rake hay sometimes.